alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Newell 400 series Aluminum Sideplates
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
December 15, 2019, 10:31:51 AM *
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Author Topic: Newell 400 series Aluminum Sideplates  (Read 6024 times)
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #15 on: November 21, 2017, 06:06:47 AM »

Thatís purdy.  Iím glad you like them. Tom does amazing work. Itís not easy to satisfy my build criteria. Iím planning to build my demo reel with red sideplates. 😁
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
Swami805
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« Reply #16 on: November 23, 2017, 07:30:34 AM »

I put together a stock Nl440 with a set of Bryan's custom plates. I use this reel for distance casting so I used the graphite spool and parts to keep it light. The kit went together with out a hitch. I was able to use the stock plastic clicker assembly since the spool has a graphite clicker gear. Everything fell right into place with no adjuments nessecary. Free spool for days. I'm trying  to figure out how to plug the holes where the cross bar should be since I run this reel and low drag numbers the cross bar isn't  nessecary. Any ideas would be appreciated.
If you're on the fence about buying a set don't be. I have accurate plates jvariance Cortez plates and these are  second to none. Every aspect has been well thought out. Going to give this one a test at the local pier this weekend for some slide fishing on my trusty calstar 540. Been getting a few white seabass and should be able to get the distance it hit my favorite honey hole.
I'll post up the results!
If you're not a Newell guy this might be the reel that makes you a convert.
If you are a Newell guy don't let this opportunity pass you by.
Just my 2 cents
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« Reply #17 on: November 23, 2017, 07:34:55 AM »

Here's a few pictures. I use an iPhone so the chalky isn't great


* IMG_2538.JPG (1504.75 KB, 3264x2448 - viewed 212 times.)

* IMG_2539.JPG (1780.62 KB, 3264x2448 - viewed 213 times.)

* IMG_2543.JPG (1553.07 KB, 3264x2448 - viewed 220 times.)
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PacRat
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« Reply #18 on: November 23, 2017, 08:39:41 AM »

You can plug the cross-bar holes by fabricating lug blanks with smaller holes that you thread to fit the screw. The lug blank becomes a nut so it fills the slot and holds the screw in place to plug the screw hole. If you don't feel like fabricating a new lug blank from scratch you could weld the hole in your existing lug shut and re-drill it to the correct size and tap the threads. Your reels look great.
-Mike
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Swami805
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« Reply #19 on: November 23, 2017, 09:05:55 AM »

Thanks, welding tapping etc. aren't really in my wheelhouse. I'm going to try something using a threaded inserts from a smaller newell, file down the corners of the hex head so it slides into the hole on the outside but they'll be screw head sticking out a bit on the inside. The stock lug has a bigger hole that the insert will go thru so it may work ok. I little screw head sticking out is still way better than the cross bar.
This isn't an issue with a tiburon frame,just if your using stock frame parts.
IS tapping a hole possible with a hand drill and a vice or do I need a drill press and all that?
Could I just tap the existing hole and use a bit bigger screw?
If I had an ounce of sense I'd use a tiburon frame I have sitting here, But what fun would that be? Right?
Thanks again for the suggestion
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PacRat
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« Reply #20 on: November 23, 2017, 10:27:03 AM »

I'll admit that the Tib frame is the logical way to go but the Newell bars look real good on your reel. I wouldn't recommend bigger screws because they would monkey up the anodizing. It is possible to drill and tap the lugs with a vice and hand drill but this will depend on your hand/eye coordination and ability to keep the drill perpendicular. You would want to keep the fit very accurate here.

A less difficult solution would be to cut your screws to length so they are flush to the inside of the plates (or a couple thousandths shorter). Then epoxy the lug blanks and screws in place. You can use clear epoxy or JB Weld (gray). Alcohol wipes will remove any extra epoxy from your side-plates before it cures. There are a couple of benefits to using epoxy, it will seal this area from saltwater and if you ever decide to revert to the original condition; a heat lamp and a turn of the screw will release it. Just be careful when cleaning the cured epoxy residue. Heat and a hard plastic scraper will remove most of the cured epoxy without scratching the anodizing.
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Swami805
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« Reply #21 on: November 23, 2017, 10:36:34 AM »

Thank you, that sounds that a better way to go.
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« Reply #22 on: November 23, 2017, 10:36:34 AM »

After looking at Bryan's photos again I would change up the epoxy procedure just a bit. First I would grease the slots and lugs, and insert the lugs. Then clean the screw hole out with a Q-tip and solvent. Then use epoxy or JB Weld on the screw threads only. This should pin your lugs in place nicely and even if they were to come loose at some point it would not be difficult to re-epoxy them. They would also be much easier to remove when and if you ever want to.
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« Reply #23 on: November 23, 2017, 11:49:10 AM »

Mike, are you going to run the harness lugs reversed in the plug position?
If so, I can probably make a little plug similar to the aluminum hex ones Newells have.
Tom
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« Reply #24 on: November 23, 2017, 12:24:32 PM »

Tom, I don't have one of Bryan's 400 kits...yet. I don't even have a donor reel to build one from. I was just offering some suggestions on how I would eliminate the cross-bar. But if I did have one I would be running the lugs in the reversed position. I tend to prefer the stock Newell frame over the Tib for casting because I like to thumb the spool flange which is a little difficult with the Tib.
-Mike
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« Reply #25 on: November 23, 2017, 12:25:15 PM »

I was going to reverse the lugs thinking i could just round the corners a bit on the stock newell threaded inserts. Mikes idea sounds pretty good. I'm just trying to figure a way I can use the stock newell parts without the cross bar and plugging the holes somehow.
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #26 on: November 23, 2017, 05:19:25 PM »

Mike, are you going to run the harness lugs reversed in the plug position?
If so, I can probably make a little plug similar to the aluminum hex ones Newells have.
Tom

Hi Tom,

If you are going to make a couple, would you mind making me several sets. That would be awesome.

Thank you and happy thanksgiving.
« Last Edit: November 23, 2017, 09:10:39 PM by Bryan Young » Logged

Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
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« Reply #27 on: December 07, 2017, 03:40:05 PM »

Bryan gave me permission to post this here.  If anyone interested in Bryan's Newell 400 series side plates might want a Tiburon frame or frame/spool kit, I have the N533NK narrow kits in red and purple.  For those looking for maximum line capacity, I can get the N550 kits in any of the standard Tiburon colors (red, black, silver, electric blue, cobalt blue, purple and green).  Kits in 440, 447 and 454 widths are also available.  So as not to clutter up Bryan's thread, please contact me by PM, email at rfpauly@aol.com, or phone or text at 805.748.9202 if you are interested.

Thank you,

Randy
« Last Edit: December 07, 2017, 09:14:21 PM by Vintage Offshore Tackle » Logged
Fishamen7
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« Reply #28 on: June 21, 2019, 06:14:47 AM »

Hello Bryan
I was wondering if there were any more of these Newell 400 plates available.
Thanks
Jason
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #29 on: June 21, 2019, 08:58:21 AM »

Hello Bryan
I was wondering if there were any more of these Newell 400 plates available.
Thanks
Jason

Hi Jason, 

I do.  I sent you a PM.

Thank you,
Bryan
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
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