New reel maintenance

Started by maka, March 12, 2015, 09:03:54 PM

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Slazmo

Quote from: maka on March 14, 2015, 11:34:26 AMhttp://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|10918|2303326|2303327&id=179641

Yes thats it. However at $7.41 please someone send me about 30 tubes!!!! Its $21 AUD here in Australia per tube...

maka

one more question..
what do you use to degrease the reel?I am a bit affraid to use something too strong,maybe I take off the decals on the outside of the reel.

maka

i have used some acetone,work's fine

Jerseymic

I use this, safe to use on plastics and no harmful fumes, kind on the hands as well.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/de-solv-it-contractors-solvent-degreaser5ltr/31181#product_additional_details_container

Don't know if it is available in Spain




maka

Quote from: Jerseymic on March 15, 2015, 08:15:12 PM
I use this, safe to use on plastics and no harmful fumes, kind on the hands as well.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/de-solv-it-contractors-solvent-degreaser5ltr/31181#product_additional_details_container

Don't know if it is available in Spain




look's good! i will try a degreaser next time

zerofish

Quote from: maka on March 14, 2015, 11:42:51 PM
one more question..
what do you use to degrease the reel?I am a bit affraid to use something too strong,maybe I take off the decals on the outside of the reel.

A brush and a zippo fluid works for me. After i strip the plates from all components and clean them with the brush and fluid a use liquid dish soap and a brush to wash them. Once they get dry they look like they came out of the production line. Only the plates though... You can dry them fast with hair dryer.

Slazmo i have a Saros 3000F for service. Up till now i used Quantum Hot Sauce oil/grease. For the gears i'll go with the 2-4-C grease but for the worm shaft what would you recommend? Oil or grease?

maka

Quote from: zerofish on March 17, 2015, 08:39:40 AM
Quote from: maka on March 14, 2015, 11:42:51 PM
one more question..
what do you use to degrease the reel?I am a bit affraid to use something too strong,maybe I take off the decals on the outside of the reel.

A brush and a zippo fluid works for me. After i strip the plates from all components and clean them with the brush and fluid a use liquid dish soap and a brush to wash them. Once they get dry they look like they came out of the production line. Only the plates though... You can dry them fast with hair dryer.

Slazmo i have a Saros 3000F for service. Up till now i used Quantum Hot Sauce oil/grease. For the gears i'll go with the 2-4-C grease but for the worm shaft what would you recommend? Oil or grease?

thank's for the tip

Slazmo

[quote author=zerofish link=topic=13406.msg135940#msg135940 date=1426581580
Slazmo i have a Saros 3000F for service. Up till now i used Quantum Hot Sauce oil/grease. For the gears i'll go with the 2-4-C grease but for the worm shaft what would you recommend? Oil or grease?[/quote]

I would definitely use a degreaser and then wwash with water and wash again with warm soapy water and rinse after that!

I use the 2-4-C on then worm drive but don't over load it only to the top of the worm track. I only oil the moving areas where the bushings are.

I personally hate Hot Sauce for the colour and the false advertising of molecular attractions... Again advertising hooking people...

johndtuttle

Worm gears I use oil (Corrosion-X). By nature they produce friction and rely on the different hardness of the metals to feel smooth (soft pawl, hard worm gear). Can feel a little sluggish with grease.

zerofish

I actually like the red color of the oil because it helps me from overdoing it...

This is why i chose it.

Slazmo

Quote from: maka on March 15, 2015, 07:41:27 PMi have used some acetone,work's fine

Within regards to some degreasers and other harsh cleaners, be aware that these can denature plastics and can create brittle plastics from what were strong ones.

Break cleaner for example which was highly recommended to me in a prior life to clean my headlight inners, once sprayed onto plastics actually destroyed the plastic very aggressively.

When cleaning fishing reels and their associated parts - please keep it safe and simple! Also some solvents contain BENZINE... Keep your health in mind over every other objective.

Andrew

Slazmo

Quote from: johndtuttle on March 17, 2015, 02:55:53 PM
Worm gears I use oil (Corrosion-X). By nature they produce friction and rely on the different hardness of the metals to feel smooth (soft pawl, hard worm gear). Can feel a little sluggish with grease.

Shimano's worm pawl is stainless from what it seems to look, and the worm drive itself is Aluminium with a EI treatment of Tuffram - which is basically a anodising finish - however this is 'self lubricating'.

You will find that any excessive amounts of grease will be pushed out of the worm track and whats left is whats needed. However this worm drive area should be the most attended in any reel with a worm drive oscillation system.

maka

I've just bought a "supertune" kit from U.S. for my 2015 rarenium 4000FB wich comes with 6+1 bearings.With this kit it will be a 10+1 bearings.I just hope i will be able to feel the difference  ;D
Also some dg-10 permalube grease from Japan.I try to go OEM for the first time and if I don't like the result I wil go with some more specialized grease.
When I got this reel I also bought a kit of oil and grease in spray from shimano.The oil is ok,very thin but the grease...buah.It has a trasparent/grey color and it's not sticking to the gears very well.I will probably never gonna use it again.

johndtuttle

#28
Quote from: Slazmo on March 18, 2015, 08:57:59 AM
Quote from: johndtuttle on March 17, 2015, 02:55:53 PM
Worm gears I use oil (Corrosion-X). By nature they produce friction and rely on the different hardness of the metals to feel smooth (soft pawl, hard worm gear). Can feel a little sluggish with grease.

Shimano's worm pawl is stainless from what it seems to look, and the worm drive itself is Aluminium with a EI treatment of Tuffram - which is basically a anodising finish - however this is 'self lubricating'.

You will find that any excessive amounts of grease will be pushed out of the worm track and whats left is whats needed. However this worm drive area should be the most attended in any reel with a worm drive oscillation system.

yea, there is more than one way to construct worm gears just as we see with pinion and main. It is most common to use hard pawls and soft worms. However, I don't use marine grease on any of them. Certainly protection with marine grease is never to be faulted however, if the resulting performance is to your taste.

Slazmo

#29
Quote from: maka on March 18, 2015, 11:01:53 AMWhen I got this reel I also bought a kit of oil and grease in spray from shimano. The oil is ok,very thin but the grease...buah. It has a trasparent/grey color and it's not sticking to the gears very well.I will probably never gonna use it again.

Ha, grease that doesnt stick - thats Shimano's stuff for you! Thats what I mean by getting the OEM stuff out and some better suited stuff in!

Re: Super tune kit - depends on the bearing quality, the tolerance of the bearing and the cup (for obvious reasons - Shimano aren't that great at getting this right 'OD vs. Bearing Cup ID') and further depends on the reels own internal state. All depends on a variable state of factors.

johndtuttle - Within regards to the Worm drive, feel yes its everyone's own need to have a certain response from winding their reels. However I find that a reel which is too "free" can suffer from a winding gear lash of sorts. Where one can wind too fast and the gears have a noise, somewhat to a rear differential in a four wheel drive. These gears tend to overstep themselves to some degree and make a noise of sorts.

Slowing this down with a little grease suppresses this process and keeps things nice and smooth. I find that a slower yet well lubed reel is far superior to a reel that is lightly lubricated and too easy to wind for many obvious reasons.