Thinking of starting on a 149 or 349

Started by grekim, November 18, 2017, 07:23:41 PM

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grekim

I have a Mariner 149 and a Master Mariner 349 that were my grandfather's (different grandfather than the Mitchell/Penn 9 guy).   I am very comfortable with the Peerless and Longbeach series, so would these be much harder to pull apart and put back together?  Any real problems I should watch out for?   Being shore bound, I doubt I will actually use them, but I am curious about their innards and it would be nice to better preserve what's left of them.   Thanks in advance!
Educating fish on every trip

Dominick

Quote from: grekim on November 18, 2017, 07:23:41 PM
I have a Mariner 149 and a Master Mariner 349 that were my grandfather's (different grandfather than the Mitchell/Penn 9 guy).   I am very comfortable with the Peerless and Longbeach series, so would these be much harder to pull apart and put back together?  Any real problems I should watch out for?   Being shore bound, I doubt I will actually use them, but I am curious about their innards and it would be nice to better preserve what's left of them.   Thanks in advance!
No just go for it.  If you run into trouble we are here for you.  Dominick
Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

There are two things I don't like about fishing.  Getting up early in the morning and boats.  The rest of it is fun.

grekim

#2
Well, no excuse now.  Thank you!

Quick question.  Both have trolling wire.  I'm not sure if it makes any sense to save any of it, but could it be transferred temporarily to a longbeach 68 or is that not so good for the 68?
Educating fish on every trip

foakes

Unless you are going to use it for deepwater salt-trolling -- I would just remove the wire and toss it away.

Restore the reel to as near new as you can -- if just a display piece leave line off -- if you are going to use it -- you can install new line of your choice at that time.

These are great reels -- but for most fishing conditions today -- their use is limited and specific -- deep water trolling or deep drops.

Guys like Lee, and a few others on our site are experts at restoring and modifying these well made tanks.

IMO, the order of quality and strength of these Mariners is:

149 -- weakest

49 -- stronger

349. -- strongest

There are many variations like the "H", Supers, and more -- but these are nice reels, and good for display, or to use -- if your fishing target works for this type of reel (salmon, halibut, etc)..

If you get stuck on anything -- let us know.

Plus post some pics of your progress.

Best,

Fred

The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

Rancanfish

Any old Penn reel without a level wind is doable.  If something goes wrong you are in the right place.  It's just a big Longbeach, only different.
I woke today and suddenly nothing happened.

akfish

The 149 and 349 are among the easiest reels to work on. However, be aware that parts for the 349 are very difficult to get; you can get most of what you might need for the 149. BTW: There was a fourth reel in this series, the 249. It was a knuckle buster with no drag or anti-reverse.
Taku Reel Repair
Juneau, Alaska
907.789.2448

sdlehr

Quote from: akfish on November 18, 2017, 08:10:00 PM
BTW: There was a fourth reel in this series, the 249. It was a knuckle buster with no drag or anti-reverse.
And it's hard to understand how/why they sold so many of them for so many years.... but they are harder to find than any of the others in the series. I guess the popularity was based on the idea that it's hard to change people's behavior, and the old timers that grew up with knucklebusters just didn't want anything to do with those newfangled drags and anti-reverse contraptions.... I guess it says a lot about human nature.... Sorry, I'm away from my resources and can't look up how long the 249 was in production.....

Sid
Sid Lehr
Veterinarian, fishing enthusiast, custom rod builder, reel collector

Crow

#7
    Initial cost may have factored in, too, Sid.....$.50 doesn't seem like much, to us, but, in the 40's ?
There's nothing wrong with a few "F's" on your record....Food, Fun, Flowers, Fishing, Friends, and Fun....to name just a few !

Bill B

Be REAL careful with the trim rings on the 349......if they crack about the only way to get a replacement is buy a donor reel.....Bill
It may not be very productive,
but it's sure going to be interesting!

Tiddlerbasher


grekim

#10
Thanks for the info!  The first challenge was getting the handle screw to turn.   I got it, but it was a little ugly.   I took care not to bend the handle.  I'm glad you warned me about the rings.  I left one on because it would not budge.  The inside looks pretty good considering.    The threads on the shaft for the main gear look bad, but the star drag seems to turn fine.  The only things missing are one side screw and the handle lock screw.  Unfortunately, there is a very small crack near the edge of one of the side plates.  What do you guys do to prevent these from spreading?

Penn Master Mariner 349:
Educating fish on every trip

Swami805

Put the side plate in the freezer overnight, that might shrink it enough to get the ring off.
Might try some epoxy for the crack, the trick would be getting it thin enough so a little gets in the crack, maybe a little heat to thin it a bit.
Do what you can with that you have where you are

grekim

#12
Here are most of the parts cleaned up with simple green and vinegar.  The main gear and shaft are much improved.  I actually couldn't get the main gear off until it soaked overnight.  
Educating fish on every trip

grekim

Do you think these are "brake material"?
Educating fish on every trip

Bill B

I can not really tell, if there are little white specks in them then yes, otherwise leather.  With the reel in that condition, I would pull the gear sleeve also by punching out the gear sleeve pin, a 1/16" punch does the trick.  Also the trim ring should come off also.  As stated above a couple freeze, warm and freeze should loosen it.  Might even soak the plate in vinegar for a couple hours to further break the corrosion bond. Use a razor blade between the ring edge and plate and carefully twist, just make sure the razor blade is inserted between the screw holes.  I have found the common utility knife blade works well and the edge of the blade will chip and break before the ring is damaged.  Change blades often.   Bill
It may not be very productive,
but it's sure going to be interesting!