Shimano spinning reel problems

[Padre]

I know lots of the guys here don't fish with eggbeaters, but sometimes inshore they just work better. I have a bunch of different Shimanos - Sahara (wephen it was still an aluminum reel), Sonora (cheap), Stradic (not so cheap). Since moving to Georgia, I consistently have same problem with all of them. The anti-reverse bearing gets corroded and wants to lock up. I know regular cleaning and maintenance is crucial to keeping reels working in saltwater, but I practically have to tear them down completely, disassemble the AR bearings, and clean them after every trip. That gets old in a hurry.

I'm correct that you're not supposed to oil or grease these AR bearings, aren't I? If so, how do I prevent them from going bad so quickly? Is it a matter of them lasting for a while when they're new, but once they start to have problems they always will?

Are there other brands that hold up better? Help. This is getting frustrating!

Here's what they look like

[borchcl]

I have had no problem lubing lightly with Corrosion X. However, I now leave the higher priced reels a home for freshwater use and use Diawa Sweepfire reels for salt water.
Charlie

[Porthos]

I've added CorrosionX to my Okuma Coronados' AR's with no noticeable adverse effects; the reels are working just fine 3 months after being out the entire time of a 5-day. I've seen posts where the Shimano AR's are rebuilt and installed dry, but this obviously is not working for you.

If it's starting to seize up after every trip, I'd say there's residual corrosion that builds back up once there is moisture. johndtuttle has stated in several posts that he's used CorrosionX to clean off corroded parts until the parts wipe off clean; any discoloration on a white rag or qtip means another soak, sit, and clean is needed.

Once the barrels are cleaned, I'd try a final soak of the barrels in CorrosionX or TSI 321, remove and gently tap off as much excess as possible, and place on a clean rag to "dry off" (i.e, let the rag naturally absorb what excess remains). Install and see if that holds up better.

[Tiddlerbasher]

x2 for corrosionX. You can try TSI301 but they may slip under a really hard pull. I've never had a problem with the corrosionX

[Bryan Young]

I have taken out the rollers, put them in a jar with acetone then ultrasonic cleaner.  Then taken them out, rinse in soapy dish soap water to remove any acetone residue, then used TSI301 without any ill effects thus far.  CorrosionX is another great option.

The reels are usually small enough that I'm not worried about enormous drags breaking loose the spindle when lubing with TSI301.

[johndtuttle]

I know lots of the guys here don't fish with eggbeaters, but sometimes inshore they just work better. I have a bunch of different Shimanos - Sahara (wephen it was still an aluminum reel), Sonora (cheap), Stradic (not so cheap). Since moving to Georgia, I consistently have same problem with all of them. The anti-reverse bearing gets corroded and wants to lock up. I know regular cleaning and maintenance is crucial to keeping reels working in saltwater, but I practically have to tear them down completely, disassemble the AR bearings, and clean them after every trip. That gets old in a hurry.

I'm correct that you're not supposed to oil or grease these AR bearings, aren't I? If so, how do I prevent them from going bad so quickly? Is it a matter of them lasting for a while when they're new, but once they start to have problems they always will?

Are there other brands that hold up better? Help. This is getting frustrating!

Here's what they look like

The trouble with the (otherwise) fine Shimano clutches is the wide bases the barrels have. Grease will gum them up so that is a definite no go...But corrosion-X is fine.

Reels that are used often will tolerate it more, again it is a case of gummy residue build up if the reel sits for a year sort of thing.

See if you may have pits on the "Sleeve" that are causing you trouble. The sleeves are generally chrome plated and will readily pit, then rust  instantly forever more once the chrome barrier is pieced. They have to be fairly soft stuff so the rollers can bite them.

In a nutshell, you are finding the difference between reels Shimano rates for saltwater use (SW models) that are well sealed around the clutch to prevent this problem and those only rated for freshwater (ie Stradic FK just got voted best new freshwater reel at ICAST) that are wide open to salt intrusion.

Other clutches (PENN) are more tolerant of grease and hold up better to salt even if they are not sealed.

[Tightlines667]

I have dropped the entire assembly in a jar of mineral spirits, and run it through the sonic cleaner.  I typically use mine unlubricated, but may start using a little speed X, since they seem to need alot of maintainence when using them in saltwater (even the SW model). 

*Also, as a reminder, do not use acetone with plastic or rubber parts.

[handi2]

I have dropped the entire assembly in a jar of mineral spirits, and run it through the sonic cleaner.  I typically use mine unlubricated, but may start using a little speed X, since they seem to need alot of maintainence when using them in saltwater (even the SW model). 

*Also, as a reminder, do not use acetone with plastic or rubber parts.

I too have used the ultrasonic cleaner on a non rusted roller clutch. I also use plastic safe electrical contact cleaner. I have never oiled them but now I surely will.