A Most Efficient System for Cleaning Metal Parts -- Quick & Safe

[joe k]

Thanks Fred...that answers my questions...the parts in the mason jars with pp/water solution and  just the water in the cleaner..and the parts get cleaned that are  in mason jars ..that are set in the us cleaner..  okkk..whooo...Joe

[Dominick]

Thanks Fred...that answers my questions...the parts in the mason jars with pp/water solution and  just the water in the cleaner..and the parts get cleaned that are  in mason jars ..that are set in the us cleaner..  okkk..whooo...Joe

Zactly... Dominick

[orsteelheader]

You can just put the SG or Purple, or whatever — into the main reservoir.

But it then requires cleaning out the reservoir of grease, crud, etc.

And a waste of much solution that just gets expensively used up.

I just fill the reservoir with fresh water — then I am able to use 1, 2, or 3 jars with different solutions at the same time. 

Plus, generally, I can get 10 - 15 reel cleanings out of each jar before it is used up.


Fred, any recommendations for a smallish US cleaner?

Jay


And I have little or no clean up.

I do use a SS pasta strainer, or for smaller parts — a tea strainer to drain the parts into prior to rinsing in fresh warm water. 

It all really just depends on your personal preferences, how may reels you do, and the clean up that you are willing to do.

I can disassemble a Penn conventional completely in 5 minutes, put the badly greased metal parts into lacquer thinner for 20 minutes, then put the metal parts into SG or Purple in a Mason jar for 8 minutes in the US cleaner, along with the crank and Bakelite plates in a separate jar of SG also in the US cleaner reservoir — rinse, dry — and reassemble, lube, and tune.  Whole process may take 45 minutes for a complete.  And this is more than a clean and relube — it is a full job inside and out.

Best,

Fred

[foakes]

Fred, any recommendations for a smallish US cleaner?

Jay

———————————————————

I used to have a smallish L & R — but I gave it to a friend 12 years ago — and he is still using it.

Some of the units coming out of Asia right now are pretty good.

And less expensive.

Things to look for, IMO —

SS reservoir and construction

Analog (mechanical dial for timer), if possible — digital controls are OK — but will fail much sooner than analog dials

Heat is not necessary — and may lead to premature failure if the heating unit goes out

And...the highest transducer solid state power output — that means more effective cleaning power

No plastic reservoirs — get a good one — not one made for jewelry and such

Prices are around $100 — give or take $40.

eBay, Amazon, etc...check the ratings and compare features

Average size is a gallon — some are smaller, some larger

Asian brands, L&R, Branson, etc..

Best,

Fred

[orsteelheader]

Thanks Fred, just what I was looking for. This will help with cleaning bike parts as well.

Jay

[joe k]

Fred..Branson i just started using is analog..been dipping in basket ..in stainless reservoir with 50/50...will try out glass jar method with 50/50 ...after i use it for couple more cleanings,,just having  a problem in my mind how US  will clean something in a glass jar inside a stainless reservoir..US i have can do multiple minutes...20+ at one setting..will give update in future,,great sight for answers,,,thanks to all..Joe

[foakes]

Fred..Branson i just started using is analog..been dipping in basket ..in stainless reservoir with 50/50...will try out glass jar method with 50/50 ...after i use it for couple more cleanings,,just having  a problem in my mind how US  will clean something in a glass jar inside a stainless reservoir..US i have can do multiple minutes...20+ at one setting..will give update in future,,great sight for answers,,,thanks to all..Joe

The nature of an ultrasonic cleaner is to use electrical solid state transducers to develop a "sonic" (sound wave field) within the tank.

The sonic vibration and the cleaner — gets into every tiny crevice of a part, to clean it.

The transducers are in the bottom of the tank — and the "cavitation effect" goes "through" anything within the liquid reservoir — glass, plastic, metal — makes no difference. 

Professional watch and clockmakers generally use glass beakers suspended above the bottom since the bottom is where the transducers are producing the most sonic cavitation — and there is always a possibility of a jar breaking if placed directly on the bottom.  I have never been concerned about this — and have never experienced a breakage in 15 years.

If you have large parts such as large side plates or large Senator rings — try using a good sealing baggie filled with Simple Green and no air pockets.  It will clean perfectly.

Some folks use a locking "tea infuser" for tiny parts dipped into a wide mouth jar of cleaning solution — remove — rinse with water — dip into isopropyl alchohol to displace the water — then lightly blow dry.  The parts come out sparkling and ready to reassemble.  I do not do this because I find it tedious and unnecessary.  But it does work.

For reusing dirty cleaning solutions — just filter them through a gold coffee filter back into another container — then reuse. 

There are many routes to the same destination — just experiment with what works for you.

Best,

Fred

[joe k]

Thanks again FRED..NOW I CAN CAN GET SOME SLEEP..BEEN WONDERING ABOUT THAT SINCE LAST POST..NOW ALL MY QUESTIONS HAVE BEEN ANSWERED..gonna do some parts in jars tommorrow...Joe..

[Darin Crofton]

Hi guys, I've learned a ton of info from this thread and I'm grateful to all who added input!
I'm in the market for one and thought I'd run one by you, but I won't be using the heater:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F5TG2SJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3OOOH8WJV7B82&psc=1

If you guys recommend a different one I'm all ears, I'm here to learn, thanks, Darin

[orsteelheader]

Hi guys, I've learned a ton of info from this thread and I'm grateful to all who added input!
I'm in the market for one and thought I'd run one by you, but I won't be using the heater:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F5TG2SJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3OOOH8WJV7B82&psc=1

If you guys recommend a different one I'm all ears, I'm here to learn, thanks, Darin

Exact one I was looking at... 

[foakes]

Should work...

Best,

Fred

[Darin Crofton]

Exact one I was looking at... 
[/quote]
Great minds think alike 

Should work...

Best,

Fred

Thank you, Fred!

[oc1]

The one with the analog/mechanical controls would be nice.  Probably last longer than digital.

Never run the cleaner without filling the tub to the required level.  Without the mass of the liquid to absorb the sonic waves the transducer will vibrate itself to death in a matter of minutes.

The biggest problem I have is leaking jars.  I have a small one-liter unit so normal mason jars do not fit well.  Instead I use small screw-top jars from baby food, capers, pimentos and such.  Solvents destroy the plastic seal on jars and they start leaking.  

Also, it doesn't seem to matter much if the jar is floating.
-steve

[Reel 224]

Hi guys, I've learned a ton of info from this thread and I'm grateful to all who added input!
I'm in the market for one and thought I'd run one by you, but I won't be using the heater:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F5TG2SJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3OOOH8WJV7B82&psc=1

If you guys recommend a different one I'm all ears, I'm here to learn, thanks, Darin

I would stay away from digital US cleaners. The dial model is much better.

Joe 

[joe k]

Fred ...when you put reel housing in us..what solution do you use..as not to harm paint or emblems on penn spinners ..or any other reel housings..?..be fine in basket...or find big enough jar..?Joe