How many times on the dryer ?

[Marcq]

I always end up 3-4 times, must be doing something wrong 

Marc..

[Newell Nut]

Please explain your process and Jon or I will try to help.

[Keta]

Are you measuring carefully?

[Marcq]

Here's the scenario, first coat of epoxy not quite thick enough, second coat oops a little bubble there,  third coat, darn a hair. So even if it's only one guide that you screwed up, it's still as to go on the drier for another 5 hours

So my question is, how many time does you rod as to go on the dryer to complete the rod ? Can you do it in one application of epoxy ?

Marc..

[Bryan Young]

For me it's one coat.  I use a little heat to remove air bubbles.

[Marcq]

For me it's one coat.  I use a little heat to remove air bubbles.

That's pretty good, it never taking me less then two coats but often 3, not on everything, but even one little spot being fix  requires putting it back on the dryer

Marc..

[Newell Nut]

Go back to a Dec Post by Jon Vadney that explains how he applies finish and read carefully. If you do it his way which is pretty much my way as well you will not have problems.

I normally use two coats on threads and inlay work takes as many coats as necessary to round out the finish.

[thorhammer]

its a happy day when I get it in one coat. regardless of how careful you are in prep, there always seems to be a  burr from a thread end that pops up and needs to be shaved for second coat. the abnormally cold weather in the south weather this month is killling me also in trying to get it leveled out in one coat.

[Bryan Young]

There are several things to consider my one coat.

1)  Prep - For thread dust or thread burrs, I take an alcohol lamp and quickly singe the loose ends and that also usually takes care of the dust as well.  I also use thread preserver that fills in the little gaps that will appear like dimpling in the coat, and clean the blank with alcohol for better adhesion on the blank.

2) I spin the rod while coating and stop the spinning when adding coating around the guide feet, then continue to spin the rod.  While it's on the rod dryer and once all of the threads are coated, I use an alcohol lamp to add a little heat to the coating to release trapped air bubbles.  I sometime use moist are from my breath as that helps as well.

3) inspect the coating while on the dryer in the first 5 minutes and every 5-10 minutes thereafter for the next 30 minutes.  If there is any dimpling, I add additional coating as the threads are absorbing the coating.

Make sure you have good lighting too.  That will help identify areas of concerns early on.

Also, what is the speed of your dryer?  Too fast or too slow will have different effects on the levelness of the coating.

[Bryan Young]

Go back to a Dec Post by Jon Vadney that explains how he applies finish and read carefully. If you do it his way which is pretty much my way as well you will not have problems.

I normally use two coats on threads and inlay work takes as many coats as necessary to round out the finish.

Newell Nut, do you know where the link to this is?  I cannot seem to find it.

Found it.  Here you go.

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12361.0

[Marcq]

I have read the article before, didn't realize that him too can have his rod on the dryer many times

My dryer spins at 6rpm, maybe it's a bit slow, I also need better lighting my poor vision needs it  

Marc..

[thorhammer]

as my eyeballs have started to go in the past year, i have found that more light on the bench is crucial. i have two turners; one i built with a rheostat so i can apply and dry at two different speeds; the other is straight 9 rpm CRB from Mudhole. personally i think 9 is a bit fast and the flexcoat seems to migrate little more than at 5-6 rpm. as noted above you have to keep an eye on it and rebrush every thirty minutes or so.

back when i started 25 years I used to use two ton Devcon epoxy as it was readily available for $1.99 at walmart. i could get one coat level coverage with a Pvc chuck i built on a rotisserie motor. lasts forever but will yellow over time; actually gives a cool patina look over "old gold" thread wraps

PM me if you want and i can tell you how to build rheostat from a HD light switch for $20

[Bryan Young]

PM me if you want and i can tell you how to build rheostat from a HD light switch for $20

lalalalala...I didn't hear this....this completely goes again my profession (day job).

Light rheostats are designed for use with incandescent light bulbs, which is a completely different load than motors.

I would recommend a variable speed controller, like those used with routers.  The are like $30 and are designed for use with motor loads.  They have a 5-15P to plug into the wall and a 5-15R to plug in your AC motor.

[thorhammer]

hahhahha. true dat.....I had a real deal rheostat for controlling laboratory mixers (was my day job then) but it recently died on the vine and I had to do something quickly as it had a rod on it at the time.....thanks for the pointer; the old one I had would be couple of bills from Fisher Scientific.

[Newell Nut]

Another thing that will help the mix for less bubbles and better application is to warm the epoxy bottles in water before measuring. This makes it easier to draw out the parts in the syringe before putting the parts in the mixing cup. You can also add a few drops of DNA or xylene to thin the mix. With the thinner finish mix it soaks into the threads better and produces less bubbles and increases the application time so no big rush to get it on before it thickens. Total drying time may increase an hour or two.