alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial revo inshore
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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alantani
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« on: December 07, 2008, 08:32:51 AM »

i never fish fresh water so i actually do not own a reel this small, but i understand that these reels are quite popular. i could not find the schematics anywhere on the net.  if someone could find a link, i would appreciate it if you could post it.  i do have a hard copy of the schematics with key#'s and part #'s.  as is typical of ambassaduer schematics, there are no names given to any of the parts.  i hope you will not mind if i make up the names as i go. 

all i will do with this reel is replace a plain drag washer with a carbon fiber washer, grease all of the carbon fiber drag washers, and clean the bearings. 







remove the handle nut cap screw (key #75) and the handle nut cap (key #74).



remove the handle nut (key #73) with a 10mm wrench.



remove the handle (key #94).



remove the handle spring (key #71) and star (key #70).



remove the spring washers (key #69), the star clicker assembly (key #67 and 68), and the handle thrust washer (key #47).



back out the thumb screw (key #61) but leave in place. 





remove the two side plate screws (key #64 and 65).







rotate and remove the left side plate assembly (key #77).





remove the spool assembly (key #76).



there is one last inner right side plate screw (key #66) that will need to come out.





remove the right side plate (key #65).





here's an inside view of the right side plate bearing (key #53), the integrated anti-reverse roller bearing (no key #, translation - not user serviceable), and the roller bearing inner tube (key #46).  the right side plate bearing is 3x10x4mm.



remove the roller bearing inner tube (key #46) and set it aside.



take a moment now to brush a little grease on the inside of the right side plate and a little corrosion x to the anti-reverse roller bearing. 



now for the gear cluster.



in a new reel, the gear cluster should slide right off.



let's line everything up.  you see dry carbon fiber drag washers (key #42), stainless steel washers (key #43, 44 and 45), the main gear (key #41) and a fiber washer (key #40).



the carbon fiber drag washers inside the gear are 9x25x0.5mm. 



the fiber washer under the gear is 8x20x0.85mm. 



we are going to substitute a carbontex drag washer from smoothdrag.com for this fiber washer. smoothdrag has a set of four washers intended for the round ambassaduers.   the smallest one of that set goes underneath the main gear and is about 20mm.  this is the one that i will be using.  you could also put a
a penn ht-100 drag washer underneath the gear.  the part # for this washer is #6-965 and the dimensions of this drag washer are 8x25x0.85mm.  this washer would have to be cut down to 20mm. 

let's grease all of the drag washers with cal's drag grease.



install the carbontex drag washer.



rebuild the drag stack.



install the roller bearing inner tube (key #46).



install the right side plate (key #51).





install the inner right side plate screw (key #66).



install the two outer right side plate screws (key #64 and 65). 



check the function of the free spool thumb bar (key #4).



check the function of the anti-reverse system.



the service for the right side plate is now complete.  assuming this reel will never see salt water, this is the last time you should need to open up the right side plate.  the greased carbon fiber drag washes should stay smooth forever. 

now for the most difficult part of the rebuild. 



we are going to pull the right spool bearing, clean it, relube it and reinstall it.  a cross pin very inconveniently holds the bearing in place.  if this pin is lost or damaged, you may have to make another from stainless steel welding rod stock, or buy a new spool and repeat the proceedure all over again.  let us proceed.

you've seen this modified pair of vise grips in the bearings post. 



we will use it to push the cross pin out half way.  this pin was pushed out easily.  your cross pin may not be so.



now i am going to take the smallest blade from a jeweler's screwdriver set.



it goes into the drill press chuck.



using the drill press, the cross pin is easily and cleanly removed.  if you try to pull the cross pin out with a pair of pliers, you may damage it.  been there. 



the right spool bearing slides right off.  it is 5x11x4mm.



a number 1 ringed owner flyliner hook allows you to easily remove the retaining rings and shields from these bearings.  a sharper hook does make a difference. 



the bearing is cleaned with carburator cleaner and compressed air, lubed and reinstalled. 



the cross pin is centered with the vise grips.



now that the bearing is open, it can be properly cleaned and relubed after every fishing trip without having to remove the cross pin.



the owner of this particular reel requested a lighter lubricant because this reel will never see salt water.  there are many to choose from.  i've selected oust met-ol from smoothdrag.com.



install the spool assembly (key #78).



remove the left side plate bearing retaining ring (key #69).



the left side plate bearing (key #68) is 3x10x4mm.  remove the bearing with your homemade bearing puller.



remove the retaining rings and shields.



clean the bearing with carburator cleaner and compressed air, reinstall the bearing (key #68), reinstall the retaining ring (key #69) and lube the bearing.



place a small dab of grease on the left side plate retaining thumb screw (key #61) and select the number of brakes that you wish to use.



install the left side plate (key #51) and tighten down the thumb screw (key #61).



remove the right side plate bearing cap assembly (key #56-60).



remove the click plate (key #55), the bearing retaining ring (key #54) and the right side plate bearing (key #53).  the right side plate bearing measures 3x10x4mm.  note that a bearing thrust washer (key #52) remains in place in the right side plate. 



clean the bearing (key #53) with carburator cleaner and compressed air, then lube and reinstall it.  reinstall the retaining ring (key #54), the click plate (key #55) and the right side plate bearing cap assembly (key #56-60).  adjust the bearing cap until you have zero load and zero freeplay.  it may be tighted slightly at a later time, depending upon conditions on the water. 



install the thrust washer (key #47), star click assembly (key #67 and 68), and the two spring washers (key #69) oriented "()".



install the star (key #70).  as you turn the star clockwise down, it will seat against the click tongue (key #68).  push in the click tongue manually and continue to turn the star clockwise until it seats fully. 



install the handle washer spring (key #71).



add a light coat of grease and install the handle (key #72 or 94).



install the handle nut (key #73), the handle nut collar (key #74) and the handle nut collar screw (key #75).  make sure that the handle nut is seated properly. 



add a small amount of oil to the handle grip.



check freespool.



and we're done!  well, almost.  there was a slight problem with this reel.  i bottomed out the star to check for the maximum drag pressure and it got only 8 pounds of drag.  the manager of my local tackle shop told me that this reel was supposed to get over 20 pounds of drag.  i initially thought that was odd, because that amount of drag pressure would most assuredly shred the main and pinion gears.  i had him check another revo inshore that he had in stock and the star on this reel also bottomed out at 8 pounds. 

to increase the drag range, i made a slight modification to the order of the spring washers (key #69).



i placed one spring washer (key #69) underneath the anti-reverse roller bearing inner tube (key #46).



that raised up the lip of the inner tube (key #46).



after reassembling the reel, i was able to get an easy 15#'s of drag. i opted to not push the reel further because concerns regarding possible damage the main and pinion gears at those higher ranges. 

now, for a few comments.  as a strictly salt water guy, i feel a bit uneasy about telling you how to set up a bass reels, but many of the principles are the same, whether you are fishing 2# test or 200#. 

first, understand that a full set greased carbon fiber drag washers will INCREASE your functional drag range.  i define a functional drag as being able to pick a weight, say 10 pounds, tie off that much lead to the line, lift up the rod to a 45 degree angle on the butt and be able to adjust the drag until the weight drops one foot every five seconds.  no other drag system, except greased carbon fiber, will deliver that level of performance over the lifetime of the reel.  do this drag washer upgrade one time and you will never have to worry about it again. 
consider that a properly functioning drag washer may allow you to use thinner diameter line.  thinner diameter line might deliver more hookups and fewer breakoffs.  more hookups and fewer breakoffs could mean the difference between placing in a tournament, or winning, or going home a loser. 

secondly, bearings should be cleaned and lubed after every trip.  this should apply to tournament bass guys as well as serious offshore fishermen.  if you are required to cast in order to deliver a bait or jig to a fish, then casting distance and accuracy are key.  shielded bearings will only trap water, causing failure of the bearing.  ceramic bearings will not help.  remember, the races are still stainless steel.  a clean, open, all stainless abec-5 bearing that is routinely serviced and properly lubed, should allow your reel to perform at it's best.  the rest is up to you. 

finally, my opinion of the reel?  hey, i'm a strictly salt water guy.  um, it's expensive, very smooth, and little.  what else can i say?  pick one up, cradle it in your hands, turn the handle a few times and decide for yourself if it's worth the asking price.  good hunting, gentlemen!
« Last Edit: May 21, 2009, 04:00:16 PM by alantani » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2009, 10:26:17 PM »

here are the schematics.  thanks to bryan young!

http://www.abugarcia.com/product_schematic.php?id=239.240.1716#
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« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2009, 08:57:49 PM »

Quote


Hi Alan,

i followed your thread here today (http://www.fishingouting.com/forums/...-rebuild-2434/) by placing a washer underneath the anti reverse bearing.

i noted that when i loosen the drag, it takes a lot more effort to crank and feels heavy! but as i tighten the drag, it feels so much easier to crank (like before i did the switching).

is this normal? did i do anything wrong?






juan, it should work just fine. it sounds like the drag stack is too tall. are you sure you removed the old drag washer under the gear before putting the new one in? that would be the easiest and most common problem. otherwise, you actually could just leave it clamped down and it should work just fine. alan



Quote


Hi Alan,

yer right. i didnt changed the old drag washer (blue fibre piece) under the gear!

anyway i have put everything back in place like it was stock before since i dont need the extra drag.

thanks for the writeup. makes it so much easy for newbie like me to clean the reel ourselves.

thx!



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« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2010, 07:58:46 AM »

Quote from: oldsmoky666

hey alan thanks for all the helpful pictures. i think i may have a slightly different real it has this kinda spool.



it also seems like the handle spring is just flat with no spring action is that ok?



i was also wondering about this washer on top of the gear cluster is it supposed to be there?


 
also is it ok to put grease on the old fiber drag washer if it is still ok?  lastly do you use that drag grease on all the other drag washers that are located inside the the dish of the main gear?  thanks for the help and sorry if the pictures are a little funky.  thanks, ben

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« Reply #4 on: August 01, 2010, 11:11:53 PM »

you guys are really gonna hate me for this.

the revo has a stainless steel ratched gear that bangs up against the kick lever when you turn the handle. this kick lever then pushes to thumb bar up and clicks the reel back into gear. the kick lever is made of a softer alloy. it's some type of pot metal. it is not cast surgical grade 316 stainless steel. that's what it has to be made out of. and it's not. so what is happening is that the top of the kick lever is eventually worn away. now suddenly the reel will not go back into gear. ambassaduer apparently has recognized this problem and has placed a stainless steel insert into the kick lever. this will take care of the problem.
 
the only issue remaining is to identify those reels that have a kick lever with a stainless steel insert, and those that do not. i know i've missed a couple of staff meetings, but i have not heard of this being discussed prior. here are the photos.
 

 
here's the ratched gear and kick lever. see how the kick lever is worn away?
 

 
the corner is completely gone!
 

 

 
it's not hard to change. you have to remove the two screws that hold the jack plate and hope those two springs don't take flight.
 

 
here's another one with the same problem.
 

 
this may help someone identify the reel if needed in the future.
 

 
here's the worn kick lever.
 

 

 

 
ok, so what i did was i had these reels to fix back in april and called ambassaduer for 2 months looking for replacement kick levers. they kept on saying that they were on back order, first until june, then july. the last time i called, the nice lady at ambassaduer decided to connect me to the service department for some unknown reason. i spoke to a guy there named sonny. i explained my problem, didn't tell him who i was or where i was, just told him that i had two reels with the same problem and i had them cracked open and was waiting for parts. so get this. the guy says that he will pull apart two reels and give me the kick levers out of these reels. that's right. he did just that and they arrive 5 days later. no charge, but, um, also no real explanation.
 

 
so here's where i'm at right now. first, the original revos apparently have a kick lever that is made of a softer metal alloy and a hard stainless steel ratchet gear underneath the main gear. in at least two reels that i've seen, the kick lever was chewed up. ambassaduer must be aware of this issue because they send me a kick lever with a stainless steel insert that i believe will totally eliminate this problem. second, in my conversations with abu, i made a friend and his name is sonny. and now i'm going to kick him in the teeth after he did me a favor and i'm going to post a problem about his reels. look guys, i feel really bad about this, but you have to know. maybe i missed it, but did ambassaduer come out with a service advisory telling people that there was a problem with the revos? if they didn't, it might be a good idea, but far be it from me to tell a reel company what to do with their own reels.........
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« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2010, 02:45:48 PM »

Quote

Hey, I wanted to break down my Inshore for a quick service today, but ran into a bit of a problem. I have used the reel extensively the past two month with little maintenance, and the reel is long over due and starting to show signs of Salt water corrosion. Okay, here is the dilemma.... the spool won't come out. it moves about an 1/8 of an inch, but refuses to come all the way out. And in order to open the right side plate cover, there is a third screw hidden inside the spool chamber. (that I can't access b/c the spool is stuck)! Any chance you have seen this before and possibly have an idea on how to remove the spool? Any thoughts? Your help is much appreciated.
 
Thanks,
Dan



no, it's just stuck. if you have straight mono, then dig into it with an old screwdriver and pop the spool out.  you'll have to replace the mono afterwards.  alan


Quote

what if I have Braid? I tried to pry it off with a screw driver but this sucker is stuck.


have someone hold the reel for you, then dig into the spool with two wooden chopsticks at 180 degrees from each other and lift!  


Quote


I took the line off, and still can't get the spool to come out. Maybe my fingers aren't strong enough? I'll put some mono on and give the chop sticks a shot. I am gettin gthe feeling something is preventing it from coming out. Maybe the spool shaft is rusted to the pinion gear? Or perhaps the pin that holds the bearing onto the spool has been dislodged and is catching on the frame? I'm at a loss...and I can't seem to muscle it. I'm ready to start bashing, AH!




Quote

Update: I spooled up some mono as suggested and your screwdriver trick did the job. Thank you once again, for your expert advise. You're broad expansion of knowledge is amazing and really has a huge impact on the fishing community. Thanks again. Now that my Revo Inshore is open, I need to clean her up. Things look bad, I may be in tough for some new bearings...we'll see. BTW, I have only used this reel for a few months, and despite being advertised for Salt water. The reel's frame is starting to corrode(sort of bubble effect from the inside of the metal alloy frame, particularly around the reel seat. Early stages of pitting?). I wash it down after each use, and broke it down for a full clean lube about a month ago. Its a shame. These reels offer excellent performance for inshore fisherman of the Bay Area, perfect for halibut, striper, lingcod, and RF. However the metal frame obviously can't withstand the salt, and it's the reels ultimate down fall.




put a little grease on an old toothbrush and brush up the frame, clean off the old junk and leave a littel grease residue behind.  you should be fine.  what about the right spool bearing under the cross pin.  did you check it?  alan


Quote

Thanks. There was corrosion buildup all throughout the real,including the bearings. The most corrosion/damage came around the tension knob and the bearing inside. And also the frame, some sort of pitting. I just grinded it off and left some grease residue as you suggested. The right side spool bearing was okay. I pulled the shields on all of them and cleaned them up with carb cleaner and compressed air. They are all spinning freely and quietly again, althought the freespool isn't 100% of what it once was. But thats okay. The big problem however, as you found in previous Revos, is the chewed up kick lever. So, any chance you have any extra's laying around or might be able to get some(you mentioned making a friend from Abu, Sonny)? If not, any advise on how to go about aquiring some would be a big help. I only need one for myself, but two of my friends who also have the Revo Inshore requested that i get one for each of them aswell. Thanks again, you have been a huge help!







call ambassaduer at 800-228-4272 and ask the nice lady for a kick lever for your revo.  tell her you need the new kick lever with the stainless steel insert.  if she says that she does not have one, ask to speak to sonny. if sonny says that he does not have one, or if they refuse to transfer you, then ask for a plain kick lever.  if they tell you that they do not have any, then you are screwed. let me know and we will see about a modification that might work.  we may have to start making them ourselves.  alan 
« Last Edit: September 18, 2010, 03:11:58 PM by alantani » Logged

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« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2010, 10:10:41 AM »

Quote from: Master Chief;1983035
Here is the new part #? This is the reply.
 
"Chad,
I spoke to our reel technician and got the part number for the new kick lever.
The part number is 1156749 and they are available for $2.50 each plus s&h.
You may order parts direct with credit card at 1-800-228-4272..

Thank you,
Nissa Lundquist
Reel Service Representative
Pure Fishing Inc.
a subsidiary of JARDEN Corp."

Hope this helps......

thank you, master chief. i just called and ordered 10. the total came out to $34. good thing. i have another revo headed my way with the same problem. alan
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« Reply #7 on: October 19, 2010, 06:59:30 AM »

Alan,
 
Thanks for maintaining such a great fishing reel website.  Like most people out there, I often refer to your site for info on reels and pictures.  I got one of the JDM version of the Revo Toro, after asking you which you thought would cast farther.  It casts great, thanks!  I was recently servicing it and saw the posts on your site about the Revo kick lever, it turns out that the JDM version has the new kick lever.  I've been using it for about 10 months now targeting all kinds of fish from small porgies and sea bass to big blues and stripers.  The kick lever held up well, even when I engaged the gears with striped bass in the 35-50lb range running against the clicker.  The thing is that with a fish that big on the other end, running against the drag, is when I tried to stop them by putting more pressure on them (because I was afraid to let them run far with such little line capacity) the level wind assembly starts to break.  All of the fish for some reason ran to the left on the longest, hardest run.  I landed fish up to 25lbs, the bigger ones all got away.
 
Here's a few pics that show how the lever wore under heavy loads:







Here's the damage from trying to overpower very large, angry fish:

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« Reply #8 on: November 14, 2010, 02:02:51 AM »

I own a Revo Winch which after about a year fishing in estuary got problem with free spool mechanism. It does not return automatically as you retrieve the line. Do you think it is related to worn kick lever as well?
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« Reply #9 on: November 15, 2010, 10:56:14 AM »

yes, that's what it has to be.  if you have trouble getting one from ambassaduer, let me know.  alan
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« Reply #10 on: November 22, 2010, 12:31:03 AM »

Here are a couple of pictures of the Abu Revo Inshore LTD (limited Australian edition). Not too disimilar to the Revo Elite Ataksaki but half the price. Very nice looking reel. EVA foam grips add a little extra bling to the reel. The internals are like those posted by oldsmokey66. Different to the Inshore shown in the tutorial.





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« Reply #11 on: January 02, 2011, 09:24:07 AM »

Your site is a great resource.  Sincerely appreciate your efforts on this one.

I followed your guide for my Revo Inshore and everything came back together just fine, but the break seems to always be moderately tight.

Being the break always seems to be tighter, it has dramatically effected my casting distance.

Anyone have some suggestions as to what I did wrong to bring this on?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.



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« Reply #12 on: January 02, 2011, 10:45:58 AM »

that one could be anything.  first, i'd back off all the brakes and see how the spool spins.  if you can get 10-15 seconds of freespool, then try the brakes again, first two, then three, then 6 to get your desired level of resistance.  alan
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« Reply #13 on: November 27, 2011, 01:58:23 AM »

Just felt like adding these to the hall of shame!,  shows the how the corroding alu frame plates actually pulverizes.   The reel on the picture
belongs to a well known outdoor writer over here, so i have a pretty god picture of it's use, and that was mainly
freshwater.





But I got the reel up and running for another season, but had to use both punch and hammer to straighten things up  Angry
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« Reply #14 on: November 27, 2011, 05:08:57 AM »

"Swedish Engineered,Made in Korea" explains a lot. Doubt if these problems would have arisen had these reels been made in Sweden. I have no issues with cheap labour, only cheap materials.
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