Painting Newell seats and bars.

Started by PacRat, January 08, 2016, 07:14:45 PM

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jurelometer

Hey Sal,

Powder coated wood window frames is pretty swank stuff.

Just spent the evening reading up a bit on the newer powder coating techniques and coating wood and plastic.  It's  all your fault  ;D   

Some pretty amazing stuff out there now, but  mostly requiring a full-on factory setting.   I suspect that  if the market was large enough there would eventually be a way to do some of this stuff in a small shop environment- esp dye sublimation (sooo cool).    Powder coating of plastic parts is probably something that has to be done when the part is new to get a good finish.

I really want to see if there is a way to powder coat MDF in a small shop.   But the last thing I need is another project!

Getting back on topic- FWIW:  Personally, I would be nervous about any kind of painting of plastic reel parts.  Don't know how good it would look after a bit of use, and the function would be primarily cosmetic.   With aluminum parts there are some reasonable choices. 

oc1

#16
To get off topic again, I don't think there is any reason to be ashamed of honest cosmetic wear on fishing reels, boats or ford trucks.  It adds character.  Embrace it and your life will be easier.  Besides, a poor restoration usually looks worse than the original patina.

However, if it's for business and that's what the customer wants, then good on you for being market savvy and finding a better finish.

-steve

mike1010

What was the original finish that Newell used on aluminum seats and bars?  I'm guessing it was powder, because it looks too thick for anodizing, at least to my inexpert eyes.  Thanks.

Mike

reel man

The original aluminum parts were anodized then painted with a semi flat black finish that was baked on for a few minutes.  If the parts were hard anodized they were too shiny, and were too dull with stage 1 process.

I've found Krylon semi flat black does a very nice job bringing the finish back to original.  With no baking needed.

mike1010


plankton

Quote from: reel man on February 03, 2017, 09:23:14 PM
The original aluminum parts were anodized then painted with a semi flat black finish that was baked on for a few minutes.  If the parts were hard anodized they were too shiny, and were too dull with stage 1 process.

I've found Krylon semi flat black does a very nice job bringing the finish back to original.  With no baking needed.

Hey guys, perhaps you've seen my other thread about the 220-F Blackie I'm cleaning up. I'm thinking of painting the seat and bars to give them some better protection and a nicer look.

It doesn't seem like we have Krylon paint over here. Would something like this work?

https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-metalshield-300g-satin-black-epoxy-enamel-spray-paint_p1400829

I'd prefer something that doesn't need heating. Is there any way to tell if a paint won't need heating, or how can I tell once I've painted the parts whether they would benefit from some heat?

Thanks.


ez2cdave

I was just going to recommend an Epoxy paint, but you have already gone in that direction.

Getting all the old finish off and surface preparation, before painting, should be addressed.

Tight Lines !

oc1

If you paint an old reel, it will look like an old reel that someone painted.  It has a nice experienced look to it now.
-steve

George6308

#23
I have painted several Penn Spinfisher reels with Brownel's Aluma-Hyde. It holds up well in salt water. It is available in flat and semi-gloss black. If should work on Newell parts. It is designed to refinish anodized firearm receivers.
This 710 Greenie was refinished in flat black. The 710Z was done in semi-gloss black.

FishNinJay

#24
on a related side-topic.. what about the raised letters and numbers?

Any suggestions on a shiny silver/chrome paint to touch-up the numbers? And likewise, to fill-in the recessed black around it?
Not a huge issue.. just thought of it now while reading this thread.

Thanks..

Swami805

Those badges will pop out from the side plate. Use black spray paint and let it dry. Stretch some fabric on something flat and put some solvent like lacquer thinner on it and rub the paint off the raised lettering, it won't take off the silver. I used some generic rattle can paint from the big box store. Learned this from Jerry(reelman). Works like a charm. Add a little glue to hold the badge back in, I used some silicone seal so I could get them out again if I wanted. You'll see 2 little "pins" sticking out of the inside the sideplate, push those pins and the badge should pop out.
Do what you can with that you have where you are

ez2cdave

Quote from: oc1 on August 13, 2019, 07:18:23 PMIt has a nice experienced look to it now.

-steve

Steve,

At least you didn't use the word "patina" . . . LOL !

Tight Lines !