alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial some amateur rod repairs pictures
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
July 14, 2020, 06:10:32 AM *
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Author Topic: some amateur rod repairs pictures  (Read 5547 times)
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thorhammer
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« Reply #15 on: November 28, 2016, 11:11:12 AM »

Alex, you will find starting from scratch with new stuff is WAYYYYYY easier than a refurbish / repair.....

Im pretty sure of that, just taking the old guides out, then with tons of care and a sharp cutter take all the epoxic remainings until getting everything smooth on the blank, very light sanding to prepare that same zone to be wraped again, cleaning it with DNA, its tons of work, Im trying to be very clear with my friends that Im not charging what should be charge for the time invested, with that said, its still better than just watching TV at night, they are happy and Im happy, those repairs are funding my personal projects, wife is happy cuz Im not taking any money from my weekly paycheck, so, Im good.


The prep on a rebuild is what kills you...usually more time than wrapping by the time you strip,  paint, sand, recoat, repeat....let alone if you disassemble roller guides for polishing....more on that to come Smiley



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steelfish
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« Reply #16 on: November 28, 2016, 11:46:57 AM »

I have to say I'm impressed with how those rods came out. They look brand new again. I'd love to do this to some of my old rods. I've never built a rod before. How do you clean them up so nice?

thanks compadre, john already quoted me on how's the cleaning job on an old rod for a repaint and rebuild, tons of care and patience, if you try to hurry up the things a bit it will end up on big mistake, so take your time, read a lot and go for it, Im really enjoying this part of the hobby, as always with the help of the AT guys, so Im open to help with my short experience to anyone that wants to jump on this with the budget builds and tools on mind.



Alex those look great! I'm sure the owners are tickled. I just received my box from Voodoo and will be doing some custom paint finished with CP on the blank for durability, on Jon's advice. I will post the builds so you know how that works but it looks like the proper flexible finish for a repaint application
John

thanks John, I just found out about CPxtra as well but it was after started this builds, but since these builds were stiff trolling rods and checking other factory and custom builds I decided to go with guide epoxic as coat finish ( I know its not recomended), but I read somewhere else that if after mixing the epoxic you heat the epoxic recipient with your torch, the epoxic becomes really thin and you can put a light coat on the rod, specially if you are not concerned for the adding weight which it was the case, another reason was that this rods are not too much flexible, but Im with you for light graphite or glass flexible rods builds, the clear coat after painting it it should be done with proper rod building coat like CPxtra, permagloss or lumiseal, or any other similar product.

with that said and being a budgeted person I went for spar urethane as coat finish on my muskie rod which is still with no guides, if it dont work as expected its not much a problem since its on my personal rod and I can fix it later, Im experimenting with that product (not without a tons of reading on this product on fishing rods).
looking forward your results on the use of CPxtra from voodoo and thanks for your compliments of the builds

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thorhammer
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« Reply #17 on: November 28, 2016, 11:52:38 AM »

I used that spar urethane a long while and it's ok; I found that when you carry a bunch of rods in one hand as I do the guides would chip paint on the other rods. Jon said one bottle will do several rods so at $9/ 4oz it wont be much different than poly cost-wise, but supposedly much more durable. We'll know soon enough. Doing some today.
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« Reply #18 on: November 28, 2016, 12:04:18 PM »

so at $9/ 4oz it wont be much different than poly cost-wise, but supposedly much more durable.

thats good to know John, thanks
I will have CPxtra on my next order and try it for sure.
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thorhammer
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« Reply #19 on: November 28, 2016, 12:05:46 PM »

Voodoo has some really nice thread I don't see at Crudhole as well.
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Gfish
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« Reply #20 on: November 28, 2016, 09:55:44 PM »

That's great lookin job, especially the thread wrapping. Are ya doin it by hand, or with a machine?
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« Reply #21 on: November 28, 2016, 10:26:00 PM »

remember guys, these repairs are been done on this DIY latte
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=18922.0

Thread wrapping was done on That manual / hand wrapper made using a wood box, its challenging cuz its not much comfortable on long rods but the ending product is really acceptable, isnt it?
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Bill B (Tarfu)
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« Reply #22 on: November 29, 2016, 08:29:57 AM »

Great work brother....Bill
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« Reply #23 on: November 29, 2016, 09:03:21 AM »

It all looks great. Just takes some patience to get it done right.
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steelfish
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« Reply #24 on: November 29, 2016, 10:01:48 AM »

I've never built a rod before. How do you clean them up so nice?

thanks compadre, john already quoted me on how's the cleaning job on an old rod for a repaint and rebuild, tons of care and patience, if you try to hurry up the things a bit it will end up on big mistake, so take your time, read a lot and go for it, Im really enjoying this part of the hobby, as always with the help of the AT guys, so Im open to help with my short experience to anyone that wants to jump on this with the budget builds and tools on mind.

I will elaborate a bit more for the guys that are thinking to get into restoring old rods (excuse my english and techical words not my 1st lenguage), Im not a pro by any means but now I can say Im not afraid to try to restore any old rod that I could find on a flea market or yard sale and put it on working condition again, for me thats a lot, I used to take my rods to a local guy but never liked his work oops, thats the main reason I started to find a way to make it myself.
anyway, best tips I can give you to (that are the same I recieve from the AT guys) is to get a new sharp razor blade and a lighter or alcohol torch if you have one, apply some heat to the foot of the guide for few seconds, the epoxic that covers the thread will feel softer, get your razor blade and start taking the epoxic out from the body of the guide to the foot following the metal of the guide, do the same to both feet and when you finishs move the guide a bit to set it free, then with your fingers take the rests of the thread and epoxic that left there, after you take everything you can with your fingers then work with the razor blade from that point to the end of the wrap, most of the times you will find the ending of the thread and when you pull it will start to unwrap so just continue pulling until taking it all out.
If you start cutting the epoxic on the guide starting on the blank to the guide foot you have the risk of making a small cut to the blank and toast it, but is doable to make it that way if you are really carefull I just prefer to be on the safe side and work with the 1st option.
once you take all the wrapping thread and epoxic you will get a lot ot epoxic remainings there, now take an old credit card and scratch the remainings on the blank, you can apply a little heat to make it easier if needed or if you feel confident use the razor blade on a 90 degree instead of the credit card.
once you have taken everything out where the guide was installed you can put the new guide there, or if you want to paint the blank then you can wet sand it with a 600 or 1000 grit sandpaper, not much, to taking a small layer of paint, from there is not much diferent than painting a metal tube, bike, etc.
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« Reply #25 on: November 29, 2016, 11:07:04 AM »

It all looks great. Just takes some patience to get it done right.


thanks Dwight, specially coming from a great rod builder like you

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