Daiwa Sealine 30H

Started by Porthos, March 19, 2015, 03:52:35 AM

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For whatever reason, bidders seem to fight over these on eBay more often than not, and they end up in the $35-$40 range. I had been looking to get one for my Sealine lineup, and finally scored one for $37.90 ($32.10 + $5.80 shipping); Paypal Select was running a $10 off first purchase so $27.90 was final total.

Here is the rebuilt (for the disassembly, go to the bottom and scroll back up). There are some interesting differences in the 30H that I haven't seen in the 50H, 400H, and 600H--will get to there during the rebuild.

First order of business was to measure the drag washers. The best fit for the first two and the undergear was the Penn 6-855, with the inner diameter being just right and the outer diameter needing just a shave. The main gear had the infamous inner lip/ridge found on some of the other Sealines H's so the inner diameter of the 6-855 will need a shave as well. So an email to Alan, and the washers were in hand.

Three original Daiwa washers had a height of 4.5 mm; it took four 6-855's to match, so the decision was made to double up the bottom one which ensured clearance between the first keyed washer and the main gear inner lip. Good thing I had asked Alan to send me EIGHT 6-855's.

I think I took this trick from Lee to hold the washers in place for the outer grinding...

The grinding of the inner diameter I carefully did by freehand. From left to right, top row, the shaved outer 6-855, the shave inner and outer 6-855, and the original Daiwa washer. Immediately below them is the dry fitting of the first drag washer in the main gear...

With the washers all sized as needed, I started the rebuild in earnest with the left ring and frame.

Clicker mechanism dissasembled, greased, and reassembled.

I did not attempt to remove or service the bearing since Bryan Young said these were peened in and well greased; they were smooth enough but I did add a couple of drops of CorrosionX.

Frame and ring greased, installed, and set aside. The foot is riveted on, so nothing to do there.

On to the right side plate. The internal surfaces were mostly dry, but the moving parts had old grease of which some had emulsified into a white and green waxy "crud." Can see some of it on the eccentric cam. Carb cleaner helped in the removal.

The right side ring could only be lifted up so far due to the presence of the thumb screws which are "permanent" peened to the plate. Ran my grease brush in between as best as I could.

Moving on to the internals. The right side spool bearing is held in place in the bridge with a retainer. I took it out, wiped off the old lube, grease with Yamaha blue, and put it back in place. Also greased the gear shaft and installed the gear sleeve and the greased undergear 6-855; went with CF since this reel will probably never be fished past 13lbs drag.

On goes main gear and the first drag washer...

...and doubling up.

The rest of the stack followed for the 3+1 config, followed by the spacing sleeve.

One of the interesting points of the gear sleeve to bridge assembly is that it is NOT held in place with a pin through the gear sleeve. It is held in place with a washer and c-clip at the top of the shaft. Found it to be an awkward setup; implied why the later Sealine H's don't have this feature but a pin instead. Had to put it on at this point to prevent the gear sleeve from siding off when I turned the whole assembly upside down later.


Couple of drops of CorrosionX for bearing.

Prepping the right side plate...

Greasing the screws

After all four screws were put in, the traditional hold-the-screws-in-place-n-flip maneuver was done. Then the dog was dropped in place on the lower right screw followed by the clutch springs, yoke, jack, and pinion gear in their respective locations. (Sorry, no pics here since my hands were full.) After all four plate screws were tightened, I proceed to install the one and only small plate screw retaining nut. Why this is needed, I have no idea. The later Sealine H's don't have this nut on the one screw that is also the shaft for the dog. It was an original factory part so back on it went.

With the bridge secured on to the plate, I installed the dog spring, and made sure that free spool and anti-reverse were functioning correctly. There was no way for the gear sleeve to slide off, so I removed the washer and c-clip. Reason for this will come later.

In goes the belleville washers in ( ) config.

Then the star...

...and the reason for the removal of the washer and c-clip: the handle cannot be installed if they are in place! On goes the handle washer (B17-2801).

The handle itself and the nut

And THEN the gear sleeve washer...

...and c-clip can finally go back on.

Nut cover and screw.

Greasing the internal surfaces of the spool

Handle side is ready to be secured back on with the three thumb screws.


With the star completely backed off, there is still a noticeable amount of drag pressure. This may be because the 6-855 is thicker than the original red under gear washer. I will probably take the handle off and remove the handle washer  (B17-2801) to compensate. Would probably spool up with 400yds of 50lb braid or 300yds of 65lb braid plus a 20, 25, 30, or 40 lb topshot.

There doesn't appear to be any readily available power handles for the 30H, but I did compare the hole of the Daiwa factory balanced handle to the hole on a Penn 24-56, and the latter just needs to be grind out a bit to fit...hmm.


UPDATE 4/20/2015

Spooled up with some 65lb braid I had laying around; with star buttoned down, drag maxed around 16lbs, More than enough for a 40lb setup.

Alto Mare

Beautiful tutorial Porthos, with some nice detailed pics, that is definitely a lot of reel for the money.
I really like that gear sleeve, I've been trying to get them made exactly the same in stainless steel for the Tank, with the removable ratchet and a c-clip. No luck up to now.
The handle nut should be a cap nut, almost as the one you're showing and not as we have it now, those always get tight on me when I push the reels from my tests.
Very nice job, thanks for sharing.

Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Bryan Young

I'm sorry for the mis-information.  The bearing in the side plate can come out.  The bearing in the bridge for these reels are sometimes peened in and sometimes not.  I don't know why some are peened in and some are not.

And a very nice tutorial.  Thank you for sharing.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Shark Hunter

Great Tutorial Porthos. You have that reel ready to go.
Life is Good!


 Mr Porthos:     Thanks for the great pictures and step by step showing the parts you upgraded to.  I too like these reels,       And I have a factory 2 position handle for this reel I would give you for the postage if you pm me!..... I found that you can use thinner steel washers and add another cf washer in the drag stack as well.  but thats if and when you want more drag available.  another tip might be to "burn in" your new drag stack by cranking down on the star a little and turning the crank arm with a drill for a while.  slowly working up the drag pressure.  You will be suprised how it smooths out the assembly and you may have no drag at start up with the star backed off.   Just an idea, as it works for me.  These are great reels for the money!


gstours,adding one more washer will not give you more drag. Drag setups have to be odd numbers of drags so you would have to add 2 CF washers & 1 keyed washer & 1 eared washer  to have the odd number stack. Stacks have to be odd numbers 3, 5, 7, 9, etc. & the last eared washer must be in the gear to work unless you are using a Versa Drag style setup.      


Good score.  I don't have any but these are nice reels.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

Shark Hunter

I was thinking that same thing Gary. Set that stack and it will be good to go. ;)
Life is Good!


Removed the handle washer (B17-2801) this morning and the sliver of freed up space allowed the star to back off that little bit--just enough for the drag pressure to be acceptable.


very nice!  did i ever send you a wrench?  if not, send me a pm with your address and i will mail one out!!!!!
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!


in the mail, post stickied.  thanks a million!!!!!
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!


Quote from: alantani on March 19, 2015, 04:43:39 PM...post stickied.  thanks a million!!!!!



i don't think that was ever in question....   ;D
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!


Hey, thanks for this tutorial!!  I just opened one up today and started taking pictures of the process but now I'll just refer to this post. Mine however is not in such beautiful shape as yours. These Sealine reels unfortunately are susceptible to corrosion if they are not maintained on a regular basis.


Quote from: codisking on March 23, 2015, 04:26:18 AM
Hey, thanks for this tutorial!!  I just opened one up today and started taking pictures of the process but now I'll just refer to this post. Mine however is not in such beautiful shape as yours. These Sealine reels unfortunately are susceptible to corrosion if they are not maintained on a regular basis.

Its a great reel and also the levelwind version of these reels are tough as nails! I like my 27sh and 47sh