Kenstix ~ older Penn 20 troubleshoot

Started by Kenstix, February 15, 2018, 04:13:15 AM

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Kenstix

May have found siurce of Zinging , what'cha think Tightlines ?

Tightlines667

#1
The line is normal wear on your clicker ratchet plate.  This simply effects how load your clicker is.  Until the holes become somewhat oblong, and the edges no longer crisp, it doesn't need replacing.  You may have a spacing issue (but I always say that since any wear in a reel will result in the spacing being somewhat off).

Putting fresh grease on the reel, and reassembling/testing subassemblies, b4 disassembling and looking for grease displacement.. or simple trial and error shimming may be in order.  I always clean everything first, then test the bearings, and replace any with felt roughness given a side load, then I replace the Bellevilles (cupped washers) with new, precondition the drag, grease reassemble, test, shim as needed, and re-test.

I don't see any obvious problems in the photos you've posted so far.

May be that the metal drag plate is badly scored, and needs to be honed flat, or the carbon fiber disc is not flat (unevenly worn, or salt/intrusion under the CF. 

You're gonna have to keep digging.

These are not the quietest reels out there to begin with, though fresh grease does quiet them down a bit.

John
Hope springs eternal
for the consumate fishermen.

Kenstix

#2
K Thanks - so which style ( Need to find out which Drag I have ? ) the Tan Cal's  ?

Tightlines667

I use tan Cal's for the drag, and Penn blue on everything else.  The you can remove the bearing shields to clean them thoroughly, and leave the spool bearings unshielded and lightly oiled with corrosion X if you want better freespool, but I usually pack them with grease, and replace the shields for trolling applications.

John
Hope springs eternal
for the consumate fishermen.

Kenstix

#4
 Thanks again ~ I was unspooling the Mono last night ( so I could get a peek at the drag) But right b4 I was done the line caught + yanked the Vise dowel + Spool right off the towel on the Arm of the Couch , Hit the Floor and the spool popped apart saving me the chore of unrigging the Left side stuff . Luckily Nothing got Bent or Dinged when it crashed but the Beautiful News is that it's the Most Worn out Drag and Plate i've ever imagined , being an 82yr. it may be asbestos ( Grey and Glazed like the steel it's been wearing against . I just want the simplist replacement I can do because I'm certain it is the Root of everything that i was sensing goin' on.  Then I think the Shimming of bellevilles could be be a really Dialed in procedure as well ~ I just haven't ever done an Intl. . ( will need tips ) the fiber washer was popped right off the plate on the floor . I must show how old it is in Pic later tonight , gotta go do some errands now , Kenstix .

Oh , almost forgot - with the 1180934 can I use my same gear Shaft ? wont it just go like OEM  ?  Thanks

handi2

Yes show the pictures when you can. I have a lot of the old International parts. I should have a few of the HT-100 drag plates for that reel.
OCD Reel Service & Repair
Gulf Breeze, FL

Tightlines667

That sounds like good news.  I would clean and test the bearings, and procure a new ht-100 drag washer, metal drag disc/plate, new set of Bellevilles, a few shims, and any needed bearings (the pinion is almost always shot on a neclected reel), then clean the reel up while you await your parts. 

Keith or myself may be able to help you out on parts, if you just let us know what you need.

John
Hope springs eternal
for the consumate fishermen.

Kenstix

#7
  Thanks , appreciate that . I am pouring some long wahoo heads right now but wanted to take a coffee break + relax for a few . I'll start at an xtra thing that hit me , it makes sense to me know - I believe what I was feeling ( never had my other Intl. 50 that I Cal'd out in the 90's - ever felt like of course )  was the wierdest snag and pull spot of Any reel I've had Drags go - on .  From my general life experience with Reels , building a few Harleys back I T D , Rifles and Guitars it's my opinion The Bearings feel perfectly fine and the pinion and Gears look pristine as well ( not chewing or Nicks of Any kind ( the Reel is well greased though ~ Throughout. I suspect a possibility ,  being an 82 yr. that it didn't get much initial use for years + then after the drags were 30 + yrs. went on some trips that the user was slammin that sucker down ( or hit with big fish on a kinda buffed strike setting trolling on some trips - who knows . I'll check out tighter thursday but so far , I think the 2 Drag parts and the little washers will probably suffice . Also I show U guys the Well - Metal plated (glazed ) fiber washer ( I outta check the fiber washer with a N50 magnet : )  I also dont think I will try to even Dress the solo metal drag plate either - Pics tomorrow

Kenstix

#8
 Oh, but I forgot what Alan said before  ---> "  Re: first post not sure what he's talking about, but the 20T uses a 117DN-30 drag plate.  https://www.mysticparts.com/
Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/20t.pdf the plain 20 uses that floating drag washer that looks like car brake.  here's the schematic "

maybe that's why U guys like Converting / upgrading a bit more , but I'm thinkin' that fixed back up with N O S Drag I should be cool to do some fish stoppin ' for some time ~ on this reel .

oh + p.S. , stragely enuf there is no Corrosion on the Interior of the Reel that I can see



"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackles old online store over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

ez2cdave


Donnyboat

Yes Dave you right, CF drag, would not be much dearer, than the old drag gear, now that you have it open, do it right, good luck, cheers Don.
Don, or donnyboat

Kenstix

#11
 I want to do things Right as well , I haven't worked on any Reel in 15 years . I'm here asking to understand and just dont want to make a 2 month deal with this reel . plz check pic , can this Drag with the holes go in and Replace the original floating Fiber Drag ?   This one is Carbon Fiber correct ?  Thanks

handi2

Your drive plate should have a metal center piece that is held in with screws. Remove that piece and the new drag plate should screw to the original drive plate...
OCD Reel Service & Repair
Gulf Breeze, FL

Tightlines667

Quote from: handi2 on February 17, 2018, 05:15:37 PM
Your drive plate should have a metal center piece that is held in with screws. Remove that piece and the new drag plate should screw to the original drive plate...


X2
Hope springs eternal
for the consumate fishermen.

Kenstix

#14
 Ok , I have them in front of me ( way easier than a 4/0 for sure ) I ordered the 6A~30 from Scott's last night with Paypal. I wonder why they didn't just build the Drag fixed to the Plate like the intermdiate one now ~ 4th. gen. ( Why'd it take em' so Long to Get Smart ? not Maxwell : ) In The 1st PLace ,Why Float it ?  just Received the Plain Steel Drag plate + it's so unscored / brushed that I dont know if it's ever fought a fish .  My question for today is - Should I wet sand it ( or Dry ) to actually put some texture on the surface of it ? If so , what grit is best 180, 220, 320 , etc. ?

 plz Check Pic