alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Thinking of starting on a 149 or 349
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
December 13, 2019, 12:34:53 AM *
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Author Topic: Thinking of starting on a 149 or 349  (Read 4842 times)
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grekim
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« Reply #15 on: November 19, 2017, 02:19:05 PM »

I need to pick up the 1/16" punch.  I have been using an awl type of thing on Swiss Army knife.  On some reels I've been able to remove the pin and others not (and this one is indeed stuck).  However, it is turning very well. 

I did get the ring off after the overnight soak.

I thought I read somewhere (here) that the HT-100's are not recommended with the brass washers?  Looks like the steel washers are not available for this at Scott's.

Finally, the crack bothers me.  It is probably too hard to get a picture.  I am thinking of injecting some marine epoxy with a syringe.
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RowdyW
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« Reply #16 on: November 19, 2017, 03:01:27 PM »

Sears is the best place to get the punch. Lifetime garrantee. Get two to have a spare. I don't think epoxying the ring will do any good. The ring is still supported by the taper in the screw holes.         Rudy
« Last Edit: November 19, 2017, 03:30:14 PM by RowdyW » Logged
Bill B (Tarfu)
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« Reply #17 on: November 19, 2017, 03:22:15 PM »

If the plate is cracked, they are common on ebay and fairly reasonable.  I believe you can substitute Penn 113H drags and metals inthe 349, not an exact fit but work well.  Keta is our resident expert on the 49 family (49, 149, 249, and 349) of reels .  A picture of the crack may help us come up with a solution.  Bill
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grekim
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« Reply #18 on: November 19, 2017, 04:16:07 PM »

Here's the crack.  It would be hidden by the ring, so it's more of a structural concern, not cosmetic.  Scott's has the plate for $11, but it is a different color, so getting two plates would be $26.  I could probably pick up another reel for close to that.


* 349_crack1.jpg (362.98 KB, 608x1624 - viewed 129 times.)

* 349_crack2.jpg (174.2 KB, 728x984 - viewed 130 times.)
« Last Edit: November 19, 2017, 04:17:01 PM by grekim » Logged

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Bill B (Tarfu)
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« Reply #19 on: November 19, 2017, 06:33:20 PM »

Tough choice, no easy fix for that, ebay plates are going for about the same....If not fished hard no worries on the crack, and if a shelfie no worries either....on the otherhabd if you get a donor, you will have spare parts left over....Let us know what you decide.....Bill
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grekim
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« Reply #20 on: November 20, 2017, 02:48:50 PM »

Since I am a surf guy, I won't have much occasion to use this reel.  But, it does hold memories...coming back from Port Jefferson and catching bluefish.  So, I am going to assemble as is.  In fact, having the original plates is kinda part of the whole nostalgia.  

So, now I have a question because I was too quick to pull it apart.  I have the drag assembled which is 3 brass washers and oldtime drag discs Wink.   Remaining are two tension washers and the heavy duty beveled collar.  And the sleeve.  All the other reels I've done have the tension washers on top of the last drag washer.   Is that the case here?....so we go last brass drag washer -> 2 tension washers -> beveled collar -> sleeve -> star drag -> handle?  And the last brass washer is holding the drag stack on the inside.   Thanks!    
« Last Edit: November 20, 2017, 03:26:22 PM by grekim » Logged

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grekim
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« Reply #21 on: November 20, 2017, 03:34:38 PM »

I can not really tell, if there are little white specks in them then yes, otherwise leather.  With the reel in that condition, I would pull the gear sleeve also by punching out the gear sleeve pin, a 1/16" punch does the trick.  Also the trim ring should come off also.  As stated above a couple freeze, warm and freeze should loosen it.  Might even soak the plate in vinegar for a couple hours to further break the corrosion bond. Use a razor blade between the ring edge and plate and carefully twist, just make sure the razor blade is inserted between the screw holes.  I have found the common utility knife blade works well and the edge of the blade will chip and break before the ring is damaged.  Change blades often.   Bill

Picked up the 1/16" punch and got the pin out, yay!   For something like the Penn 9/109 I guess a 1/32" is a better way to go.
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handi2
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« Reply #22 on: November 20, 2017, 03:55:41 PM »

Here is true schematic for that reel but I think you have it right. I would dio the same as your doing if your not going to fish the reel. Keep it original.

https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/349.pdf



"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackles old online store over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
« Last Edit: July 02, 2018, 11:27:00 AM by mizmo67 » Logged

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« Reply #23 on: November 20, 2017, 05:44:05 PM »

WooooHoooo we got another one over to the Darkside Tongue  Good job brother.  Now that it's serviced got to fish it once for the old man.  Then shelf it and remember the good times.  No need to change the plate for a nostalgia fishing trip.

BTW, here's a link to a DIY punch.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=22379.0
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grekim
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« Reply #24 on: November 20, 2017, 06:57:44 PM »

Thanks for the schematic link.  I did see that before, but it shows a more modern design.  Different drag and collar system than mine.

Bill...nice improvised punch there.  If I had a drill press I would try it.

A few observations on this model:
First, I really like the heaviness and massiveness of it.  
The dog setup is cool since the bridge has knobs that hold the dog and dog spring in place rather than being put on a bridge screw that you have to hold in place.
The ecliptic/clutch springs (there are two) are symmetrical.  At first I grabbed the wrong one and it becomes obvious that one goes on one side and so forth.
The spool is simply solid as heck and rings like a bell.
I will post a final picture probably tomorrow.  The spool is still doing a little more air drying.  Whenever I finish a reel I want to take it fishing.  I was walking into my local tackle shop every couple weeks with a new fixed up reel looking for line.  The guy must think I am nuts (and rightly so).
« Last Edit: November 20, 2017, 06:59:23 PM by grekim » Logged

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grekim
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« Reply #25 on: November 21, 2017, 12:29:51 PM »

Here we go....


* 349_collar.jpg (729.6 KB, 1144x1900 - viewed 115 times.)

* 349_clean1.jpg (885.44 KB, 1983x1404 - viewed 119 times.)

* 349_clean2.jpg (886.64 KB, 2145x1350 - viewed 120 times.)
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grekim
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« Reply #26 on: November 24, 2017, 07:56:44 AM »

I've now been working on the Mariner 149.  I had it all put together and then noticed that the dog would slip rather than holding in place when you tried to reel backwards.  I always check before even putting on more than 2 bridge screws if the dog is clicking into position.  And it does do that, but will also easily slip.  Seems like the problem is most likely the dog spring.  I straightened it and put it back in, but there's no improvement.  The dog looks fine and holds if I apply pressure.  So, I guess I will order a new spring.
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« Reply #27 on: November 24, 2017, 08:03:59 AM »

     Without tearing mine apart to look, I would say that the spring only "puts the dog in place"...it doesn't "hold it there". I would suspect , either the end of the dog....or the teeth on the gear sleeve....are worn, so that when pressure is applied, the dog is forced "out" of the teeth, instead of "into" the teeth.
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grekim
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« Reply #28 on: November 24, 2017, 08:21:40 AM »

That could be.  But, that's why I tested it by holding the dog in place and it didn't slip then.  Next time I pull it apart I will post a picture of the gear and dog, but it looked okay to my amateur eye. 
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Bill B (Tarfu)
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« Reply #29 on: November 24, 2017, 09:35:13 AM »

Could it be that you put the dog in backwards?  Done it too many times myself...it will appear to hold but when in actual use it will slip.....Bill
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