alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Mo's 265 Microlite Project
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
November 12, 2019, 04:52:02 AM *
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Author Topic: Mo's 265 Microlite Project  (Read 3589 times)
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foakes
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« Reply #30 on: August 09, 2018, 07:38:59 AM »

I just picked up a Microlite to be delivered today Grin   What is the "265"?  Is there more than one Microlite model?  

This will take the place of the Penn 430SS sold to AM Wink

265 is just the model number assigned to this Microlite back in its 1961 introduction.

I am building out 16 of these currently for folks — out of new and restored parts.

Microlite as a name is only on one DQ reel — the 265.  And 265 is not on the outside of the reel, anyplace.  Just on some interior parts, and the bottom of the spool.

However, there are other Microlite DQ reels — 110, 110N, 1000, 1001.

Best,

Fred
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mo65
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« Reply #31 on: August 09, 2018, 11:43:20 AM »

An original 265 Microlite has only (1) very tiny, but tough resistex ring washer under the metal spool.

   So that explains it! Which one of you mugs slipped that extra brass washer in there? Cheesy Grin Wink


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« Reply #32 on: August 09, 2018, 01:19:18 PM »

Very interesting the size diffrence in drag washers, from picture #4 on page 1. I recall from a lengthy thread/debate, that physically, compression force is more important to drag pressure generated, than surface area. Surface area does help with dissipating excess heat energy though.
OK, now I know where the risistex washer goes. Any way to tell that a DAM drag component is risistex? Also, would a 50 - 53 year model have a risistex washer in it?
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« Reply #33 on: August 09, 2018, 01:44:01 PM »

Any way to tell that a DAM drag component is risistex? Also, would a 50 - 53 year model have a risistex washer in it?

Unless they have been changed out, they are all resistex.

Resistex is just a marketing name.  These can be ID’d since they are a hard, stiff, rusty-red material.  They are pretty smooth, but will not compress out of shape.

Sometimes we try to make our reels do more than they were designed for.  But even if landing a 12 pound German Brown, on a lucky occasion — these reels are up to the task.

If you are catching large fish on a regular basis — a larger and stronger reel is advisable.

Best,

Fred


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« Last Edit: August 09, 2018, 01:45:22 PM by foakes » Logged

Patience...and the rewards that come with it -- need to be experienced...otherwise, it isn't patience!


What's the difference between a worthwhile plan and a vision?

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« Reply #34 on: August 09, 2018, 02:39:23 PM »

Very interesting the size diffrence in drag washers, from picture #4 on page 1. I recall from a lengthy thread/debate, that physically, compression force is more important to drag pressure generated, than surface area.

   I read that same debate G. I agree compression force is a factor...but surface area is just as critical a factor. For example, take a Penn stock 3-stack, and change it to a 5-stack. All of a sudden you have 20-25lbs. max power instead of 10-15lbs. All that changed in the equation is surface area. Cool
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« Reply #35 on: August 09, 2018, 06:39:36 PM »

Hmmmmm... Yeah, ok.
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« Reply #36 on: August 10, 2018, 02:55:39 AM »

Thanks for posting the picture and model number.  I had one exactly like that but it was stolen.

My only problem was when I tried 2lb line that would wrap around the drag blade when it was windy.  

I noticed later microlites have a more tapered blade so it wouldn't be a problem.


I have an excellent Fenwick Ferrralite FS55 (5'-6") UL rod waiting for the day I get a replacement 265.
« Last Edit: August 10, 2018, 03:00:23 AM by Danwin22 » Logged

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mo65
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« Reply #37 on: July 11, 2019, 08:33:12 AM »

My only problem was when I tried 2lb line it would wrap around the drag blade when it was windy.  

   I get that occasionally with my 265 also...even using heavier lines.
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« Reply #38 on: October 09, 2019, 05:28:19 AM »

Hello folks, I am new to this forum - and what a great source of info!
I recently bought a Quick Microlite 265 at a yard sale. It seems to be in good shape except for a couple of small divots in the coating on the spool. And it needs a good overall cleaning and servicing. Before I start taking it apart, does anyone have any advice for do’s and dont’s, lubricants, etc.? Can the spool divots be repaired?
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« Reply #39 on: October 09, 2019, 06:18:16 AM »

Before I start taking it apart, does anyone have any advice for do’s and dont’s, lubricants, etc.? Can the spool divots be repaired?

   Hello, welcome aboard! You'll want to used lighter lubes on these Microlites...heavier grease gives them a stiff unnatural feel. As long as those spool "divots" don't feel sharp or snag your fingers, just leave them alone. Anything you do to smooth them usually makes them look worse. Cool
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« Reply #40 on: October 09, 2019, 06:37:59 AM »

Welcome aboard, Parge!

Your 265 Microlite is basically a reel that is 60 years old +/- 2 years.

My approach would be a complete disassemble, cleaning of all parts, old grease evacuation, burnishing of the gear sleeves, reassemble using a mix of light grease and synthetic oil for the bearing and gears.

There are a few cautions on these -- the main one being -- the rotating head (rotor) is made of aluminum -- and is threaded onto the worm drive thru pinion.  These threads are very fine, and it is easy to strip them out on the rotor if not squarely rethreaded carefully.  Also, there are two versions (earlier & later) of this reel -- and each has a different worm gear thread pattern (clockwise or counterclockwise).  So make sure the removal and reattachment of the rotor is in the proper direction.

This is my personal favorite DQ reel for trout fishing.

If you get stuck -- let us know -- and if any parts are needed -- we should be able to help out.

Pics would help.

Best,

Fred
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Patience...and the rewards that come with it -- need to be experienced...otherwise, it isn't patience!


What's the difference between a worthwhile plan and a vision?

Your good, worthwhile  plan will always keep changing...However, a good vision will always remain constant and unchanging...
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« Reply #41 on: October 09, 2019, 01:22:38 PM »

Thanks for the help guys! Here are a few pics before I start cleaning.


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« Reply #42 on: October 09, 2019, 01:31:10 PM »

And a few more pics...


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« Reply #43 on: October 09, 2019, 01:48:12 PM »

Hello folks, I am new to this forum - and what a great source of info!
I recently bought a Quick Microlite 265 at a yard sale. It seems to be in good shape except for a couple of small divots in the coating on the spool.  Can the spool divots be repaired?

It appears the nicks are on the outer lip of the spool and the metal is not chipped,. If it were mine I would sand/file the nick surfaces down until they are completely smooth. If there is still a gouged surface I would fill that little nick with JB Weld, or some other epoxy based filler, and sand/file it smooth. Whether filled or not I would then paint the entire lip with an epoxy based spray paint and then give it a clear coat. I'm anal about nicks or chips on the front lips of spools. It doesn't take much to nick mono, especially the lighter UL weights like 2, 4 & 6# test. 
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foakes
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« Reply #44 on: October 09, 2019, 02:17:35 PM »

I would agree with Tommy on the spool nicks --

Another way to go would be to chuck the spool up in a drill -- then smooth the nicked edge with a fine file -- followed by a fine abrasive.  Then you can either leave it as is with a shiny silver edge -- clear coat it, or paint it -- your choice.

Judging by your good photos -- it may have some slight rust issues in the area of the spool spindle insides, and some of the exterior chromed over brass pieces.  However, these should all clean up just fine.

You will need new drag components -- metal disc, leather or plastic disc, wavy spring washer for drag adjuster, and a new under spool resistex washer.

Springs look OK -- although it could probably benefit from a new bail spring.

And the trip lever looks a little ragged -- but can be cleaned and burnished -- and slightly bent back upwards 3/64" to be square (after time and the bail flipping back -- they get a little distorted -- and this could affect line lay on the spool).

"0000" steel wool, followed up with Nevr-Dull and a polishing micro fiber cloth on the handle crank.  It will shine like a mirror.

All metal non-painted parts can be cleaned with a solvent such as lacquer thinner or lighter fluid.  Mineral spirits will also work -- but is much slower.

All painted parts could be cleaned with HD Dawn dish soap overnight -- and a toothbrush -- assuming you do not have an ultrasonic cleaner.  Same with the plastic crank knob -- and any other plastic pieces.

If you decide that you need any parts -- I do have those available to members.

Looking forward to seeing it done.

Best,

Fred
« Last Edit: October 09, 2019, 07:36:49 PM by foakes » Logged

Patience...and the rewards that come with it -- need to be experienced...otherwise, it isn't patience!


What's the difference between a worthwhile plan and a vision?

Your good, worthwhile  plan will always keep changing...However, a good vision will always remain constant and unchanging...
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