is threadmaster one good for jobs when repairing 1 guide only

[thorhammer]

Heh Alex can't find snake guide thread but you should receive them in next couple if days. I had a set of five.

J

[steelfish]

when you say Snake thread are you refering to a "thread posted on the forum" or to a wraping thread for the snake guides?
is it different than regular thread?

btw, thanks a lot compadre, your are really one of a kind

[thorhammer]

The thread where you asked the question. Whatever wrapping you are using will work fine.

[steelfish]

The thread where you asked the question. Whatever wrapping you are using will work fine.

LOL, got it, no problema mi amigo

[gstours]

You got a lot of advise already and kinda have to figger out what you want to end up with........at least youv.e got some options...,
    I have used threadmaster one quite a lot for a single guide repair......It is thin so it takes more coats......and that means more turning....  but it drys faster for me than the 2 part types.......so you can move along a little more if need be......there is no waste generally as you can add just a dab more if you misjudge or err on the conservative side.....   PLUS it doesent dry up loke the 2 part like Hi Buiild......It wont last a year for me if opened.........    You will find its a tool in your shop.    like the cd player!

[steelfish]

thanks Gary

I will take you comment into consideration, I think I will get one and have it for friends that dont want their rod to be perfect

some local guys are using dacron line as thread and 5-min epoxic as finish, they just dont care as long its working

[droppedit]

I've tried the Threadmaster one coat and am not too impressed with it. If put on too thick it will fog up. It will also fog up if there are too many coats. The permagloss is some nasty stuff but if used right it has great results. Stay away from the fumes! If you have an exhaust fan to vent outside then you are ahead of the game. I use 2 part and usually do my repair work while I have new work drying, but then I'm set up for 5 rods. If you are doing large work (rollers), be kind of careful putting a finish coat on the underwraps. When you put the rollers on top of a finished underwrap 7 times out of 10 they will squeak when flexed. You have to do the trial and error thing to see which really works out best for you. You find something that feels comfortable, stay with it.

Have Fun,
Dave

[steelfish]

....... sounds like you're half way down the rabbit hole anyway. Sheridan

hey compa Sheridan, this was dec 2016.
if you get ever tired of your current job, you can work as Fortuneteller, amigo!
3 years later and now Im on a deepest place down the rabbit hole.

just recently got "Santa N-Nut" with a early xmas gift of the wrapping lathe with a dryer, so now I will have two dryers and one power wrapper and one manual wrapper, still need 4 more hands and 6 more hours of the 24hrs of the day.

BTW, depending on the rod, the guide, etc I now use one coat of epoxy on one-guide repairs not 3 as before on light FW rods or ligth surf rods,
repairing guides are really a different case than my 1 post concern, for for boat rods depending on the guide to replace 2 coats are needed and few cases as trolling rods or HD bait rods 3 coats for a perfect epoxy job.

[The Fishing Hobby]

I regularly mix smaller batches for single guide repair.

I just count the drops for two part epoxy finish, often using as little as 5:5.

Provided the proportions are correct, you should not experience any issues.
~

I use the drops method myself. Over time you learn how many drops you need for various sized guide wraps. I never mix large batches unless I'm doing multiple guides (like a full build) or something long/decorative like a label or butt wrap.
I read about counting drops in an old rod building book once and tried it for myself...never looked back, it works great! It is amazing how little epoxy you use when you only mix enough for the job!!!
I use Flex Coat Ultra V and Lite. I've heard some epoxy is more fussy than others.

[steelfish]

I control the measures of the epoxy with a syringe (wondering where or how you guys count drops)

currently with bit more experience on my side, I use as small as 0.5ml (syringe marks) of epoxy when repairing one guide and so far no complaints.

I normally use Diamond II epoxy, I have still around 12oz on the bottle and want to try the new formula of Diamond II UV formula, its little bit thicker and with the UV added.

[The Fishing Hobby]

I control the measures of the epoxy with a syringe (wondering where or how you guys count drops)

I use these type of bottles and they will allow you to dispense one drop at a time.

[steelfish]

got it

thanks

[Swami805]

In the rabbit hole and looking up now Alex, I could see it coming,one of the many talents of the Swami.
The power wrapper will take a bit to get used to but soon you'll wonder how you got along without it

[Jeri]

For small repairs, like 1 or 2 guides, we often 'save' these repairs until we have a number, so that using the normal 2 part resin is more economical.

However, our storage scheme for the 2 part rod finish is that we use 'pump action' bottles, which dispense just 1cc at a time, hence with just 1 shot of resin and hardener, we can do small repairs without wasting finishing resin. The only proviso that we apply to the bulk storage/dispense of our 2 part resin, is that we store the dispensers in a small cupboard, which keeps the bottles away from light when not in use - keeps the resin fresher for longer.

This way we maintain a single standard of quality of workmanship, whether it is a new custom rod, or a single repair to a 20 year old rod.

Cheers from sunny Africa

[steelfish]

For small repairs, like 1 or 2 guides, we often 'save' these repairs until we have a number, so that using the normal 2 part resin is more economical.

However, our storage scheme for the 2 part rod finish is that we use 'pump action' bottles, which dispense just 1cc at a time, hence with just 1 shot of resin and hardener, we can do small repairs without wasting finishing resin. The only proviso that we apply to the bulk storage/dispense of our 2 part resin, is that we store the dispensers in a small cupboard, which keeps the bottles away from light when not in use - keeps the resin fresher for longer.

This way we maintain a single standard of quality of workmanship, whether it is a new custom rod, or a single repair to a 20 year old rod.

Cheers from sunny Africa

thats pretty intesting Jeri, a "pump action" bottles never heard about that before, I dont have have a proper worktable or workshop in my home so, the epoxy bottles are always stored deep inside of a cabinet so, they rarely get any sunlight or light at all, when I need I get the epoxy by syringes into the mixing plastic cups and leave the epoxy again on the cabinet, this surely helps to keep the hardener to be "yellowing" sooner.

I have some epoxy bottles where the hardener have became darker that the normal light yellow tone now is almost ambar/orange in color, read somewhere that all the qualities of the resin/epoxy should be still good but the only when you apply 2 or 3 coats on white thread you will see a light tone of yellow on the epoxy ruining your work, I only use that epoxy for small repairs only on rods with darker thread colors, for light colors of thread as light blue, pink, white, etc I use Diamond II (new batch of epoxy) as well as for when I do a complete rebuild.