Torque 300 AR bearing.

Started by richard, July 31, 2015, 03:29:01 PM

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richard

 Greetings to all from sunny England.     
Does anyone know a way to "spike" the AR bearing on a TQ300(old style)
I find this bearing locks up under pressure from a fish, and even when I back off the star( with rod still bent) it stays locked
until I turn the handle forward again, then its instantly frees. Both of my torques do this, but it does not happen with any other star drag reel
I've ever used.
The reels are great  (ok a little heavy) and I am happy to rely on the double dog AR.
Would a thin synthetic oil help it "slip" ---can I remove some of the little springs in the AR?
I do not want to create slack at this point as the bearing keeps the shaft inline.
Any advice much appreciated.
Thanks Richard.

johndtuttle

#1
Quote from: richard on July 31, 2015, 03:29:01 PM
Greetings to all from sunny England.     
Does anyone know a way to "spike" the AR bearing on a TQ300(old style)
I find this bearing locks up under pressure from a fish, and even when I back off the star( with rod still bent) it stays locked
until I turn the handle forward again, then its instantly frees. Both of my torques do this, but it does not happen with any other star drag reel
I've ever used.
The reels are great  (ok a little heavy) and I am happy to rely on the double dog AR.
Would a thin synthetic oil help it "slip" ---can I remove some of the little springs in the AR?
I do not want to create slack at this point as the bearing keeps the shaft inline.
Any advice much appreciated.
Thanks Richard.


It sounds like you just need to rehab the bearing. If it is sticking like this then likely corrosion or some other fouling is preventing the rollers from traveling freely.

Usually a penetrating oil and spinning the sleeve in the bearing until the oil is perfectly clear helps a lot to clear corrosion or old grease.

You can use a light grease after that to protect it from corrosion, cutting it with oil as needed.

ps My understanding is that it is staying locked when it should rotate freely??? Of course, the purpose of this bearing is to provide instant antireverse and it always only rotates freely in one direction, the dogs are just back up. Some spinning reels have anti-reverse that can be switched on and off. That is not the case with the Torque.

MarkT

I don't understand your problem.  The ARB is supposed to move forward when the handle turns... and only when the handle turns.
When I was your age Pluto was a planet!

Tiddlerbasher

I'm with Mark - The AR bearing should lock-up when a fish pulls - It's then down to the drag setting to feed line.
Sorry don't understand your problem ???

richard

Hi Guys.
            Sorry for late reply and any confusion caused!   
    I know that this bearing only goes one way and that its supposed to locks when reversed, to prevent the handle spinning backwards.
    It seems that when it is in this "locked" position with a fish pulling hard,that the outer "fluted" section of the bearing will not slide within
    the reel in response to adjustment from the star. If there is no "back pressure" on this bearing then the drag works like any other.
    Anyone who has a torque 300...200 might like to try tying the line to a tree,pull a bend in the rod and then unscrew the drag star.
    Normally the rod will slowly loose its bend as the star is gradually released.With my 300's and another one I tried the drag star will loosen up on its threads
    but the bend will remain in the rod.As soon as you go to wind in....un locking the AR bearing....the drag frees up suddenly,not good with a fish under the boat.
    My Baja's are very similar to the torques internally,but have a regular ball bearing in this position.This works perfectly,like a sleeve on a senator,with the AR dogs
    doing the work.                   
     

   
     

   

johndtuttle

Ah, gotcha...the bearing is grabbing the AR Sleeve (which functions in the drag chain) preventing drag adjustment...

I'd pull it out and give it all a good greasing with a light viscosity grease/oil mixture and see if that helps. Can't say I have ever heard of this one before.

richard

 
  Johndtuttle.
                   Thanks for the explanation John.Seems like that is whats happening in this case.
  Is there a grease/oil mix you would recommend?    Last time I just smeared a little cals on the
  flutes hoping that would allow the bearing to slide a fraction for drag adjustment. I guess that
  a mix if grease and light oil will be more "slippery"?
  Love the reels......built like a brick outhouse!!

johndtuttle

#7
Quote from: richard on August 04, 2015, 11:36:41 AM
 
  Johndtuttle.
                   Thanks for the explanation John.Seems like that is whats happening in this case.
  Is there a grease/oil mix you would recommend?    Last time I just smeared a little cals on the
  flutes hoping that would allow the bearing to slide a fraction for drag adjustment. I guess that
  a mix if grease and light oil will be more "slippery"?
  Love the reels......built like a brick outhouse!!

Yes, Cal's should be fine mixed with a light oil like Corrosion-X to keep things free. This should be done after cleaning the bearing. You can use a plastic safe solvent (fast) or just squirt Corrosion-X on the sleeve and spin it to work the rollers until it appears free of old lube.

You can also post your trouble on the Penn forum at stripersonline.com as that is their service center's site for helping people. They probably have heard of this problem before and will have the definitive solution.

richard


    Excellent, i will try mixing in corrosion X later in the year--reels are in Cabo ATM.
    RE stripersonline.com,will check them out and post if the CX trick doesn't work.
    great site this!!!!! thanks again for your help.
   

nelz

Actually this kinda makes sense; the sleeve actually serves dual purpose, so if it's locked tight under pressure it stands to reason that it shouldn't rotate or move side to side, until the pressure is either reduced or released. I'm going to have to test this with my own TRQ.

Fish-aholic

#10
If you run a Q-tip through the internal bore of the IAR bearing clutch sleeve, you can find it's fibres will catch highlighting the fact it's not smooth inside. This roughed up surface is another reason why the clutch sleeve can bind against the drive/gear shaft. An internal rub with fine grade and a light lube should help.  ;)

richard


nelz..........please let us know how it goes with your TRQ.cheers.

Fish-aholic....That's excellent advice sir! I was concentrating on getting the outer "fluted" section of the AR bearing to slide,but  its
this internal "square" section that actually transfers the pressure from star to drag. WOW.........I SEE SUNLIGHT!   thanks.

Fish-aholic

Easiest application is to wrap some 800 grade around the shaft of a drill bit which closely matches the internal bore, and rotate the clutch sleeve around it. ;)

richard



  fish-aholic..........That will be my first move then....cheers!
 

johndtuttle

#14
So it just so happens to turn out that this is a more common issue that I at first realized, as it affects every star drag reel with an AR bearing (one way clutch).

Fishing generally heavy leaders and such I simply have never noticed it before but this inability to reduce the drag with an ARB is part of how they work. They often grip the AR Sleeve and prevent the sort of upward movement that is necessary to reduce the drag until the handle is moved forward/there is enough slack in the line for the sleeve to float.

I came across this as I have a new Abu Garcia Revo Toro Beast in my hands that uses a just patented drag system that is the only one (to my knowledge) that allows you to reduce the drag when the ARB is under load. "IAR Drag Release".

http://www.google.com/patents/US8807471



Its a more complicated issue that it first appears!