alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Long Beach 66N - 2 dogs on the bridge
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
October 15, 2019, 04:54:47 PM *
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Author Topic: Long Beach 66N - 2 dogs on the bridge  (Read 14271 times)
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broschro
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« Reply #30 on: April 10, 2016, 05:52:03 AM »

That's a pretty cool looking reel. Looks kinda like a 349 with the narrow spool.
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Ron Jones
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« Reply #31 on: April 10, 2016, 12:40:23 PM »

And that is the size of Alan's future 113HNN! I am chomping at the bit.

Ron
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Ronald Jones
To those who have gone to sea and returned and to those who have gone to sea and will never return
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Rothmar2
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« Reply #32 on: April 10, 2016, 04:39:45 PM »

Mattman's post on narrowing squidder and 500 spools has reminded me I've neglected to give Chris (Rothmar2) credit for narrowing the 29M-66 spool to 501 width for me - the standard 66 spool is '99' width. To make the short long beach spool, we sourced a 1/2-28 UEFN die for the 'lock nut' and Chris turned the clicker end to length and hand filed the recesses for the clicker. Hopefully he has photos of the process he used.
Mike

Yep, I have a few photos of the process, but as I said on Mattman's Squidder post, I won't be able to post pix until next week. Thanks for the reco Mike.
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Rothmar2
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« Reply #33 on: April 17, 2016, 06:23:29 PM »

As mentioned, here is a brief rundown of modifying the spool arbor for the 66N....

Remove the cheeks and set the arbor up in the 3 jaw. Check for trueness with the dial gauge. If I was going to do more of this, I would set up a proper between centres rig. Something I would have to make.



Machine back the shoulder for the cheeks to butt up against. For memory, I think it was about 12-13mm to be cut to get the arbor suitable for 501 width.



Check with micrometer to get correct diametre for the cheeks to push over



Prepare the next section to be threaded. Note groove cut for thread against the end of the cheek shoulder.



Using the tail stock to keep the 1/2-28 UEFN die square to the shaft to make first cuts with lathe out of gear, then run the die right up



Once thread cut, quick check with the cheek and the clamping nut, all good.



Measure the rounded diametre of the ratchet seat, and continue this into the shaft. The flats will be carefully filed in later. No choice on this, no mill.



Then machine the shaft end diametre (which spins in the bushings), checking diametre with micrometer



Measure for  length and make a slight groove with the point of the tool



And cut away the excess length with the hand-saw. The new end was rounded over with a fine file and emery paper.



Do a final check by spinning the left end plate on the end of the arbour to check the size.

Removed arbour from the lathe



The flats filed and ratchet cog installed. I made the flats so the cog had to be tapped on, and then it was secured with a centre pop across the rounded end of the key. Obviously this last step done after all the cheeks and securing nuts fitted.



And the assembled reel (prior to Mike adding additional upgrades).




« Last Edit: October 20, 2017, 02:46:50 AM by Rothmar2 » Logged
mhc
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« Reply #34 on: April 19, 2016, 02:19:07 AM »

Thanks again Chris - obviously I have seen the finished spool, but it is always fascinating to see the photos of how you made it happen.
Mike
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It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.
Rothmar2
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« Reply #35 on: April 19, 2016, 03:39:29 AM »

No problem Mike, I hope this helps and inspires others to give it a shot.
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kmstorm64
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« Reply #36 on: August 07, 2018, 09:24:02 AM »

Damn that was impressive stuff!
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Bad day of fishing still beats a good day at work!
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