On to the ABU/Zebco Cardinal 6 & 7

Started by Midway Tommy, February 10, 2017, 10:35:45 PM

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Midway Tommy

I heard some chirping coming from the Cardinal nest and figured I might as well post a breakdown & reassembly on the Cardinal 6 & 7 to accompany the Cardinal 4. The Cardinal 6 & 7 are basically the exact same reel, and parts, except for the rotor cup & bail assembly. The Cardinal 7 spool is larger, which holds a little more line, and the only parts that differ are the rotor cup, bail, bail stopper, spool & spool arbor and side plate. All other parts are exactly the same.

I went to my box of yet to be serviced Cardinals and grabbed a Cardinal 7 for this example.



It wasn't too bad but clearly needed a good cleaning and part replacement. Notice the oscillation arm/connecting link attachment is broken. That is fairly common on these older Cardinal 6 & 7 reels. The nylon, or sometimes plastic, attachment becomes brittle after a number of years, cracks and breaks. If the main shaft won't oscillate or becomes bound up a broken link attachment is generally the culprit.




As with the Cardinal 4 the first step is to remove the 2 e-clips from the connecting link (oscillation arm), one on the main gear and the other at the rear of the main shaft. Once the connecting link is removed pull the main shaft out the front and remove the main gear. Next would be to remove the rotor cup from the body. Everything else from that point on pretty well falls into place and would just be the reverse of the reassemble steps shown later.

Here's a closeup of the broken link attachment. The attachment itself can be replaced because it connects to the arm via a pin & e-clip. The e-clip is on the opposite side. I save the brass bushing in case replacement attachments become unavailable. I figure worst case scenario I can always make one from a piece of nylon washer if need be.



Again, all the internal parts were wiped off and soaked in a jar with lacquer thinner, including the bearing on this one, for a couple of days. It howled & growled like an African Lion so I knew I would have to remove the dust shield, clean and repack the ball and race area. The plastics and painted body parts were cleaned with the Original White Goop (NO PUMICE), then washed in warm water & Dawn and thoroughly dried. Here's the parts, along with my newly acquired Penn wrench  ;D, all 60+ of them, cleaned and ready for reassembly. There wasn't anywhere I could utilize the wrench on this project but I will display and use it proudly!  :)



Here's the bearing with the dust shield removed, cleaned a ready to repack.



Bearing's repacked & ready to install the dust shield.



My first step, before my fingers get all greasy, is to assemble and install the bail onto the rotor. Thread the bail plate all the way onto the bail and then back it off 1/2 to one full turn so that it lays parallel with the bail. The bail springs are wound opposite and this photo shows them relative to their correct side. They must be installed on the correct side or they will be bent, sprung and difficult, if not impossible, to re-bend or adjust. The bail stopper on the Cardinal 6 & 7 installs when the rotor cup is attached to the body housing so install the spring and bail arm on the roller guide side, then install the spring and bail plate/bail on the opposite side. Once installed rotate the bail in the appropriate direction to get tension on the spring and turn the bail 90 degrees. Have the line roller, teflon bushing, protecting washer and bail nut ready for installation. Check the bail to make sure it lines up perfectly with the hole in the bail arm. Bend or adjust it if needed so that there is no pressure sideways or up and down. Once the bail is adjusted properly lube and install the teflon bushing, roller guide and protecting washer. Check to see that the bail will snap back with authority and if not adjust the springs or bail alignment accordingly. There won't be any tension on the bail springs since the bail stopper is not in place. Set the rotor aside for later installation.



On to the body. Install the anti-reverse button using the e-clip. Add a little grease on the screw and install the hook (lever) & spring. Lube the screw/lever/spring connection.



Next, assemble the drag stack & mechanism. The washers are laying in the order they go together, from the right to left: mylar washer, click washer/gear, mylar washer, thin carbon washer, flat bottom SS washer, thick carbon washer, flat bottom SS spring washer. All washers install on the long side of the click washer. Also, notice the flat side on the SS washers. They are to be positioned so that the flat side rests against body. This blocks their movement. Lightly grease between all washers.



Turn the brake screw into the brake cashing all the way, slip it into the hole and install the brake arm. Don't install the insert support yet. Make sure the flat sides on the SS washers are both down and line up each other.



Push the brake arm back as far as possible and install the drag stack with the short end into the worm gear/pinion bushing making sure both SS washers are in the correct position and the flat sides are down against body. Push the top of the brake arm forward and install the insert support. Make sure there is sufficient grease there. Tighten the brake cashing just enough so there is slight pressure on the drag stack keeping all washers in their correct position. Install the o-ring on the pinion gear in the groove just behind the linear anti-reverse teeth. The o-ring reduces anti-reverse click noise. We're ready to install the pinion/worm gear. Grease the rear pinion bushing and the pinion/worm gear inside and out and slide it into place through the front of the body. Once in place I like to insert the main shaft and give it a couple of turns to make sure the click washer and drag stack are working smoothly. Then I set the main shaft aside for later installation.



Grease the bearing cavity, pinion shaft and bearing, and slide it into place.



Grease the front edge of the housing, screw holes and secure the bearing with the bearing holder/retainer and the 3 screws.



Install the distance tube/spacer. Grease the front edge of the housing and bail trip stud.
 


Grease and lube the main gear, not forgetting to install the spring washer between the gear and bushing. Set it aside for installation after the rotor cup has been installed.



Time to install the rotor cup. Insert the bail stopper into the hole in the side of the rotor cup so that it will slide back and forth. There are 2 notches in the bail plate that hold the bail in the open or closed positions. Make sure the bail and stopper are aligned in the appropriate closed notch.



Install the rotor cup by first installing the driving washer, then install the locking washer and tighten the hex nut securely. The bail stopper should slide freely from side to side. Bend the flange on one side of the locking washer up against the flat side of the hex nut and install both bail stop springs.



Now that the pinion gear is correctly in place install the main gear, and grease, lube and install the main shaft.



Install the spring washer between the main gear and connecting link (oscillation arm). Install the spring washer in front of the oscillation arm/connecting link at the rear of the main shaft and secure the oscillation arm/connecting link at using the e-clip. Also, install the drag knob and screw to the cashing. The cashing and drag knob screw are reverse threaded.



Install the connecting link to the main gear using the e-clip.



Check and lube/oil any areas or connections that may have been omitted and make sure there is adequate grease on the main and pinion gear teeth. I also like to add a drop or two of oil to the main shaft in the pinion gear. Install the side-plate, crank handle and spool, and test everything to make sure all is working properly.

All done. Wipe it off, spray a little liquid car wax on it and polish it up for a nice shine. It's ready to go catch some fish!






       
Love those open face spinning reels! (Especially ABU & ABU/Zebco Cardinals)

Tommy D (ORCA), NE



Favorite Activity? ............... In our boat fishing
RELAXING w/ MY BEST FRIEND (My wife Bonnie)

foakes

Great tutorial on one of the best spinners ever, Tommy!

Best,

Fred
The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

mo65

~YOU CAN TUNA GEETAR...BUT YOU CAN'T TUNA FEESH~


mike1010

Thanks.  Beautiful mechanicals in that reel.

reelrepair123

gee    tom ,  you had me drooling with the picture of all those cardinal 6 and 7's,  very very nice.   great step by step pictures of overhauling the beautiful reel,  never thought about packing the bearing.   thank you.     harryk

Alto Mare

Another excellent tutorial from you,Tom...thanks for sharing.

Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Shark Hunter

#6
I don't know how I missed this.
Great Job Tommy.
This will come in handy since I'm collecting a few of these.
My Uncle and Grandpa fished with these reels.
They were legends in their own time.
I got a 7 and it seemed really stiff. I though it was just caked grease, but after opening it up, it is just dry.

Life is Good!

Midway Tommy

#7
Quote from: Shark Hunter on August 11, 2017, 05:55:22 AM
I don't know how I missed this.
Great Job Tommy.
This will come in handy since I'm collecting a few of these.
My Uncle and Grandpa fished with these reels.
They were legends in their own time.
I got a 7 and it seemed really stiff. I though it was just caked grease, but after opening it up, it is just dry.


Glad it came in handy, Daron. FYI, they make torpedo handles for the 6 & 7, too. Some are pointed & some have squared ends like the one in the example above. Let me know if you would want to switch those trapezoid handles out. I think I have an extra or two, I'd have to look
Love those open face spinning reels! (Especially ABU & ABU/Zebco Cardinals)

Tommy D (ORCA), NE



Favorite Activity? ............... In our boat fishing
RELAXING w/ MY BEST FRIEND (My wife Bonnie)

Shark Hunter

#8
I have a Cardinal 6 that is driving me nuts. (Not that I have that far to go) ;)
This reel had a broken reel foot. Fred provided me a new case.
After swapping the parts, I'm having issues with the drag knob.
The knob slips when trying to apply drag. I think the Fulcrum is bent.
I went through a 7 this evening and it went without a hitch.
These aluminum spools have some corrosion on the lip.
I sanded with emery cloth and applied some black nail polish.
I ordered a complete brake set to try and straighten the 6 out.
6 on the right, 7 on the left.
Life is Good!

Shark Hunter

#9
After a 12 hour shift last night. I had the new brake parts to try on the Cardinal 6.
The Fulcrum wasn't bent, but one of the ears on the drag knob mount had broke off?
There are four ears that fit in the drag knob. I only had three.
The replacement part only had two, but it looks to be made that way. It works fine now.
I completely disassembled it, and put it back together with all new drag parts.
I'm learning.
Life is Good!

mo65

   I grew up with these reels too Daron. All the dads and uncles and neighbors used them. By the time I was an age where I could earn enough money to buy one, they had fallen out of favor for more "disposable" (nice word for throw away) reels. I've been watching auctions...just have to have a few of these true classics. 8)
~YOU CAN TUNA GEETAR...BUT YOU CAN'T TUNA FEESH~


Midway Tommy

Quote from: Shark Hunter on August 22, 2017, 09:24:19 PM
After a 12 hour shift last night. I had the new brake parts to try on the Cardinal 6.
The Fulcrum wasn't bent, but one of the ears on the drag knob mount had broke off?
There are four ears that fit in the drag knob. I only had three.
The replacement part only had two, but it looks to be made that way. It works fine now.
I completely disassembled it, and put it back together with all new drag parts.
I'm learning.

Good for you, Daron! The first one or two almost always have some learning experiences. They're really not that difficult to go through once you've done a couple. The biggest mistake I see people make on them is to try to cut corners and not totally disassemble them for cleaning. It's really not that big of an ordeal. Also, the more you work on them you'll see where a little shim or spring washer added here or there takes up play or makes line lay a little better on the spool. It's just like anything, the more practice you get the more experienced you become and the easier it gets.  :)
Love those open face spinning reels! (Especially ABU & ABU/Zebco Cardinals)

Tommy D (ORCA), NE



Favorite Activity? ............... In our boat fishing
RELAXING w/ MY BEST FRIEND (My wife Bonnie)

Shark Hunter

The Cardinal 6 and 7 definitely have one flaw.
That is the nylon piece on the rear of the oscillating arm.
I need to figure this out.
Life is Good!

foakes

#13
Ouch, Daron --

Another plastic part failure.

I have a few old Cardinals and some parts that I will look through.

Will be sending you a 4, after I put a new bail on it -- and also have a few Cardinal things going out to Harry.

Just took down a couple of Cardinals to compare your broken part with these.  On this old brown and tan 6x -- it appears that the connecting link has a soft metal block instead of nylon.  I'll take a closer look later today.

Maybe one of these old parts bin specials have the part we need --

Maybe someone else might have this part, who could help us here.

Don't try to make that part -- you of course could -- but lets see if the right part surfaces.

Let you know...

Today's agenda is to repair 3 reels, and build out 4 Quicks with NOS parts -- then likely dinner and a movie with Sue tonight.  Two movies we are looking at are "All Saints" and "Wind River".

Or maybe just a Ribeye at home with Netflix and popcorn afterwards -- depends on what headquarters wants.

Best,

Fred
The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

Midway Tommy

Save the brass insert and the broken part to use as a pattern. I always figured I could make one out of a thick nylon washer if worse came to worse and insert the brass bushing into the shaft hole. Someone makes that part out of aluminum bar stock but I can't remember who it is and he doesn't have any listed on eBay at the moment. I wonder if it could be the same guy that makes the Penn oscillation blocks?

The arm in Fred's 6X is the last reincarnation of that part and fix for the problem. In the later years, '78 - '80, that oscillation arm with metal block attached was OEM and the standard replacement part after that. The nylon fitting is a tough find and when you do they're usually $10 +. So is the arm with metal block attached and they usually go for $10 - $12, if you can find one. 
Love those open face spinning reels! (Especially ABU & ABU/Zebco Cardinals)

Tommy D (ORCA), NE



Favorite Activity? ............... In our boat fishing
RELAXING w/ MY BEST FRIEND (My wife Bonnie)