alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial second generation penn gear sleeves (updated february 2015)
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
June 16, 2021, 08:15:05 AM *
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Author Topic: second generation penn gear sleeves (updated february 2015)  (Read 82212 times)
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Jakejames
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« Reply #60 on: July 09, 2016, 03:27:14 PM »

Hi Alan I was wondering if I could get in on this an place an order for a 6/0 stainless steel sleeve. Hope im not too late!
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #61 on: July 09, 2016, 04:55:39 PM »

Hi Jake, you are not too late. The problem is that we are waiting on parts from the machinist. We are small hobbiest compared to the large companies.  We tend to take a back seat at times. Please be patient as we are. Thank you.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
Jakejames
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« Reply #62 on: July 09, 2016, 10:33:03 PM »

Thanks Bryan! I'm definitely willing to wait. As of right now is there an estimated time line?
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sdlehr
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« Reply #63 on: July 17, 2016, 10:53:28 PM »

Hey guys, I'm having a problem. I picked up one of these 2nd generation SS sleeves from Keith for my 115 I'm hotrodding for shark fishing Daron style. The pin won't advance all the way and is rubbing on the bridge post - it looks like the pin hole was drilled just a hair too high - I can look through it and see just a tiny bit of the bridge post - where it is rubbing on the pin. I thought I had remembered this as a problem for one of the sleeves, but I looked it up and it was one of the Jigmaster sleeves.

Anyone else run into this?

Sid
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Sid Lehr
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« Reply #64 on: July 17, 2016, 11:19:06 PM »

PM answered Sid.

Keith

Chuck the sleeve in a cordless drill with the clutch all the way down. Put the sleeve on the bridge with a small round file in the sleeve hole. Spin it around a few times then put the file into the other side and repeat.
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sdlehr
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« Reply #65 on: July 18, 2016, 01:34:30 AM »

PM answered Sid.

Keith

Chuck the sleeve in a cordless drill with the clutch all the way down. Put the sleeve on the bridge with a small round file in the sleeve hole. Spin it around a few times then put the file into the other side and repeat.
Problem solved by filing a small spot on the pin to accommodate that part of the post that wasn't clearing. I didn't have a round file small enough to fit in the pin hole, but I used a rat tail file to file a small crescent out of the pin. It's purring like a kitten again with its double dogs, Adam's drag insert and Dom-Tom frame. I've got an aluminum spool on it's way and it'll be done. Pics coming on another thread when I have it finished.

Sid
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Sid Lehr
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swill88
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« Reply #66 on: July 18, 2016, 03:16:34 PM »

PM answered Sid.

Keith

Chuck the sleeve in a cordless drill with the clutch all the way down. Put the sleeve on the bridge with a small round file in the sleeve hole. Spin it around a few times then put the file into the other side and repeat.

Kieth... what size round file ?

Steve
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alantani
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« Reply #67 on: July 18, 2016, 03:57:20 PM »

I generally recommend filing flat about 60% of the retaining pin.
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« Reply #68 on: July 18, 2016, 04:16:34 PM »

Filing the pin is better in case you ever change sleeves. The file I use is just a tapered round file. It's just a faster way of doing it.
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mo65
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« Reply #69 on: July 27, 2016, 01:28:27 AM »

 I used this second generation sleeve with the steel/carbon fiber under gear set on my 309. I have the standard 3 stack inside the gear, so in essence, it's like the Newell four stack. This is an economical way to add a friction surface to your gear and pick up a few pounds of power, and this set up is smooth as Rico Suave. When you crank on that star and line is peeled off, and that gear spins on the sleeve, the steel washer on top of the ratchet provides a solid smooth bearing surface. The carbon fiber friction disc between that steel bearing and the gear is doing the same thing the ones inside the gear are doing. I think this is the cat's meow...I'd love to see this set up offered for the #5-60 gear. Cool
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Paulieboy73
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« Reply #70 on: March 03, 2017, 06:42:07 PM »

Hi...just wondering if the 4/0 kit is still available?
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alantani
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« Reply #71 on: March 04, 2017, 05:07:03 PM »

Yes, I'll get to your pm in just a bit! Grin
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wothoyt
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« Reply #72 on: April 28, 2021, 12:55:15 AM »

Hi Alan..  it's been a while.  I had to come back to the mainland for some new titanium body parts I couldn't get done in Hawaii.  Cheap Medicare! 

Ah well,  I need to ask for the low down on 349, Master Mariner, SS gear sleeve.  A 113H  gear sleeve and drill another pin hose is what I'm finding. 

Do you have a better ides?

Do you think anybody has a 3-sevens drag insert laying around they'd part with?

Good to be back in So Cal.  Good to be back on your site and getting my gear ready for the season.  I will be buying some goodies from all of your people.
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alantani
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« Reply #73 on: April 30, 2021, 03:08:18 AM »

I thought that the standard 98-349 gear sleeve for the 113h would be fine.  I'm not aware of a 7stack drag set for this reel,  but i doubt that it would be needed. 

Hope you have a quick recovery!!!!
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #74 on: April 30, 2021, 02:30:46 PM »

Hi Alan..  it's been a while.  I had to come back to the mainland for some new titanium body parts I couldn't get done in Hawaii.  Cheap Medicare! 

Ah well,  I need to ask for the low down on 349, Master Mariner, SS gear sleeve.  A 113H  gear sleeve and drill another pin hose is what I'm finding. 

Do you have a better ides?

Do you think anybody has a 3-sevens drag insert laying around they'd part with?

Good to be back in So Cal.  Good to be back on your site and getting my gear ready for the season.  I will be buying some goodies from all of your people.
Hi Hoyt,

I wasn't aware you were in Hawaii and no longer in SoCal.  Geez, Ti body parts?  I hope they can fix you up as good as new.  Take care and hope you can get back out on the water in short order.

Bryan
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
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