alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Penn Reels - just as you find them
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: Penn Reels - just as you find them  (Read 435455 times)
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broadway
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Broadway Dom, New York City


« Reply #2685 on: October 21, 2020, 11:07:36 AM »

Be careful, Ted has a keen eye and will fill your house with vintage Penn Reels... ask me how I know. Cool
Nice buy, those are much less common with the hex click.
Best
Dom
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« Reply #2686 on: October 22, 2020, 08:40:36 PM »

    Here's a few pix of the LB60, that came along , in the deal. Pretty , darn clean ! I removed the line, for reuse (it is in "almost new" condition), and after looking at the spool, under the line, I would almost say the reel has never been fished ! I see no signs of any corrosion, anywhere, and with the exception of some minor "rash", the reel shows no scratches, dings, or gouges. I'm waiting to see the inside....it's very smooth , in operation...and I expect to see the "guts" looking as good as the "skin'.


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There's nothing wrong with a few "F's" on your record....Food, Fun, Flowers, Fishing, Friends, and Fun....to name just a few !
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« Reply #2687 on: October 22, 2020, 08:49:22 PM »

    Here's a pic of the 285 "badge":


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1badf350
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-Chris


« Reply #2688 on: October 25, 2020, 08:03:11 PM »

I got this 6/0 package recently. Box price indicates 1946-1949.
The weird thing is that the reel is partially numbered. I have an identical 6/0 in the identical box without any numbers. Im wondering if this could be a mismatch or if it could be one of the last lighthouse boxes to leave the factory with a partially numbered reel??? Someone hand wrote a date of 7/13/50 in the white circle just above the light. Purchase date maybe???


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« Last Edit: October 25, 2020, 08:06:55 PM by 1badf350 » Logged

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Bill B (Tarfu)
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« Reply #2689 on: October 26, 2020, 03:09:14 AM »

Chris, good looking reel....with a 1950 date I would put it in the era of using up old non-numbered parts and the "new" part numbering system.....Bill
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« Reply #2690 on: October 26, 2020, 04:31:13 AM »


 That's a beauty Chris. Pretty decent box too.

 I think Mike can answer your questions about the era of the reel, but I'd guess it's correct for the box
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« Reply #2691 on: October 26, 2020, 12:21:03 PM »

Good one, Chris !
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« Reply #2692 on: October 27, 2020, 04:59:22 AM »

Chris, nice find.
I have a 49. last year light house box, for a 9/0, the reel has partial part numbers as well.
Of course there's no way of authenticating the reel belongs to the box I guess, but I had it on good authority it was a match.

I guess this time frame was a transitional period where they commenced stamping part numbers on reels Huh?
Again, I put it as a 49, due to the presence of part numbers,, even though that price spanned from 46-49, but I classed it as 49,
As I didn't think part numbers would have been introduced earlier that 49...


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« Reply #2693 on: November 08, 2020, 11:42:09 AM »

Got a jigmaster 500 the other day ,when I got home I noticed the logo was side ways.

Kim


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-Chris


« Reply #2694 on: November 08, 2020, 01:45:11 PM »

Kim I’ve seen Senators with sideways logos. Here’s my 10/0 with sideways logo. If you turn the reel so the logo is straight, the sideplate looks like a first gen.


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-Chris

"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people and I require the same from them."
John Wayne as J.B. Books in "The Shootist"
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« Reply #2695 on: November 10, 2020, 01:54:20 PM »

Was there a Lefty version of the 10/0?  I have a 4/0LH and the logo is just like that, which would be straight up if the crank were mounted on the left being in the 5 O’Clock like my lefty (or a gen one). Having been in the manufacturing biz you really can’t waste anything if you’re going to survive and turn a profit.  How about this scenario, head plate was molded to be a lefty but the molder used the wrong medallion (R/H) positioned correctly for a lefty reel.  Solution, make a righty to conform to the “spec” of the medallion, a fully functional 100% reel.   There was no spec for the “proper” alignment of the text let alone the position as that moved around over time as well.  So screwed up lefty mold, stick in RH gears, problem solved?
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« Reply #2696 on: November 10, 2020, 06:18:29 PM »

Bob i would bring in to question the post and stand screw hole positions. I assume they were part if the mold and not drilled. In which case the simple explanation would be that the mold plug was inserted 90° off
« Last Edit: November 10, 2020, 06:19:12 PM by 1badf350 » Logged

-Chris

"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people and I require the same from them."
John Wayne as J.B. Books in "The Shootist"
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« Reply #2697 on: November 10, 2020, 07:44:22 PM »

Could be, I don't have my 4/0LH handy, but as I recall the headplate was simply flipped 180 degrees vertically (with the switched over internal gearing) and then mounted on the left of the spool moving the crank shaft from 7 to 5 O'Clock position with the holes, foot and posts, all lining up. My lefty is numbered but the crank is in the 5 O'Clock position, like a pre war, but on the left side. Who knows?  Never say never about Penn as Mike says.  Nice find, I got a boxed 140 from Swami partially numbered like your 10/0 with pricing to put it in 49 50.  Nothing wasted at Otto's.
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« Reply #2698 on: November 10, 2020, 08:01:57 PM »

Hi Chris,
I have an early 10/0 with drilled arbor,  coin edged c/w and early '40's handle, with that same 90degree misalignment of the logo. My first thought, on seeing it was that it was a 'lefty', but it isn't. Have you had the line off that reel? does it have a drilled arbor?
I have assumed that my 10/0, with drilled arbor, was the first of the second gen 10/0's - a 1941 reel, and that someone forgot to realign the logo before they commenced production of the 'new' 10/0's  Misaligned logo's seem to be a  relatively common feature of the early Penns.

Cheers
Martin
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« Reply #2699 on: November 11, 2020, 04:23:31 AM »

So, they had molds with the overall shape of the side plate.  The logo/model was a separate little button-shaped piece placed in the mold?  When the side plate is removed from the mold you wouldn't want to snatch the button out of the mold with it.  But if was just a friction fit then that could easily happen.  Maybe they were forever having to fuss around with the logo button to make sure it was still straight?
-s
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