alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Tutorial Installing IAR bearing
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: Tutorial Installing IAR bearing  (Read 50199 times)
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fishingjack
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« Reply #30 on: February 24, 2014, 04:08:40 AM »

ok third time in trying to write this thanks to BSODs!  Angry

After 2 days I finally got around to reassembling the reel which had sat in bits since replacing the AR bearing. The loctite seems to have done the trick. With a gentle check the bearing seems locked into the collar of the side plate. Before loctite it would drop straight through. I'm a little bit worried how it will fair under a heavy drag. Watch out knuckles! The plan at the moment is only to use it for carp in the UK. I have better reels for the Thai catfish now.

So here are pictures of the removed AR bearing, with the pin that dropped out. You may be able to see that the circular neck got a bit mis-shaped. I managed to tap it back with a hammer to being round again.


sidelate with AR bearing removed


AR bearing with a pin dropped out. Side plate screw also fell out but went back in easily.


Damaged bearing


Neck of side plate a little bit bent


Hammered it back gently, as good as new!

I have fished with the reel a few times since. Now fish have been hooked to test the reel yet. It's funny, it may be just me but the reel feels brand new again! Maybe I'm fooling myself.  Grin

Last year I fitted the spool with ceramic bearings. Not a huge change as most energy in the cast is lost through the levelwind, which in this C3 model, is not using bearings for the worm gear or the cog driving it on the side plate.


Bearing fixed in place from below


Bearing fixed in place from above


Side plate reassembled


Reel reassembled




Well I'm not sure he has noticed the change but he didn't say anything bad about the reel.
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0119
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« Reply #31 on: February 24, 2014, 04:53:41 AM »

You must have a real knack for lobing those bread balls with a casting reel.  Ive never seen anyone try it with a multiplier.
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Unutt
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« Reply #32 on: August 28, 2014, 11:50:03 AM »

I replace the IAR bearings on many of my reels.  Many come with HF1012 bearings.  I usually replace with HF1008 bearings.  I press the bearing in until the bottom is flush with the side plate.  Changing from 1012 to 1008 makes a discernible difference in how easy it is to turn the handle.  I use the original anti reverse sleeve, which leaves an extra 4 millimeters exposed, but it cannot be seen under the drag knob anyway.

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So many reels, so little time.
Nicko_Cairns
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« Reply #33 on: January 20, 2015, 01:45:27 AM »

Great post, thanks!
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Kayote
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« Reply #34 on: February 25, 2015, 04:10:36 PM »

I may be missing something here. On my Trinidad 14 there is a built in ring above the roller clutch bearing. I can't push straight through because it's flush inside. This seems to be set up different than the reel in the pictures. I just can't figure out how to push the old bearing out. Here are some pics of my reel.


* RSCN0400 (1024x768).jpg (257.05 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 542 times.)

* RSCN0399 (1024x768).jpg (341.34 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 567 times.)

* RSCN0398 (1024x768).jpg (389.12 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 530 times.)
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #35 on: February 25, 2015, 05:00:25 PM »

Oh no...you are in a pickle.  I need to think about this one.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
ReelClean
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« Reply #36 on: February 25, 2015, 08:07:00 PM »

Find a washer say 2mm wider than the ID of the inner diameter of the bearing cage on the bottom.  Grind the sides of the washer and make it an oval shape with the width about, say, 4 or 5 mm less than the cage ID. With abit of adjustment you should be able to tilt and slide the washer inside the bearing, then it should lay flat on the cage and allow you something to beat on to drift it out.

Best I can think of....

alternatively, just slide a screwdriver in there and flog it out going side to side if you don't really want the bearing Grin

cheers
Steve
« Last Edit: April 08, 2015, 07:28:14 PM by ReelClean » Logged

Specialist Daiwa reel service, including Magseal.
alantani
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« Reply #37 on: February 25, 2015, 08:52:20 PM »

i use one of these to pry, pound, tap, wiggle or generally coax the case out. 

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Kayote
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« Reply #38 on: February 27, 2015, 01:13:14 PM »

Just wanted to follow up on the roller clutch bearing that was stuck in my Trinidad 14. I tried making a tool and that didn't work because of my tool making skills. Tried forcing it out with a screwdriver and I could see myself damaging the side plate and couldn't budge it. Grinding down the oval washer worked like a charm. An 8 mm socket fit the hole perfectly and I set a 22 mm socket under the side plate for support and lightly tapped it out. Thanks everybody. That was incredibly frustrating. I had to walk away and come back to it later. Now I own it. Thanks again. I included a couple shots from the process. The last shot is how I crusted up the reel last summer.



* RSCN0422 (1024x768).jpg (446.55 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 561 times.)

* RSCN0421 (1024x768).jpg (453.25 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 500 times.)

* DSCN0420 (1024x768).jpg (354.49 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 484 times.)

* 2014-08-09_00001.jpg (126.84 KB, 800x450 - viewed 570 times.)
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #39 on: February 27, 2015, 02:16:32 PM »

That is awesome.  I was twisting my head on how an oval shaped washer would work.  Learned something new today...it's a great day.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
Tightlines666
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« Reply #40 on: February 27, 2015, 02:22:36 PM »

This would make a good addition to the 'tip of the day' thread.  Well done!
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« Reply #41 on: February 27, 2015, 04:46:16 PM »

WOW, that is a great idea.  I bet that becomes one of my go to tools.
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ReelClean
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« Reply #42 on: February 28, 2015, 01:51:09 AM »

YA MEAN IT ACTUALLY WORKED?Huh?
Well there ya go....... Smiley
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exp2000
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« Reply #43 on: April 09, 2018, 04:57:33 AM »

Find a washer say 2mm wider than the ID of the inner diameter of the bearing cage on the bottom.  Grind the sides of the washer and make it an oval shape with the width about, say, 4 or 5 mm less than the cage ID. With abit of adjustment you should be able to tilt and slide the washer inside the bearing, then it should lay flat on the cage and allow you something to beat on to drift it out.

Very clever Steve.  Shocked
~
« Last Edit: April 09, 2018, 04:58:27 AM by exp2000 » Logged
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