alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial schematics for Dam Quick 550
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
March 19, 2019, 07:46:43 PM *
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Author Topic: schematics for Dam Quick 550  (Read 4657 times)
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Donnyboat
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« Reply #15 on: May 19, 2017, 03:35:24 AM »

okay Fred I will open it again & see what I can do, thank Fred, cheers Don.
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Don, or donnyboat
Donnyboat
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« Reply #16 on: May 19, 2017, 07:53:56 PM »

For Fred & the interest to other members, I had to take the 2 screws out,and end for end the connecting block, to convert the reel from left hand winde to right hand, not place it on the other side of the slide, all working good now, also had to wash the bearing out, relube & real smooth, thanks again Fred, cheers Don, Now start on the Mitchells, mostly 489`s.
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Riy2018
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« Reply #17 on: January 11, 2019, 09:13:50 AM »


What is the difference between 500 and 550N?
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festus
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« Reply #18 on: January 11, 2019, 09:50:33 AM »


What is the difference between 500 and 550N?
There are several differences.  You can't switch a 550N from right hand to left hand retrieve, but you can on a 550.  Also the anti-reverse mechanisms are different.  The spools won't interchange and the ratchet wheel on a 550N is plastic, while the  550 ratchet wheel is metal.  The bail setups are completely different but I believe they both share the same bail  spring.  I have a couple of both reels and the 550N feels more balanced, is quieter and smoother, but the 550 is a stronger, more well built reel in my opinion.
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Navidad Nutcase
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« Reply #19 on: January 11, 2019, 10:26:37 AM »

my 2 cents worth. I have a few of these older Quicks.  I had a 550N but traded it off.  If I remember correctly, It seems to me the  550"N" was narrower than the plain 550. Is that the case with all the "N" series reels ? Perhaps that is what the N stands for - but I do not know this for sure.
Greg
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Riy2018
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« Reply #20 on: January 14, 2019, 10:34:55 AM »


What is the difference between 500 and 550N?
There are several differences.  You can't switch a 550N from right hand to left hand retrieve, but you can on a 550.  Also the anti-reverse mechanisms are different.  The spools won't interchange and the ratchet wheel on a 550N is plastic, while the  550 ratchet wheel is metal.  The bail setups are completely different but I believe they both share the same bail  spring.  I have a couple of both reels and the 550N feels more balanced, is quieter and smoother, but the 550 is a stronger, more well built reel in my opinion.

thank you for information. Good I didn't went for 550N. will look again for 500.
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cdaline
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« Reply #21 on: February 25, 2019, 11:13:02 AM »

Hello Gentlemen.... 1st post . longtime lurker. I wanted to share a recently acquired D.A.M. Quick 550, and, ask a few questions.
I tracked this on ebay ...offered $15 + 10 ship. Upon arrival found the reel to be in pretty good nick... functional. I disassembled,
cleaned, lubricated. These are tank like German engineering. Appears they left the plastic bits out. Hefty to lift. The bail works but
on occasion has the need for two complete reel cranks for closure. My questions: What do the sun dial numbers on the spool drag
indicate ?   The three position maroon bar under the crank... click - bi-directional crank - anti-reverse modes ... when in "click" position
the maroon bar actually moves up and down in it's slot... is this what it is supposed to do ? This reel has a metal spool and Bakelite/
Plastic handle  knob... ? 60's-70's. I'm thinking 20 lb. test mono.... reasonable for surf fishing ? 

A little history... when stationed in Germany in the 70's these were some of the best line of reels available..always wanted to own
one, so I thought worth the purchase price.

Will not win any beauty contest , total lack of modern era bling... but, great design.  Cool Any comments appreciated.

Charles
https://imgur.com/a/81azzbM
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foakes
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« Reply #22 on: February 25, 2019, 12:16:55 PM »

Hello Gentlemen.... 1st post . longtime lurker. I wanted to share a recently acquired D.A.M. Quick 550, and, ask a few questions.

The bail works but on occasion has the need for two complete reel cranks for closure.

Check the copper brake ring to make sure the ramps are not bent too far down.  Also, there should be a surgical tube on the trip lever.  Also, sometimes the trip lever needs to be adjusted to make proper contact with the brake ring in order to trip during the first rotor rotation.

My questions: What do the sun dial numbers on the spool drag indicate?  

They are merely an indicator to be able to have some idea of where you have set your drag — or where you have it set at strike, fish-on, and fighting — just some numbers.  I never use the numbers — “feel” for the conditions and size of the fish is what I generally go by.


The three position maroon bar under the crank... click - bi-directional crank - anti-reverse modes ... when in "click" position.

This allows one to easily switch from left to right crank — without having to buy a bunch of expensive parts or locate parts that are not easy to find — for no reason.  Just the simplest way to approach lefties and righties.

The maroon bar actually moves up and down in it's slot... is this what it is supposed to do?

Yes, there is beveled and spring-loaded Anti-Reverse pin that drops into one of eight holes on the inside of the bronze main gear.  So every 45 degrees, or eight times per crank rotation — the maroon sheathed ball lever will jump — indicating all is working as it should — as well as giving the angler an audible indication that the lever is ready for fishing.

This reel has a metal spool and Bakelite/
Plastic handle  knob... ? 60's-70's. I'm thinking 20 lb. test mono.... reasonable for surf fishing?

If the spool is metal — someone knew what they were doing.  It is a metal spool from an old DQ 270 Super.  Plastic is the original 550 spool.  20 pound mono is good.

Will not win any beauty contest , total lack of modern era bling... but, great design.  Cool Any comments appreciated.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder... for me function, generational durability, simplicity, clever engineering, good materials, tight tolerances, and repeatable capability — are beautiful.

Tough reels.  But they also get used in tough conditions.  So if any parts are worn — they could usually be tweaked back into working order.  Or parts could be replaced.  Biggest thing about using these in the surf — is to completely clean them, apply new marine grease and good synthetic oil — then address the reel when you return home by breaking it open — making sure no salt water got inside — add grease if necessary — remove the spool when not in use — and check the drag stack for any salt or water intrusion.

Best,

Fred


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« Last Edit: February 25, 2019, 12:25:56 PM by foakes » Logged

A young apprentice once asked a Master Carpenter — “what was the most expensive tool you ever purchased, old timer?”

The older man just replied matter of factly —

“The one that didn’t work”...
festus
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« Reply #23 on: February 25, 2019, 12:56:10 PM »

Fred, l just now noticed for the first time there is a second rubber buffer on the schematic you posted. Where does it go? l know part no. 100248 fits on the angle lever.


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« Last Edit: February 25, 2019, 12:56:50 PM by festus » Logged
oldmanjoe
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« Reply #24 on: February 25, 2019, 01:25:13 PM »

 Smiley  These pictures may help


* IMG_1339.JPG (27.37 KB, 320x240 - viewed 25 times.)

* IMG_1341.JPG (26.38 KB, 320x240 - viewed 26 times.)
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Grandpa`s word of wisdom......Joey that thing between your shoulders is not a hat rack.....    use it.....
A mind is like a parachute, it only work`s  when it is open.......
festus
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« Reply #25 on: February 25, 2019, 01:35:06 PM »

Thank Joe. the second pic answered my question.
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cdaline
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« Reply #26 on: February 25, 2019, 01:40:03 PM »

Fred....

Thank you very much for sharing your expertise . You obviously are very knowledgeable on the D.A.M. Quick's. I am
not a flipper , but a buy and hold type guy. Thankful to get such a quality reel that I can still put to use. i will print off
your schematic and insights and will keep with the reel. I had not learned about removing the spool when not in use.
Thank you. BTW.... my error, the spool is plastic. Looking forward to using this reel.

Thanks again.

Charles
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foakes
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« Reply #27 on: February 25, 2019, 01:41:45 PM »

Yes, Festus, it just goes on the underside of the trip lever —

It interacts with the triangle trip nub moulded into the reel frame — and also with the copper ramp — to trip the bail.

A DQ reel’s bail should properly be put into the “casting” position starting at 12 o’clock and going downwards to 6 o’clock.

This gives the rotor rotation about 270 degrees of momentum before tripping closed.

Another small detail when casting these —  for a more accurate and longer cast — it helps to make sure the spool is in the full outward position.  Less line resistance as sometimes an inward position will cause a slight friction on the inside of the rotor — as the line flies off the spool when casting.

Best,

Fred



* A0F5743C-29F4-454A-A2BC-60C49E004C3F.jpeg (2133.29 KB, 3264x2448 - viewed 7 times.)
« Last Edit: February 25, 2019, 01:43:37 PM by foakes » Logged

A young apprentice once asked a Master Carpenter — “what was the most expensive tool you ever purchased, old timer?”

The older man just replied matter of factly —

“The one that didn’t work”...
oldmanjoe
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« Reply #28 on: February 25, 2019, 02:06:39 PM »

Hello Gentlemen.... 1st post . longtime lurker. I wanted to share a recently acquired D.A.M. Quick 550, and, ask a few questions.
I tracked this on ebay ...offered $15 + 10 ship. Upon arrival found the reel to be in pretty good nick... functional. I disassembled,
cleaned, lubricated. These are tank like German engineering. Appears they left the plastic bits out. Hefty to lift. The bail works but
on occasion has the need for two complete reel cranks for closure.    My questions: What do the sun dial numbers on the spool drag
indicate ?   The three position maroon bar under the crank... click - bi-directional crank - anti-reverse modes ... when in "click" position
the maroon bar actua The three position maroon bar under the crank... click - bi-directional crank - anti-reverse modes ... when in "click" position
the maroon bar actually moves up and down in it's slot... is this what it is supposed to dolly moves up and down in it's slot... is this what it is supposed to do ? T

A little history... when stationed in Germany in the 70's these were some of the best line of reels available..always wanted to own
one, so I thought worth the purchase price.

Will not win any beauty contest , total lack of modern era bling... but, great design.  Cool Any comments appreciated.

Charles
https://imgur.com/a/81azzbM
k
The bail works but
on occasion has the need for two complete reel cranks for closure .      Check that you have the bail spring clocked correctly ,it should close with a nice snap.

 The three position maroon bar under the crank... click - bi-directional crank - anti-reverse modes ... when in "click" position
the maroon bar actually moves up and down in it's slot... is this what it is supposed to do.     Yes...

       This reel has a metal spool and Bakelite
Plastic handle  knob... ?    You are kinder lucky for the metal spool   Stock was plastic        I see you found it to be plastic !
alantani.com/index.php?topic=22803.0    

 What do the sun dial numbers on the spool drag
indicate ?    From the owners manually


* IMG_1343.JPG (44.98 KB, 320x240 - viewed 27 times.)
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Grandpa`s word of wisdom......Joey that thing between your shoulders is not a hat rack.....    use it.....
A mind is like a parachute, it only work`s  when it is open.......
festus
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« Reply #29 on: February 25, 2019, 02:18:23 PM »

Yes, Festus, it just goes on the underside of the trip lever —

It interacts with the triangle trip nub moulded into the reel frame — and also with the copper ramp — to trip the bail.

Best,

Fred
l have tubing l can cut to take care of this, but do any more of the non-N Finessa series need this buffer?
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