alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Shimano Tranx: Service Tutorial and Maintenance Tips
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
June 02, 2020, 02:51:43 PM *
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Author Topic: Shimano Tranx: Service Tutorial and Maintenance Tips  (Read 33354 times)
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Cor
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« Reply #15 on: January 29, 2019, 10:12:11 PM »

Was looking at Marks post, http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=17424.msg250458#msg250458 and thought I'll show you my well used pair, to compare with his immaculate ones.

Also a photo of the reason why they look the way they do, fishing on rocks and fish that drag rod and reel around.

It has crossed my mind to try to remove the silver colour from the reel frames and make them black, anyone have any idea how to do that?

The arrow on the reel shows where the Clutch Bar Guide (BNT4483) has been removed from the one reel, Ill write some updates to this thread later and cover that.


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« Last Edit: January 30, 2019, 12:22:28 PM by Cor » Logged

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« Reply #16 on: January 30, 2019, 12:11:04 PM »

Just to add some further information to my comment http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=17424.msg186764#msg186764 above.

Firstly I think that my view expressed above is still a reasonable representation of my experience of the reels.

My oldest one is now in its 5th year of service, although I use all three, this is the one I use most, probably more then double of the others.

Most of the parts I replaced during this time can be seen as wear & tear related though Ive never owned similar reels so its difficult to compare the service I receive from the Tranxes with another reel.

I still think the amount of servicing required is a serious nuisance and perhaps these reels are not ideal for what I do with them, but they certainly are good for my needs!   The lack of spares in S.A. should be a serious consideration for someone here thinking to purchase one.    I now keep an inventory of about $200 worth of spares which will grow over time. Shocked

Subsequent to my above comment:-
   I broke two Pawl Caps BNT3595
   In my oldest reel Ive removed the Clutch Bar Guide A  BNT4483.   Both sides have become fairly scarred and because of the flex of the Clutch Bar, it causes the clutch bar to wedge and to stick.   This solution does not seem to have any negative effects so Ive not bothered to source new Clutch Bar Guide As    See above photo.
   I replaced the Belleville washers as the old ones became nearly completely flat.
   I have mentioned before that the spool is of very soft aluminium or some other alloy.  I now happened to drop another spool, after having warned everybody against this, I put it down on my work bench and it rolled of.   Luckily it is still functional but has a significant dent. Cry Cry
   I have replaced the whole level wind mechanism, all bushes and e clips, spacers, bushings and line guide, everything on my oldest reel.   I do think the old line guide may still be functional and will put it back some time to test this.

A final positive comment, the fine tooth gears in these reels last pretty well!   My oldest one has not developed a roughness that can be attributed to gears.    My Diawa reels used to last one season before they started to feel like an old diesel engine.

All three my reels are mechanically sound and still work well, though perhaps they do not look so good.   Still caught a fish today on the oldest one!
« Last Edit: January 31, 2019, 09:30:05 PM by Cor » Logged

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« Reply #17 on: February 05, 2019, 06:48:02 AM »

Great info on how these reels have been standing up. I have to keep reminding people that just because it is called a TranX it is not a 500 so fish it accordingly.
Ref worm gear and pawl wear. I continually tell customers to lube exposed key spots but, of course, they dont. I now use Bell synthetic bicycle chain lube and am very happy with its longevity. It is very slick, weather resistant and oil or grease does not compare to it In my opinion.
Muskie fishers do use heavier baits so casting distance is not an issue. Iconography know how or if it would interfere with lighter tackle or baits.
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« Reply #18 on: June 11, 2019, 12:17:30 PM »

John

do you know if the bearing on the spool is the same size of the bearing on the left side plate part bnt4488 ?

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« Reply #19 on: November 23, 2019, 11:02:00 PM »

John

do you know if the bearing on the spool is the same size of the bearing on the left side plate part bnt4488 ?


Only saw this now, BNT4479 right hand spool is 6X12X4 according to my records (which is sometimes suspect), the one in the left is smaller, but I've never measured it.   Sorry
Happened to find it now  BNT4488 = 4X11X4  (also standard on many Daiwa Conventional spools)

« Last Edit: November 24, 2019, 10:43:37 AM by Cor » Logged

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« Reply #20 on: November 23, 2019, 11:08:30 PM »

The only part that gives regular issues on this reel is the level winding mechanism, as I have grumbled about before.   I have noted that its the price I have to pay for the convenience of using a reel like that!
My service routine is to clean and oil it every 2nd or 3rd days fishing, but that seems to make little difference and I replace the Line guide pawl (BNT4460)  twice per season (6months) and the Worm Shaft (BNT4465) once.
Two things happen to the reel, it either just bunches the line and becomes unusable, or alternatively the Line Guide Pawl climbs up on to the Worm Shaft, this causes the Pawl Cap  (BNT3595) to break, damage to the Worm Shaft and you end up losing the Line guide Pawl and spacer as well, so more parts to replace.

It is essential to carry a spare reel if you depend on this one and it takes me minimum 2 hours to replace everything.

Just finished servicing again and took these photos.



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« Last Edit: November 23, 2019, 11:10:37 PM by Cor » Logged

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« Reply #21 on: November 24, 2019, 07:49:11 AM »

there is often a little up and down play in these pawls.  too much and they "jump the track" and the result is that they carve their own path.  the photo is a really good example. 

to help eliminate that, i use a teflon dot.  i have sheets of teflon that are 10 thousandths of an inch thick.  i use a leather hole puncher to punch out these dots.  they work great!!!!!
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« Reply #22 on: November 24, 2019, 10:06:51 AM »

there is often a little up and down play in these pawls.  too much and they "jump the track" and the result is that they carve their own path.  the photo is a really good example.  

to help eliminate that, i use a teflon dot.  i have sheets of teflon that are 10 thousandths of an inch thick.  i use a leather hole puncher to punch out these dots.  they work great!!!!!
Yes good suggestion.
I use a small brass shim same size but thinner then the factory one.   Until I now discovered what was actually happening, I was worried that the shim was causing the Pawl Cap to break, but it is probably the exact opposite.

Do you think too little play could be a problem, it obviously has to be able to move and turn?

Thanks Alan.
« Last Edit: November 24, 2019, 10:13:35 AM by Cor » Logged

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« Reply #23 on: November 24, 2019, 10:28:21 AM »

recently had to replace the worm gear in a 400. It was light as a feather like it was aluminium. The replacement came and is stainless steel (I suspect) so Shimano may have tried something originally and had to upgrade.
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You know that moment when your steak is on the grill and you can already feel your mouth watering.
Do vegans feel the same when mowing the lawn?
Cor
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« Reply #24 on: November 24, 2019, 10:35:27 AM »

recently had to replace the worm gear in a 400. It was light as a feather like it was aluminium. The replacement came and is stainless steel (I suspect) so Shimano may have tried something originally and had to upgrade.
The one on the 500 is brass (or some kind of brass alloy) see pic.


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