Penn 10 Mag - cut down

[mhc]

Sorry for the late reply Joe - I've been a bit busy the last few days and thanks Bill, you've summed it up pretty well. The only thing I'll add is the frame sides are 316 stainless steel.
I haven't made any progress with this, apart from 1/2 an hour cleaning up the bakelite side plates a bit. Here's a sneak preview that demonstrates what Bill has said;



Mike

[Alto Mare]

It's shaping up Mike, starting to look sweet.

Sal

[Donnyboat]

good work as always Mike, entertaining keep it coming, thanks mate, cheers Don.

[Rothmar2]

Ah, now I see what you are up to. I hadn't seen this thread until today, and I wasn't able to comprehend what your plan was from some of the preview pics you had sent me privately. Quite a mod this one. You'd be getting filer's forearms by now!

[mhc]

I've made a bit more progress with this - the frame is pretty much finished but the side plates still need work.
I had marked the opening for the spool on the frame sides and then adjusted it slightly at some stage. The result was two circles of marks that were close and sure to be confusing so I screwed the sides together with the original rings on each side as a guide;



It's probably worth mentioning the Mag 10 uses 4-40 (I think) side plate screws and I'm using 5-40 screws so I needed to ream the holes in the rings and side plates to 3.5 mm to accommodate the 5-40 screws.
Back to the frame, I filed the sides down to the edge of the hole in the rings;



I then started test fitting with the spool as I went;



Once the spool fit, I assembled the frame and side plates with the bearings to check free spool. The spool wasn't free at all to start off with so I kept filing where I thought it was needed checking regularly so I didn't remove more material than needed. When it got to the stage the spool turning but still rubbing I marked the inside of the opening with a marking pen and filed the high spots where the rub marks were, and repeated, and repeated and lost count.





Once the spool turned freely I finished sanding and sort of polished the frame;





The assembled frame with the spool showing part of the tapered flange on the spool sitting inside the frame – looking from the inside of the reel this makes the gap between the spool and frame appear much wider than it is at the edge of the spool. Having said that - the gap, more so on the tail plate side, did end up a bit wider than I would have liked.







The side plates are taking shape but will need another application of epoxy to fill the gaps or voids left after the first round; 



I think I'm going to like this little reel - I don't have a stock Mag 10 to compare this with but here is a photo beside a 146 squidder for a size comparison;



And another with the 146 and an ABU 6500 C4;



More to come when I finish the side plates.
Mike

[thorhammer]

Great work on one of my favorite reels. I expect you will about throw the line off when done. Are you going to paint or polish out the bakelite mod areas? If so what will you use?


John

[mhc]

Thanks John, I'm still tossing a few ideas around with the finish - I think I'll wait until it's fully functional before I decide how much more time to spend on it.

Mike

[STRIPER LOU]

Don't know how I missed this? Very nice work Mike!!!

.............Lou

[mo65]

   Wow Mike...this thing is coming along great! I'd love to have one of these to bass fish.

[redsetta]

Great work Mike - really enjoying its evolution!
Thanks for sharing, Justin

[oc1]

You do very nice work Mike.
-steve

[Alto Mare]

It's nice to watch this masterpiece evolve.
I see that Tony from Penn is taking a peak, maybe he'll get the idea and offer some of the same to us.

Keep up your great work Mike!

Sal

[Tightlines667]

Looking good.

[jigmaster501]

A few years back, someone tried to do something like this with a penn 209. I think it was called a squidmaster 209....  This metal frame is what is needed for that reel...

Take a look, maybe your next project.....lol

Eugene

[mhc]

Thanks guys, like most projects this has taken a bit more time than I thought but I'm pretty happy with the frame so far. It seems the more time I spend on the side plates the thought of starting again is making me less adventurous with the modifications.

A few years back, someone tried to do something like this with a penn 209. I think it was called a squidmaster 209....  This metal frame is what is needed for that reel...

Take a look, maybe your next project.....lol

Eugene

Funny you should mention that Eugene, the next project reel will probably be a cut down 210. I stumbled across the thread you're talking about while researching the 10 and 210 reels, The squidmaster 210 by Joel.B posted a few years back in 2013 - http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7057.0

I am going to blame Mo65 for this project and the proposed 210 project   I wasn't thinking about these reels until I read his enthusiastic threads about his Mag 10 and 210 'hop ups' Mo mentioned the 4:1 gear ratios and how a lot of people remove the level winds which got me thinking the side plates are bigger than they need to be if the level wind is removed.
When I found Joel's thread I thought the 210 was going to be a simple case of modifying the 210 head plate to fit whatever width squidder you wanted, however the shaft on the gear side of the squidder spools and 210 spools are slightly different length. The squidder shaft is approx 2mm longer than the 210 spool - this will stop the pinion fully engaging, it will still partially engage and make the spool turn as Joel said but not be fully engaged.



I hope I'm wrong, and maybe I can fiddle with the bearing or something to make the squidder spools work - I'll look into it more when I finish the 10. I'm very interested in hearing from anyone else that has tried this, I'm sure I wouldn't be the first after Joel's thread.

I have made a squidder side plate hole template just in case  



Mike