Daiwa Sealine 30H

Started by Porthos, March 19, 2015, 03:52:35 AM

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Smooth Drag - Dawn might know the proper thickness for that reel.

I have not failed.  I just found 10,000 ways that won't work.


Quote from: codisking on March 25, 2015, 03:24:21 AM...On to the gear sleeve and drag washers. It measures out to be 10.795 mm. I have been checking out the size chart on smooth drags and I notice that #19 has a good OD and ID but the washers are not thick enough. I'll figure something out though...

Original thickness = 3 x 1.5mm = 4.5mm

IMHO, the path of LEAST resistance (no cutting, grinding, fuss, or muss) is...FIVE #19's = 5 x 1mm = 5.0mm...double up in the first and second drag washer position, use a single for the third position. You may need to omit the handle washer like I did to compensate for the extra 0.05mm.

Also order a #7, #9, or delrin for the under gear at the same time if you are going with Smooth Drag.



Was at Charkbait in San Diego and saw on the rack at the Smooth Drag kit for the Daiwa 50H, listed on the label insert of other compatible reels was the Daiwa 30SH!!!!

If Dawn had these produced using the dimensions of the Daiwa factory washers then the gap will still be there, so the choice is yours...the EASY BUTTON or go with the tighter inner diameter and pay extra.


30H vs 30SH,

These two reels have different gear ratios (3.8 vs 5.1), with the 5.1 naturally having a larger drag.  Which would be the better ratio between the two; being that the difference in line retrieve per handle turn is small (27" vs 34")?  Is the 30SH suitable for jigging with a 34" retrieve? Seems more suited to bait. This question is in regards to gear ratio's and application's only.




With 34' of retrieve, the 30SH matches the retrieve of the Penn 113HN/113N...the quintessential jigging reel of the left coast. HOWEVER, the Penns outclass the 30SH in both drag and capacity. Apples to oranges.

Now the Avet SX 5.3 is smaller than the 30SH with a slightly smaller capacity, 4" less retrieve, and at least 1-2 lbs drag less than the 30SH, but they are, IMHO, are apples to apples. Where one uses the SX is where one could also use the 30SH. Probably live bait as primary application, casting as secondary.

The one thing that would need to be swapped on the 30SH is that horrible tiny balanced handle. I was bottom fishing the 30H with its 3.8:1 ratio down to 160' using 12oz torpedos, and small handle radius made cranking it up a TOTAL CHORE. I've since upgraded it to a 3' handle with a plastic molded T-bar:

The 30H handle hole is slightly wider than the holes of the Penn 24-55 and 24-56 handles; the rounded ends needed to be filed to fit on the 30H gear sleeve. The flat sides of the Penn handles were just right and need NO reworking.

The 30SH, with its 50H drag washers, probably has a balanced handle with a hole that the 50H handle has...or close to what the Penn 113H handles have. I've compared the holes of my Daiwa 50H handles to the Penn 24-349, and the hole of the 24-349 would need to be filed as well on the ends to match. The only way to know for sure is to physically compare the 30SH balanced handle hole.



Where did you find the upgraded handle in the picture. Is it an exact fit for the 30h or did you have to modify it as you described. Please give details.




There are NO 30H after market handles that I could find; I had to compare the 30H handle to existing Penn handles, and the Penn Type A handles (which fit the Jigmaster) were the closest match. Had to use needle files, curved and round ones, and file the round ends of the handle hole until the gear sleeve fitted. The 30H handle hole's rounded ends were about 9mm apart, whereas the Penn were slightly more than 8mm.

I SUSPECT that the 30SH, since it uses the 50H main gear, has a gear sleeve and handle hole bigger than the 30H's; you will need to confirm this somehow, since I don't have access to a 30SH handle to check. The holes of the 30SH and 50H CANNOT be matched up from the schematics on mikesreelrepair.com; there are no common parts related to the handle hole.

The source of the handle you see is eBay.

If the 30SH handle hole matches the 50H then this is the one to get and re-work:

If you PM me your snail mail address, I can send a post card with tracings of the 30H and 50H handle holes for you to compare. Probably the easiest way if you don't physically have the 30H, 30SH, and 50H handles all at the same time.



The handle washer, B17-2801, is a MATCH for the 30H and 30SH!

The Jigmaster handle would be it.

Can still send you the tracings to confirm...


Thanx Porthos,

What did you do to cover the handle nut and what about the lock/set screw ? You show the side view, would you show the front view please?




Unable to re-use the Daiwa nut cap unless a new hole is tapped in the handle for the handle nut plate screw (351-1801). I basically slathered Yamaha grease on the gear shaft and filled the area around the top of the shaft/gear sleeve/nut area with the same before placing the handle nut washer (371-0604) on. From that point on, I use generous amounts of vaseline (assumed to be less toxic than the Yamaha) to install the handle nut retainer (320-7601); did this since any exposed grease can transfer to one's hands. Wiped off the excess on the surfaces.. It's the best compromise without tapping that screw hole which I currently have no means to do.

Fundamentally, relying on the Vaseine/Yamaha grease to provide protection that the cap would have serve; would need to check, service, and lube this area more frequently to prevent corrosion



If the Penn nut cap is LARGER than the Daiwa handle nut then this idea might work "THEORETICALLY". You might try to dremel out the interior corners of the nut cap to form a circle (just a larger interior cavity). Then partially fill the cavity with JB weld (epoxy). Next before the JB weld sets, coat the handle nut with a thin film of Vasaline/petroleum gelly (anything so JB weld will not stick to the handle nut). Now with the coated handle nut; press the nut into the setting JB weld to make an exact impression into the JB weld. Basically your making a mold in the cavity of the handle nut cover. Dont forget to make sure the nut cover aligns with the lock screw hole (may have to coat handle with Vasaline so JB weld wont stick) and use the Penn lock screw.

What ya think,



I don't have any Penn nut caps to try the JB weld approach, and I've never attempted anything like what you've described, so I'm passing the torch to you on that project...

I did try to add another hole to the Daiwa cap, BUT in examining the underside of the cap, the cap mold that Daiwa had injected the plastic into left THREE holes between the nut cavity and the lock screw hole; two larger holes with a tiny one in the middle. The Penn screw hole aligns with tiny middle hole. After drilling out this middle hole all the way thru to match the size of the original Daiwa screw hole, the rework to accommodate the screwhead removed so much of the plastic to the point where a chunk of the nut cavity is exposed as well as the two larger underside holes. There's very little material for the screw to compress against. One good whack by a falling rod against the cap would probably snap it off.

Oh, well...no guts, no glory. I've sacrificed one Daiwa 30H handle nut cap to the fishing gods...hope they like it.   ;)

Good luck with your rebuild, Leo!

Hmm...now that I think about it, the Daiwa's nut cavity is not just six-sided--there's more, though only six points will be occupied at any one time. If JB Weld filled the unoccupied gaps AS WELL AS the two larger holes left by the injection mold before any drilling, that may eliminate most of the exposed holes I got in my experiment. Something to consider before jumping to a Penn cap.


Thanks so much for this report! My 30H just arrived today - $35. It looks a little more worn than yours but it spins reel nice.

Im working on a 27H and learned the hard way how not to remove (#70) 6-320-8202 Handle nut retainer.... heard it hit in the corner and am still looking for it.

Any favorite place to buy these clips?

For a 30SH and a bit pricier.



Nice work Porthos. These reels are highly under rated and are little work horses. A little work and these things will go forever, already all aluminum and with a nice CF upgrade can slay some fish!


Ruffy, (4) 6-855 drag washers.  First two, the ID needs to be filed larger to fit the ring in the inside of the gear.  Put two, then key washer, one more, eared washer, one more, keyed.  Grease as you go.

No drop in exists, but this ones pretty easy. 

Don't breathe the dust as you file (use a round file).
I woke today and suddenly nothing happened.