alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial 30sw international
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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alantani
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« Reply #15 on: June 03, 2012, 04:52:42 PM »

thanks!  i see you have the old style drag washer also. 
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Gaujo
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« Reply #16 on: June 08, 2012, 03:56:43 PM »

Ya, i was trying to save money and use the ht100 version, but have run into trouble. I started a thread on it.
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« Reply #17 on: September 23, 2013, 02:26:21 PM »

Hi Alan,

I would like to thank you for another excellent rebuild tutorial. I have just serviced a Penn 30SW II and 50SW II that my father gave me. The noted reels were used no more than five times but where purchased sometime in the late 80s. Nevertheless, there where some corrosion which suspect is from the age and storage of the reels. The drag washer attached to the drag plate on both reels appear to be the old composite and not the carbontex as shown in this tutorial. Attached is the photo which I borrowed from this tutorial just to illustrate the parts that I am referring to. I want to replace composite drag washer with carbontex but I am not sure if this would require replacing also the drag plate. The second photo is my handed down 30SW the reel that I have worked on. Once again thanks for all your guidance  Grin



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« Last Edit: September 23, 2013, 02:49:01 PM by GaryG » Logged
erikpowell
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« Reply #18 on: November 04, 2013, 04:22:45 PM »

Bula Gang,

Geez, I wish the 50SW II I'm working on now looked as good as the one above!..... sure would make my job alot easier.. Shocked

Seems like a silly question to me, but do to a recent experience I must pose the question to you all...

For as messed up, corroded, neglected and nasty as this reel is/was... surprisingly (and as testament to Penn quality) the bearings are still good!....they just need a flush and clean.

Which leads me to my question:



These bearings have a removable stainless shield on 1 side and a plastic shield on the other...or so I think its a shield...

I recently tried to pull the shields of some brand new shimano replacement bearings and ended up pulling out an entire plastic race !! Angry

So I'm suddenly gun-shy on an exercise I've done hundreds of times.  Huh?

Can somebody please confirm for me that these plastic shields on the penn bearings are indeed shields I CAN remove without trashing the bearing?  I'll sleep so much better tonight  Grin

I'm not concerned with re-installing the plastic shields if they are damaged...
Thanks all !
« Last Edit: November 04, 2013, 04:26:41 PM by erikpowell » Logged
alantani
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« Reply #19 on: November 04, 2013, 06:15:14 PM »

the white nylon that you see is not a shield.  it is the entire race. 
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Bunnlevel Sharker
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« Reply #20 on: November 04, 2013, 08:10:16 PM »

I don't like the nylon race bearings, as I have never been sure of how to properly clean them.
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Grayson Lanier
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« Reply #21 on: November 04, 2013, 09:23:22 PM »

Thanks Chief !
I was afraid of that... will I be okay doing a 1 sided flush with carb cleaner without harming the plastic race?

and how would you place that in the bearing packer..if at all... plastic side up or down on the cone? or does it matter?

I'll hand pack it anyway since I never sprung for the bigger packer  Roll Eyes ... but still would like to know

Thanks Alan

I don't like the nylon race bearings, as I have never been sure of how to properly clean them.

Yeah I'm with ya on that Grayson ... I guess that's one reason why we're all here  Grin

On that note:
All the tiagra replacement bearings (couple dozen) I recently got straight from shimano have plastic races...what a PIA.
not only that, but the metal shields are pressed in ...UGHhhh....that just seems cheap to me
I ruined the first one I tried to pull the shields off... I got my awl in too far and broke the race.
..so much for open spool bearings

I usually try to find a bright side of things...maybe these plastic race bearings will have one... we'll see how they hold up
... they were pretty well greased inside though...
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« Reply #22 on: November 05, 2013, 08:03:23 AM »

I don't like the nylon race bearings, as I have never been sure of how to properly clean them.

same as the others, just compressed air and carb cleaner. 
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Bunnlevel Sharker
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« Reply #23 on: November 05, 2013, 08:48:58 AM »

Ok thanks I have been using white vinegar and dawn, all my castin reels have bushings anyways so they just get packed with grease. I was worried about melting the plastic.
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Grayson Lanier
Robert Janssen
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« Reply #24 on: November 06, 2013, 01:14:49 AM »

Quote
the white nylon that you see is not a shield.  it is the entire race.  

No it isn't. It is the ball retainer, also called cage. The races are the tracks the balls run in; also referred to as inner and outer ring.

Quote
...I was worried about melting the plastic...

Like this?




Just kidding. This melted during an extreme drag test; it has nothing to do with chemicals.

.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2013, 02:59:30 AM by Robert Janssen » Logged
UKChris
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« Reply #25 on: January 21, 2014, 04:37:15 AM »

Hi Alan,

I would like to thank you for another excellent rebuild tutorial. I have just serviced a Penn 30SW II and 50SW II that my father gave me. The noted reels were used no more than five times but where purchased sometime in the late 80s. Nevertheless, there where some corrosion which suspect is from the age and storage of the reels. The drag washer attached to the drag plate on both reels appear to be the old composite and not the carbontex as shown in this tutorial. Attached is the photo which I borrowed from this tutorial just to illustrate the parts that I am referring to. I want to replace composite drag washer with carbontex but I am not sure if this would require replacing also the drag plate. The second photo is my handed down 30SW the reel that I have worked on. Once again thanks for all your guidance  Grin



Lovely reel, but I notice the frame is in the wrong way round - well, compared to every other Penn International I've seen.
I guess it doesn't seem to matter.
Chris
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FatTuna
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« Reply #26 on: May 31, 2015, 06:09:44 PM »

Anyone ever open one where the pinon gear is seized onto the pinon bearing? My instinct is to put the shaft in a vice and pull it out.

Also, do the lugs have to face a certain direction?

Thanks guys.
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Tightlines666
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« Reply #27 on: May 31, 2015, 06:44:59 PM »

Yes, I have had pinion bearings seized on shafts.  Try soak it, heat it, and pry it off with 2 opposing screwdrivers, or put tue bearing in a vise.  Be carefull not to damage the pinion gear/shaft they are expensive.  If worse comes to worse, you can use the vise or a press to split/break the bearing.  I use my arbor press and a die on these now that I have one.

The lugs should be positioned so the flat part faces towards the innermost part of the reel.  The locating pins, if present, will keep you on track.  The schematic shows how the asymetrical ones are positioned.
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FatTuna
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« Reply #28 on: May 31, 2015, 08:38:15 PM »

Yes, I have had pinion bearings seized on shafts.  Try soak it, heat it, and pry it off with 2 opposing screwdrivers, or put tue bearing in a vise.  Be carefull not to damage the pinion gear/shaft they are expensive.  If worse comes to worse, you can use the vise or a press to split/break the bearing.  I use my arbor press and a die on these now that I have one.

The lugs should be positioned so the flat part faces towards the innermost part of the reel.  The locating pins, if present, will keep you on track.  The schematic shows how the asymetrical ones are positioned.


Thanks a lot Tightlines. I will try these techniques tomorrow.

The bearing is not coming out of the sideplate. There was a lot of corrosion in this reel.... Everything else cleaned up nicely.


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« Last Edit: May 31, 2015, 08:45:29 PM by fatstriper » Logged
Tightlines666
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« Reply #29 on: May 31, 2015, 09:38:35 PM »

That is ugly!

You can probably press out the entire can assembly from the outside of the plate.  Try soaking the whole lot in 50:50 ATF:Acetone or mineral spirits.  See if you can turn the preset screw to force the bearing out, then try pressing the cam assembly out from the outside.  Be careful not to damage the gear teeth, or bend the shaft in the process.  If you end up clamping it in a vise, use something to protect the teeth and avoid and side torque.

Good luck!
&keep us posted on the progress.
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