alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial 50VSX - international 50 vsx
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
October 14, 2019, 10:20:00 PM *
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Author Topic: 50VSX - international 50 vsx  (Read 70600 times)
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alantani
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« Reply #15 on: November 11, 2012, 06:44:17 PM »

Success on disassembling, maintaining and then RE-assembling my 16vsx.  Wow, there are a lot of parts.  Thanks for all the info on this site.

take pictures!!!!!!
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johnnywalker
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« Reply #16 on: April 02, 2013, 07:43:09 AM »

Success on disassembling, maintaining and then RE-assembling my 16vsx.  Wow, there are a lot of parts.  Thanks for all the info on this site.

take pictures!!!!!!

Hello Alan, great site, thanks for taking the time to post all the useful information.

I am replacing the plastic shifting buttons on my 50VSX's with the new metal ones. The 1st 3 went fine but on the last one I am having an issue. It looks like the button is going too far into the insert and I am not able to get the button to snap in and out between Low and High speeds. When I match it up against the ones that are working I can see that the button is not stopping in the correct place. I have attached a couple pictures where u can clearly see the shifter on the Left is in the correct place and works well once I screw it down. The one of the Right is pushing down too far and preventing a good high low twist and click. I took apart the bad one all the way to the handle and reassembled, I did not see anything out of place.
Have you seen this issue before and any suggestions on fixing this? Thanks  JW
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alantani
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« Reply #17 on: April 02, 2013, 07:53:25 AM »

i'm not familiar enough with these to tell you.  check here.  https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn50VSX.aspx and with penn themselves and see what they say.   you may have to stick with the original parts.  there has to be a difference, though.  



"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
« Last Edit: July 11, 2018, 09:44:47 AM by mizmo67 » Logged

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kamuwela
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« Reply #18 on: April 02, 2013, 07:40:25 PM »

is the spacer and spring there? 172A and 18L.
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Kau Grown
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HOE WA'A


« Reply #19 on: July 01, 2013, 06:29:00 PM »

Wow!!! Thank you Alan for this write up and tuturial!! You are the man! It defiantly helps out big time for rookies like myself to have pictures of the breakdown steps. Much respect for your knowledge and help!

Aloha, KG
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MarlynOC
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« Reply #20 on: January 20, 2014, 09:59:09 AM »

Have a 50VSX reel that is giving me trouble.  The drag lever does not work.  Loosen or tighten drag and with lever at off or at full the drag stays the same.  Hard to press and turn drag knob also.  Any idea where to start?  Have the schematic of reel to refer to.
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alantani
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« Reply #21 on: January 20, 2014, 12:02:17 PM »

chances are it's jut all gummed up inside.  you're looking at a full tear down....... Undecided
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MarlynOC
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« Reply #22 on: January 20, 2014, 12:29:39 PM »

Alan, thank you, will begin process.
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MarlynOC
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« Reply #23 on: January 21, 2014, 03:48:04 PM »

Found the thrust washer next to drag lever has broken.  Ordered two new ones and have checked other parts cleaned and ready to go back together once parts arrive.
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Bayhouse
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« Reply #24 on: December 11, 2014, 04:01:20 PM »

Alan,

Great tutorial, thank you!!!

Iím working on a relatively new 50vsw that clearly is gummed up inside.  The handle feels like itís binding, very tight.  Iíve started the disassembly and have two questions:

First Ė for the step to remove the shifter retaining plate (key #133) Ė is there a secret to getting that sucker out?  I managed to pry it out but wonder if there was a better way.  Itís a fragile thin piece and wonder if I should replace it since itís a bit out of shape now?

Second, Iíve gotten to the step to remove the retaining ring (key #195) and am stuck.  I did remove the retaining ring, but I cannot get the main gear assembly out of the right side plate.  It seems stuck and Iím hesitant to force it.  Iíve tapped it lightly, but it didnít budge.  Any suggestions?

Thanks!
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Tightlines666
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« Reply #25 on: February 04, 2015, 03:05:21 PM »

No real trick to getting out the shifter retaining plate.  Once you have removed the plunger and the catch assembly, you should be able to carfeully seperare it with 2 opposing thin/flat tools. 

If you have already removed the retaining ring you should be able to knock the drive shaft through from the outside.  Use a rubber mallet abd penetrating fluid if needed.  Turn the shaft w/handle atrached while applying penetrant ir soaking in penetrant to help free it up a bit.  Freezing the plate and/or carefully heating it may help.  The tollerences are clise here on this reel and things can bind if marred/burred/corroded or not properly lubed. 

Also, pics might help us visualize your difficulties 

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honolii
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« Reply #26 on: May 24, 2015, 11:24:12 AM »

Looking to update a Penn International 80W.  Are the 80 VSW holding up to Hawaii style offshore use?    Used one on a friend's boat where we caught a 500# blue in the channel.  Seemed good.  What about common issues?  Repairs?  Mahalo.
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Tightlines666
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« Reply #27 on: May 24, 2015, 03:50:35 PM »

The 80VSWs have tighter tollerances throughout, a steeper drag curve, with greater max. drag, and a 2 speed shift mechanism that will always stay in gear.  These reels should work fine for regular offshore use here in HI.  However, many of the local repair shops have been seeing alot of problems with the cam assembly freezing up, and the need for shimming the drive shaft after limited use.  They also complain that they are a bit more problematic to service.  I actually prefer the looser tollerances on the older 80STWs for long-term heavy offshore use, since they will continue to function despite wear and corrosion issues.  If you decide on the VSW model, just make sure to service it regularily.  I actually havn't serviced many of these guys myself.
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Rothmar2
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« Reply #28 on: May 26, 2015, 07:12:29 PM »

Just like to add weight to some problems observed with these reels.
With the drag cam, here is the cam from a 70VSW that was a little over 12 months old and had only seen moderate use



Notice how the factory grease has gone milky, and there are salt crystals captured in the grease.

This in turn lead to corrosion pitting in the cam bore



And ultimately into the bearing



While we do fish in rough seas down here, this reel was always rinsed with fresh water, and wiped down with an inox wetted rag. From the outside, the reel still looked as new.
The result of this corrosion was the reel would not go into Freespool.

This is just my opinion, but I don't think the (blue) factory Penn grease is really up to the task of protecting these reels in a seawater environment. I think it seems to be partly miscible with seawater, ie it will trap and mix with it, evidenced with the photo of the cam above.

I now recommend (to those who care)  , to use Castrol Spheerol SX2 for general surface greasing. Here is some product info for this grease

http://misl.org/downloads/Castrol/Castrol_SX2.pdf

It also helps I have access to an unlimited supply at work!

I have had the above reel back across my desk since I cleaned all the factory grease and gunk off, and lightly polished around the pitted areas, and the Spheerol has since kept the pitting from spreading.

I now clean all the factory grease off as a preservice, and replace with Spheerol (side plate bearings included).
I have also noted that the drag washers are also rarely properly greased from the factory as well. These get proper treatment with Cals.
  Despite these niggles, I actually really like these reels.
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Tightlines666
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« Reply #29 on: May 26, 2015, 09:12:10 PM »

Thanks for sharing the pics.

I think its important to see what types of problems arise after use straight from the factory, and following a complete service using our slightly different techniques/lubes.  For whatever reason, the cam assemblies on these reels seem somewhat prone to water intrusion, corrosion, and stickiness or binding.  The smaller diameter, and deeper cam pocket, along with tighter tollerances throughout this reel seem to me that any appreciable marring, corrosion, dried/bad lube, salt intrusion, noticable wear, or anything straying too far from optimal internal reel conditions...will likely affect the performance or function of the reel in a noticable or symptomatic fashion.  I truely like many of the design features/elements of this reel, but think it needs regular servicing in order to stay the well oiled machine it is designed to be. 

In contrast...
The old somewhat bulletproff, and beloved International IIs which after wearing, corroding, or experiencing parts failures (i.e. bearings, drag spring,  pin/shaft, cam pocket marring, wtc.) might show symtoms, and have reduced performance, but they seem to always (or nearly so) keep on functioning. 

The differences seems akin to those between an AK, and an M16...or something.

As far as grease choice goes, I think everyone might have somewhat differing opinions.  I personally always use Penn Blue, and Cal's.  I like the buttery/smooth texture, it's readily available, and cost effective.  It also has excellent anticorrosion properties (though it can get displaced over time), and it behaves well in bearings, and parts with tighter tollerances.

I admit I have been impressed with INOX and 'firmer' greases like it to stay put, and resist displacement, as well as their longevity.  However, they are typically sticky, and don't always work the best in some more finiky assemblies.  They can make the reel feel a bit sluggish as well.  Truth be told, it would probably be the most benneficial for the reel to lube different internal assemblies with different product, but I think TSI301, Corrosion X, Penn Blue, and Cal's should pretty much cover you on most reels. 

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