alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial a reminder about tape on the arbor of a spool
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
December 14, 2019, 04:52:43 AM *
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Author Topic: a reminder about tape on the arbor of a spool  (Read 10281 times)
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Eddie Hernandez
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« Reply #15 on: April 20, 2018, 09:00:29 AM »

when spooling up spectra, some people use electrical tape around the arbor to keep the spectra from slipping.  it's fine for fresh water, but not so good by itself for a salt water reel.



yup, plain black electrical tape.  who knows how many seasons this has been on.



and this is what you get.  funny, this one.  lots of corrosion under the tape, absolutely none on the sides of the spool.



then it's a coat of breathable flex wrap, then take the spectra six turns around the arbor, then a six turn uni knot, then loaded under pressure equal to 50 to 75% of the anticipated drag ranged (but you knew that last part already).



gotta protect those spools!!!!!

Has anyone used silicone tape? Leaves no glue residue.
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steelfish
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« Reply #16 on: April 20, 2018, 11:02:47 AM »



Has anyone used silicone tape? Leaves no glue residue.

I using silicone self-fusing tape.

leave no glue residue since it fuse itself when you strech it and put another layer over itself, its pretty tough since is used to fix leaks on hose with air or water presure.

my method is to put a light coat of Yamaha grease on the spool, then a layer of this silicone tape, two rounds of braid line, arbor knot, pull tight, then put another 10-15 turns of braid line, apply a bit more grease again over the braid line, tape y rest of the spool bottom and them continue spooling the reel to the brim.

might sound overkill but give me peace of mind if I ever want to leave the braid two or 3 seasons.



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Tiddlerbasher
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« Reply #17 on: April 20, 2018, 12:20:23 PM »

That's what I used to do - until I found corrosion under the tape. Now its grease/wax (whatever is to hand - still not convinced it's totally necessary) then 5/6 turns arbor knot with long tag.
If you can make that slip you are a darn sight stronger than me Grin

I haven't had corrosion on a spool since doing it this way.
« Last Edit: April 20, 2018, 04:44:23 PM by Tiddlerbasher » Logged
jurelometer
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« Reply #18 on: April 20, 2018, 01:01:23 PM »


Has anyone used silicone tape? Leaves no glue residue.

I think you will be risking the same problem with any kind of non-breathable tape.  It has to do with pitting corrosion advancing more aggressively when aluminum is exposed to an electrolyte solution in an oxygen depleted environment.

1.  No tape or breathable tape:   The water will eventually evaporate in the line or tape against the arbor.  There is still a little moisture from the air,  but not nearly as bad as trapped water.

2.  Solid tape:    If the salt water travels down the side of the spool and gets under the tape,  it will stay trapped for a much longer time. This is a much more effective environment for pitting corrosion.  This why the spool in Alan's photo had corrosion isolated to the area under the tape on the arbor,  even though the top 1/4 of the spool probably had the most original exposure to salt water. 

Lots of information on the web: look for "pitting corrosion anodized aluminum".  The scientific papers and manufactures association web sites have the most accurate information.   The chemical process has something to do with chloride dissolving some of the oxide layer exposing the underlying metal to corrosion.   Normally, oxygen in the air or water will cause a fresh aluminum oxide layer to form,   but if the oxygen in the solution becomes depleted,   the corrosion will continue.  Or something like that  Smiley     I am not a chemist.


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Tiddlerbasher
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« Reply #19 on: April 20, 2018, 04:58:33 PM »

J - I'm no chemist either (even though one of my degrees would, perhaps, suggest I should have been Undecided)
I am a retired engineer and from my experiences no tape is preferable - just my 2 cents though..
It's a bit like sealed or unsealed bearings - for me unsealed rules! Perhaps each to his own Undecided
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Rivverrat
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« Reply #20 on: April 20, 2018, 05:38:27 PM »

Over the last couple of years-ish  - I've stopped using any kind of tape on the spool. 5/6 turns around the spool then an arbor knot with  a long tag end - I can't make it slip Smiley
I just spooled up a fly reel (for salt fishing) as above 5/6 turns etc. 30+ lbs on the intial knot - it didn't move Grin

Me too. I do it like Jerry Brown instructs. No tape at all.


X3

x4  Going on my 4th year doing it this way. Spool all my buddies tournament bass reels this way. As of yet never a problem. Some of my personal reels only see 25 lbs. of drag max though... Jeff
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David Hall
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« Reply #21 on: April 20, 2018, 07:52:32 PM »

I probably didnít use a suitable knot for no tape last time I went out and couldnít get any drag on my reel.  I had a heck of a time with the bigger rock fish and Lings.   
Brought it home took the line off and taped the spool, spooled it back up and guess what no more line slip.  Bit I used electrical tape, Iíll switch to the breathable stuff next September.
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Shark Hunter
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« Reply #22 on: April 20, 2018, 09:29:42 PM »

I never use anything on the spool other than car wax.
I hand spool all my reels tight and have never had any slip.
My reels get attention, not neglect.
I will rewind it on another waxed spool at least twice a year.
Mind you, I only get to fish the coast two to three times annually.
My gear is always at the top of its game.
If there is a failure, It is always the line getting cut, mangled, chewed off, or wrapped up.
My last trip, I had a shark roll himself up on 30 feet of 500lb cable and 600lb mono to get his tail at the mainline.
All while under drag pressure. Feeling the headshake of a pit bull trying to break free. He did it. Angry
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« Reply #23 on: April 20, 2018, 11:06:46 PM »

Remove the spool and thread the line through the frame.  Throw about a dozen half hitches around the arbor.  Then smear everything with grease and wind on the line. 

The half hitches need to go in the same direction as the line when it is wound on so that they will tighten and bind under pressure.
-steve
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Keta
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« Reply #24 on: April 21, 2018, 05:06:23 AM »

I quit using tape some time ago. I splice a short piece of Dacron, 20' or so,  to the Spectra and tie the Dacron to the spool.
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Rivverrat
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« Reply #25 on: April 21, 2018, 05:53:30 AM »

Yup tape is no good with out regular maintenance. 

I've seen fresh water reels get corrosion on the arbor when using tape. I push a block of my cast bullet lube  (Carnuba Red) against the spinning, empty spool. Never a problem with braid spinning on spool or corrosion   even among those who dunk their reels in the surf... Jeff
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Fishy247
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« Reply #26 on: April 22, 2018, 10:06:24 AM »

Depending upon how lazy I happen to be feeling, I either tape it with the breathable, or just splice about 5' or so of mono to the start of my spectra. I usually do 3-4 wraps of the mono around the arbor in the opposite direction of loading. My theory is that the mono knot can slip as it stretches, only serving to tighten its grip on the arbor. Never had a problem with slippage as long as I remember to do my wraps the correct way.

Mike
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« Reply #27 on: April 22, 2018, 03:00:17 PM »

Remove the spool and thread the line through the frame.  Throw about a dozen half hitches around the arbor.  Then smear everything with grease and wind on the line. 

The half hitches need to go in the same direction as the line when it is wound on so that they will tighten and bind under pressure.
-steve

Ive never done this on a conventional reel but thatís what i do with spinning reels.
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« Reply #28 on: April 23, 2018, 07:05:02 AM »

Alan: I bought three roles of the tape you have suggested and every reel will get warped with before I load it with line.

Thanks Joe
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Gobi King
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« Reply #29 on: January 14, 2019, 09:37:55 AM »

If a reel is getting splashed and it is loaded with line,
Will the salt water will be absorbed and so all the way down to  the arbor?
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