Metal polish

Started by Sandbar33, January 14, 2011, 02:33:32 PM

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Rockfish1

I've had really good results with Happich Simichrome Polish.  I use it on guns to remove light corrosion without cutting through the blueing and on fishing reels to remove salt crud and stains without wrecking the substrate......seems fine on plated, anodized, and bare metal of just about any kind.  Toughest of all:  It cleans up the "rust" spots on stainless boat rails like a charm!
Fairly pricey - $10 -$12 bucks for a couple ounce tube, but a little goes a LONG way.  Seems to have just about unlimited shelf life - I've got a tube on my gun bench that must be fifteen years old and working fine.  Lots of internet sources and can sometimes be found in hardware stores.

kapnd

I have some spots on my Penn Internationals that I'd like to polish out, but am not sure if the polish (Mothers) will affect the gold anodized finish?
Some spots look like waterspots, others are pretty obviously fish guck, very well baked into the finish.

Norcal Pescador

I'd try the Simichrome as Rockfish1 recommends. It's made for aluminum. You can also get it at most auto supply stores.
Rob

Measure once, cut twice. Or is it the other way around? ::)

"A good man knows his limits." - Inspector Harry Callahan, SFPD

Shark Hunter

I just use regular turtle wax chrome polish. It is cheap and you can find it ant any auto parts store. It works great on my Senators. If the corrosion is through the chrome plating, it won't take it off, but it shines it up and makes it harder to notice. ;D
Life is Good!

1bayouboy

Hi everyone,

  I'm knew to this board and to reel wrenching as well.   While I've always pulled the apart to
lube them, I never really looked at them as items ripe for some customization to make them better.
That's changed now....;)   I also do quite a lot of tinkering on guns and there are a lotof products and tools
that look like they apply to reel work.    For polishing metal I use Cratex wheels with a dremel or even drill.
They come in different grits and can put a mirror finish on most metals, especially if you develop a
delicate touch with them.

Darrel

T Rad

 :o I know this is somewhat of an old topic but the product Sheila Shine is recommended in a post and I thought I would comment on that. I teach chemistry and physics to high school kids and one of the things I make sure they know how to do is look up and read Material Safety Data Sheets, (MSDS). Any product sold in the US must have one of these sheets somewhere available, usually on the website, and workplaces are supposed to keep them for all products they use. Some workplaces are exempt or keep them in a central office location. The sheet for Sheila Shine is attached. This is a fairly hazardous product with quite a few health warnings. Being an old diabetic who has had cancer and asthma, I tend to pay a little more attention to these things than some folks, ....maybe. Be careful what you  use and how you use it. I worked five years as a plant chemist for a power plant start-up and five years as a chemical sales engineer for Calgon Industrial. Some things are just not worth the risk when a little elbow grease and safer products will do the job. Just my opinion and my 2 cents worth, as they say. Cheers!
"The one who thinks he knows a thing does not yet know it as he should."-- The Apostle Paul. "Illegitimis non carborundum." — General Joseph Stillwell

Shark Hunter

Good point T Rad!
Nobody fixed your Avatar yet?
Life is Good!

Hook um

A rod building friend of mine has been using Lime-A-Way to remove corrosion and salt build-up on Chrome/Stainless reel parts, rod guides, and roller tips for many years. It comes in a green bottle and can be found in most hardware stores (Lowes, Home Depot, Etc) 28oz for about $7.00. Just soak or dip the piece in Lime-A-Way for 2 minutes, rinse with water, and wipe dry. You may need a second treatment if the metal is in very bad shape.

I then coat the piece with TSI 321 and most look almost new.
Like others have mention it won't fix badly pitted metal parts, but this is as easy as it gets!

It does not harm rods, plastic, or threads but DO NOT USE ON ALUMINUM...


Maxed Out

#53
Quote from: codhead on January 30, 2011, 11:42:34 PM
Quote from: Sandbar33 on January 14, 2011, 03:31:32 PM
This gunk is typical baked on saltwater corrosion..... and stubborn as hell (lol)

Anything like this?



That's what I call salt corrosion


Yes that is corrosion under that reel seat, but in this case it is caused by electrolysis from 2 different metals. A big wad of grease in there probably would have totally prevented it from ever happening.

and greasing the screws is a must or you may find it impossible to remove screws later on......looks like one is stuck in that reel pictured. Time for a replacement reel seat.
We Must Never Forget Our Veterans....God Bless Them All !!

the_reel_doc

  There is also a product called Bar Keeper's Friend that works well. It comes in a container like Comet and is usually close by in the store. About $2 for a container. Wet the metal and sprinkle some on, let set for a couple of minutes and use a toothbrush to clean.

Tightlines667

Quote from: Hook um on January 23, 2014, 03:23:10 PM
...using Lime-A-Way to remove corrosion and salt build-up...
It does not harm rods, plastic, or threads but DO NOT USE ON ALUMINUM

Yep.
Hope springs eternal
for the consumate fishermen.

Eric Hensel

Quote from: kapnd on June 23, 2013, 09:34:20 PM
I have some spots on my Penn Internationals that I'd like to polish out, but am not sure if the polish (Mothers) will affect the gold anodized finish?
Some spots look like waterspots, others are pretty obviously fish guck, very well baked into the finish.

I haven't read the entire thread, but the manufacturers do us no favors when naming these products (some cleaners are solvents, some are abrasive).
Simichrome is an abrasive 'polish' that is used to make dull bare-metal shiny. It should not be used on metal with a coating (lacquer, anodising, etc) because it will remove the coating.

handi2

I have been using Blue Magic for years but purchased some of the Happich Simichrome Polish on Amazon for $25.95 for a large can. It is amazing..! The shine is much more brilliant than any other stuff I used. It does have the same ammonia smell as the Blue Magic.
OCD Reel Service & Repair
Gulf Breeze, FL

Maxed Out

I have tried tons of things thru the years, but hands down the best is Eagle One Nevr-Dull original wadding polish. Easily takes off 60 year old dried on grease, polishes all metals AND it also is the best at cleaning and shining penn sideplates. No mess or toxic odors and same wadding can be re-used. I buy mine at the local auto parts store for $6 or $7 and that can lasts a long time , just keep the lid on or the wadding will dry out.

Ted
We Must Never Forget Our Veterans....God Bless Them All !!

Alto Mare

Quote from: Max Doubt on November 27, 2014, 01:40:22 AM
I have tried tons of things thru the years, but hands down the best is Eagle One Nevr-Dull original wadding polish. Easily takes off 60 year old dried on grease, polishes all metals AND it also is the best at cleaning and shining penn sideplates. No mess or toxic odors and same wadding can be re-used. I buy mine at the local auto parts store for $6 or $7 and that can lasts a long time , just keep the lid on or the wadding will dry out.

Ted
You made me a believer ;) ;D.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.