GLD 20 - Penn formula gld 20 two speed, teardown

Started by hafnor, March 05, 2011, 06:28:41 PM

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hafnor

Had a penn reel that was being used pretty rough for two years that I bought from a friend. I was accually amazed how water proof this reel is. there was not much intrusion inside the reel at all, But there were some nasty/dirty grease inside it, so I polished and added some new before the fishing season. Enjoy!


Penn gld 20 two speed formula reel


remove the torx screws (two) that holds the graphite body together as long with the lever assembly


Remove the other two torx that connects the main gear assembly to the main body


out goes the flat screews


To seperate the main gear with the main body you have to press down the "full" and "free" knobs that goes through the metal lever plate, it is a little tricky but just be patient and you will get it out.


As the lever plate is removed, the last two screws that connects the main body with the gear assembly is shown, screew them out. remember to clean and relube all screews


The spool and main body slides easily out.


on to the left side main body, check for rust and corrosion in the clicker assembly. I had a lot of old dirty grease so I seperated it and cleaned/lubed it.


flat screw driver



carefully remove the two shafts with the springs, clean and lube.



This grease is new for me, it is medium thick with high isolating features. The grease is used with electrical components often innstalled under the ground. should be protective and good against dirt and salt.


clean out old greasy stuff with a brush


reinstall and lube


nasty rust around the reel clamp screews.


nasty, thank god it is just the surface


much better


add grease to screws and...


reinstall.


screw out the drag preset knob anti clockwise, and the spool is free from the main gear


the plastic that makes the click sound when tightening or loosening the preset.



unscrew the drag plate seal.


out pops the drag plate because of the spring on the spool shaft



remove the retainer ring that attaches the gear to the drag plate


this goes out freely with no hassle


remove the bearing


add grease on top of the bearing


and make a bed before the bearing goes back in


remove old grease


add new


reassemble the gear and retainer ring


over to the disks, these were very dry


clean out old grease and...


add new


remove old grease if any.


add new cals grease that I got from Alan:)


remove excess


reassamble the drag disk, this goes freely in with no hassle, just make sure you hit the ingravings. Be careful they will easily break


on to the other side, remove the four screws


remove the c clip retainer


out goes the spool shaft, remember the two bearings inside the spool, will come back to those.


spool shaft with rings attached as (())


remove old grease/ add new


add grease to the spool shaft, and remove old grease inside the spool (forgot picture)


out goes the smallest bearing, could not get the shield out so I just cleaned and relubed them fully sealed.


on the other side comes a bigger one out




got the shield off the big one. Well greased.


add more to fully pack it.



press the shield on again


fill the ingraving inside the spool with a bed of grease for the bearing to sit on.


put the bearing back inside, grease the spool to with a light coat


do the same on the other bearing


reassemble


put the c clip back on inside the ingraving close to the spool


add a pearl on every screw


screw all four screws firmly and add grease


looks saltproof


on to the other side. put the bearing back inside and the spring, then comes the...


metal drag plate.


press it down towards the spool and screw the plastic cover firmly, and the spool is done!


on to the gear shifter button, remove screws and clean/lube


the shifter pops out thanks to the spring inside the shaft.



remove the handle nut. Use the handle and hold the the assembly with something to unscrew it.


out goes the two speed shifter


remove the handle arm


remove the metal cover


remove the screws that holds the lever.




two pieces total


remove spring



unscrew the screw that attaches the main gear to the spool


out comes the screw


take out the spring that surrounds the screw


remove the three screws that holds the second gear




grease everything good and...



reassemble


take the screw and put it inside the spring


screw back on tight


add the spring on top of the main gear screw


add some grease


add the lever


and the cover on top of the lever


screw greased and clean screws back on. Be carefull here, the plastic cover against the metal screws is a tough combination


on with the metal cover with grease inside


place the handle back on


screw the button shifter back on, you have to work it a little to get it to sit perfectly alligned.


back on with the shifter buttom screws, and yes they are lubed and cleaned.


allign the spool back on to the main gear plate


add the preset clicker assembly. Press it firmly down so the screw to the preset knob pops out.


on with the preset know


attach the right frame and spool to the main body.


allign the bodies to make it fit, it should make a sound when it pops into place. Remember the screws that goes before the lever drag plate.


now add the lever drag plate by again pressing in full and free button. It may takes some time to get it right.


add the main body screws (greased) that also holds the lever drag plate in place.


back on with the torx for the frame (greased)


last screws assembled under the gear room.


Healthy reel!

Notes: easy reel to maintain. be carefull when taking out some screws as they may have springs attached to it. Carefull when screwing back the screws into the graphite body, easy does it!

Hope this helps, best regards from Norway.

Thor






























Bryan Young

Thanks for sharing Thor.  Nice work. 

Electric grease?  Let us know how it does in the long run, will ya?
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

hafnor

yepp! All I know that it is made for electrical components in dirty occasions... Will report if it breaks! Seems nice in texture and the reel was smooth after greasing it up

Irish Jigger

Just used this Tutorial when sercvicing two Penn Formula 10KG 2 speed reels. It was a great help to me as this was the first time I had seen these reels.
Thank's Hafnor.  ;D ;D

handi2

Ive seen my electrician use that on the wired sprinkler controls.

It looks just Super Lube. Super Lube grease has the same properties.
OCD Reel Service & Repair
Gulf Breeze, FL

SoCalAngler

I was a telecom tech for 20 years and know a little about the so called lube used here. This stuff was not really meant as lube at all though it may work as one. In the telecom world there mainly two types of cables, I.W. (inside wire) and O.W. (outside wire). The two main types of O.W. are aerial cable which is the stuff you see running from telephone pole to pole and burial cable. Burial cable is used mainly for under ground cable installations from manhole to manhole or in multi floor buildings that have telephone distribution frames on each floor. The burial cables are filled with this jell which we techs called icky pick, sorry don't know the true name of the stuff or what it is made out of. Burial cables come with the jell installed inside of the cable so water can never intrude deep into it, say if a manhole or conduit gets filled with water or in multi floor applications if a distribution frame/phone closet gets flooded. They do sell the jell alone in varying sizes to be placed in terminations that can get wet or that can be used for what handi said.

I have never known anyone to use it as a lube so I have know idea how it would work but the one thing I can tell you about this stuff, cleaning it off 400 pair cable so you can make terminations is a real pain...lol