alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial TUTORIAL: ABU 6500 C3
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: TUTORIAL: ABU 6500 C3  (Read 91473 times)
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BigT
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« on: January 06, 2011, 04:13:44 PM »

It's been a while since I posted... here's a recent project to upgrade a couple of reels I purchased second hand.

ABU's classic C series reels are a dream to work on. Wherever possible the engineering is similar between models, parts are often interchangeable between models of the same size and spares are readily available for most... even quite old... models.

I can't imagine how many 6500C3's are out there but its a whole lot. These are 2 reels I acquired recently. One is a 6500C3 Daintree - model #06 00, the other is a slightly earlier #99 10.

There are only minimal differences between them... mostly around the clicker. If you have a 6500C3 of any model, I hope this service tutorial will help. Just open up your specific schematic and otherwise the general approach should be similar.

Here's the reels... for the tutorial I've focused on the 'Daintree' model.



Back out the 2 right side plate assembly captive retaining screws and remove the side plate assembly... put it aside for later





Remove the spool (Ref #970387)



Now we can service the spool beginning by removing the spool shaft (Ref #802631) and the spool pinion gear (Ref #19373)





Remove the brake assembly (Ref #19372 & #'s20211) from the other end of the spool after first removing the c-clip (Ref #13084) that secures it.





Now the spool bearings (Ref #13472 - size 3x10x4mm) and bearing spring washer (Ref #13104) can be removed. For some reason, this reel had a second spring washer beneath the 2nd spool bearing that isn't shown on the schematic. With some testing, it became really obvious that this washer was badly impeding freespool so I left it out. (maybe someone thought it was missing in the past so put one in??)

The best tool for removing small bearings is simply a bent paperclip...







The bearing shields can be removed, the bearings cleaned (I use Carby Cleaner), oiled (I use Corrosion X) and replaced unshielded.





Reassemble the spool and give it a spin to make sure everything is running well... sweeeeet, sweeeeet spin!!



Moving on to the left side, back out the 3 side plate screws (Ref #13582) and remove the side plate (Ref #23049).





To clean the inside of the left side plate remove the level-wind idler gear (ref #21800)... it's secured to the shaft by clips molded as part of the gear itself. Slip out the spool clicker assembly (ref #'s 21805 & 21807)... then give the inside of the side plate a good clean with a lint-free cloth and cotton buds (to get into those hard to reach areas)





I like to brush on a fine coat of grease to the inside of side plates to protect against corrosion. Then the right side plate assembly can be put back together with a single drop of oil going on the idler gear shaft.





To service the level-wind begin by moving to the left side of the reel frame plate (Ref #803204) and removing the level-wind retaining clip plate (Ref #5178)



Unscrew the pawl cap (Ref #5177) and remove the level-wind pawl (Ref #5177)





Now the worm screw (Ref #5205), worm screw cover (Ref #2496) and line guide (Ref #5174) can be slipped out, cleaned, oiled and reassembled.











The left side plate can now be returned (with a tiny dob of grease on the thread of each screw) and the spool replaced in the frame.





Time to sort out the main mechanical workings of the reel. Begin by removing the handle nut cap screw (ref #15652) and handle nut cap (ref #20934)



Now remove the 'e-clip' (ref #4490) and handle nut (ref #15359) allowing the handle (ref #20931) to be lifted off.







Next remove the handle spring washer (ref #5115) and drag star (ref #20680)

Now... you're all lining up your parts in order as you remove them right?





To get at the internals of the reel, now back out the 2 right side plate screws (ref #13584)



Lift off the right side plate (ref #23052) and carefully put aside the 2 belleville washers (ref #5131) that sit atop the anti reverse bearing. (this is one area where you might find significant differences between ABU 'C' series reels... some have anti-reverse bearings, some have anti-reverse dogs)





Now gently remove the drive gear assembly consisting of the drive shaft (ref #22079), main drive gear (ref #212000), drag washers and the anti-reverse bearing collar (ref #22001)



Changing the drag to Carbontex is pretty much automatic for me... it's worth noting that these days, most ABU reels come new with carbon washers!!

The drag assembly is separated and the Carbontex washers are greased (with Cal's or Shimano drag grease) and used to replace the corresponding 4 originals (ref #'s 13169, 20907)







To disassemble the clutch first lift off the clutch position holder (ref #22808), then lift of the pinion yoke (ref #20664) and pinion gear (ref #20848)





Lift off the clutch slider (ref #22807), clutch lever (ref #20671) and clutch link arm (ref #20685)







Finally, lift off and put aside the main gear thrust washer clutch button (ref #5189).



Now all the components can get a thorough clean, the outside surface of the brake plate a coat of grease, a sparing smear of gear grease on the drive and pinion gears and it all goes back together.









Reattach the right side plate and reassemble the drag star and handle (adding a protective light brush of grease to all the 'hidden' metal surfaces as you go)









A drop of oil on each handle knob and we're done.






Just a quick final note... when I serviced the other C3 I discovered that the splines securing the spool pinion gear had been stripped, allowing it to turn and thus rendering the level wind inoperative. Most level winds use a 'sacrificial' nylon gear somewhere in the system so that should you get a finger stuck, the gear will break before bits of you!!

I also replaced one of the brake blocks (ref #20211) on the casting brake since it was sticking.







And there you have it. One of ABU's most popular and enduring reel types... and for good reason. The 6500C3 is simple, well engineered, easy to maintain, easy to modify to suit particular tastes and performs beautifully.


Cheers from Australia, BigT

« Last Edit: January 06, 2011, 05:33:49 PM by BryanYoung » Logged

more of my rebuilds on
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alantani
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« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2011, 08:19:48 PM »

fabulous!  i will cross this one off my list.  alan
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wallacewt
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« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2011, 11:38:44 PM »

good one bigt,we missed ya tony
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Roger
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« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2011, 04:17:51 AM »

Nice, I love my ABU's. I've been fish'n with those reels  since I was a kid and I ain't saying how long ago that was....... Grin
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Roger

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."   Mark Twain
aus bass
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« Reply #4 on: January 10, 2011, 08:27:24 PM »

Great, Thanks Big T.

Im doing a rebuild of an abu 6000 c3 i picked up off ebay. Parts are nigh on identical. Ebay sale description said "reel is good looking on the outside but it doesn't work". I thought "excellent, cheap purchase and repair coming up here". After cracking it open and replacing the pinion gear (6.3 ratio) that was stripped it is working fine.

Now the hard desicion, place it in my collection or put it back on ebay?
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alantani
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« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2011, 02:27:51 PM »

or fish with it?
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aus bass
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« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2011, 07:28:53 PM »

Too true Alan  Grin

6000 size abu's are perfect as a light inshore or estuary reel. Loaded with 15-20lb braid and it could well be a spare reel for friends that think im a charter operator!  Grin
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ountida
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« Reply #7 on: October 04, 2012, 09:19:13 AM »

Hi I am looking for a bearing upgrade, looking at my reel it say 99-10.

Does anyone in here have this model and what size bearing should I order?  I see a 3x10x4 and 4x10x4 at smoothdrag.com


Should I go with ceramic or stainless?

Thanks guy
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alantani
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« Reply #8 on: October 05, 2012, 03:17:50 AM »

the stock stainless steel bearings should be fine.  i would open them up, clean them out and reinstall them lightly lubed and open. 
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Ken_D
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« Reply #9 on: October 05, 2012, 07:07:50 AM »

What AT said.  A stock clean and dry 4 x 10 x 4 (yours) placed on the conical end of a sharpened pencil, and flicked hard, should spin for 12-15 seconds. If it does not, keep cleaning it till you hear it rattle like it's going to come apart, and spins for a good length of time. Usually by the third dunk in diesel starting fluid (careful, very flammable).
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ountida
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« Reply #10 on: October 07, 2012, 09:24:19 PM »

I'm having a hard time installing the spring washer, I know you suppose to install it (), I happen to clean it and forget how it go.

someone have a pic to show how it is done? in this pic , does the front go in first, and than do I install the second the same way, or do I install in by flipping the other side?
« Last Edit: October 07, 2012, 09:28:11 PM by ountida » Logged
redsetta
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« Reply #11 on: October 07, 2012, 09:56:19 PM »

Flip it.
Both have the same curve, just put one concave (ie curved towards the spool) and the next convex (ie curved towards the handle).
Good luck, Justin
« Last Edit: August 08, 2017, 12:52:31 PM by redsetta » Logged

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ountida
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« Reply #12 on: October 09, 2012, 12:38:07 AM »

let say the top surface on the washer is head and the bottom surface underneath it is tail
If i'm holding it exactly as in the pic would head go first and than tail Huh?

If you can answer this , I think i can manage to get it right this time.  Sorry, this is best idea I can think off to help me get it right this time.

Thanks guy  Cheesy
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Mooki
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« Reply #13 on: October 09, 2012, 05:05:52 AM »

Head downwards if I understand correctly, for the bottom washer. The next washer the other way around so you get a gap between the washers - a "springiness"...
I think it's possible to see in this pic the "standard configuration" for those belleville washers (I've tried to attach a pic, so let's see if it worked) Smiley
I'm pretty sure I have better pics somewhere but couldn't find any right now.
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ountida
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« Reply #14 on: October 12, 2012, 10:19:40 AM »

My worm gear on my 6500c3 need to replace because it is rotate to the right and won't move back. Should I get the original c3 worm gear kit or should I go with the c4 worm gear kit?   I see castaway website sell the 6000 worm gear kit which has 2 bearing.


What are the con and pro?

Thanks
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