tiagra 16

Started by alantani, December 07, 2008, 04:49:55 PM

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alantani

to look at the schematic for this reel....

http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Shimano/Shimano%20ti%2016.pdf

.....  you'd think that some engineer somewhere had waaayyyy too much time on his hands.  lots of little pieces!  but it's not impossible either. 



now, before we jump into this reel, let's talk about it first.  the drags are greased carbon fiber.  i consider them to be the industry standard.  drag failures for greased carbon fiber are virtually unheard of.  what about the bearings?  shimano arb bearings are already open.  with no shields to hold water in, the risk of bearing failure should be lower.  shimano also has their own special grease bearings which is pretty good stuff.  give the spool a spin.  if the freespool is ok for the type of fishing you do, let's leave the bearings alone.  how about drag range?  i like a 30% drag setting.  let's say you have 65 pound spectra and a 50 pound topshot.  if this reel can give you 15 pounds of drag, you should be all set.  straight out of the box, there is very little danger of reel failure because of salt water intrusion and subsequent corrosion.  if the reel delivers, let's leave it be.  or you could be like me and just be curious....

want to open it up and take a peek inside?  ok, let's start by greasing all the right side plate screws (key #601).  you'll need a metric torx bit.



back out the stand screws (key #528), one at a time, shoot in a bead of grease and re-install the screws.



grease the rod clamp bolts (key #646 or 649)



back out the left side plate screws (key #601 and 645).



remove the left side plate assembly (key #644) and set it aside.



the spool comes out cleanly and in one piece.



note the orientation of the anti-reverse ratchet (key #529).  it's easy to put on backwards.



remove the cooling shield screws and washers (key #641 and 640).



set the cooling shield (key #639) and pressure plate (B) (key #637) aside.  remove the drag pressure plate screws (key #636). 



remove the drag plate (key #635).  see the little springs?



pull the out the drag plate springs (key #630) ....



and set them aside, some place nice and safe.



the pinion shaft (key #625) has two cross pins (key #626) and a pressure plate spring (key #634). 



pull the pins and spring, then the drag washer assembly, and set them aside.



here's the pinion shaft (key #625) with bearing, bellville's and thrust washers in order.  the white grease is shimano's bearing grease.  this product is much lighter than the drag grease and works very well.  cleaning out the bearings will improve freespool.  if 30 seconds of freespool is not needed for your application, leave the grease in the bearings. 



i opted to clean out the bearings.



i removed a thrust washer (key #42A), added two belleville pre-load springs (key #40A) and changed the stack of bellevilles from the stock configuration of "(())" to "((()))".



to get the spacing right, i ended up moving that thrust washer to the left side of the spool....



reinstall the cross pin.



now let's look at the drag washer.



add a thick coat of shimano drag grease.



wipe off all the excess.



until it looks dry.



re-install the drag washer assembly.



re-install the pressure plate spring and cross pin.



re-install the drag plate springs (key #630).  a bead of grease is very helpful here.



reinstall the drag plate (key #635) and screws (key #636).



regrease and clean the second drag washer assembly.



drop the drag washer assembly back onto the spool shaft.



check out the rubber gasket.  this is similar to the system found in shimano tld series.  when the lever is forward and the drag washer is engaged, the gasket locks up against the spool cap and the drag chamber is sealed to prevent water intrusion.  like the tld series, you rinse off your tiagras while they are in gear. 



grease the screw holes.



install the cooling shield (key #639).



re-install the anti-reverse ratchet (key #529).  the bearing spacer (key #642) and bearing thrust washer (key #567) are hidden under the grease.



more screw holes to grease.



re-install the side plate screws.  the long one goes in at the 12 o'clock position.



done!  here are the specs.  not so bad for a non-blue printed reel!



see, that wasn't to bad!
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

alantani

Quote

New question for you....I have a Shimano Tiagra 30 that's about 10 years old and I have never had it serviced.  It still works great.  I do clean it after every use and lube it. I think you do reel repair....Can you up grade this reel with what ever internal components are in a Tiagra 30 LRS.  I understand the LRS components are much beefier.  Thanks in advance for any info....   JR


hi, john!  here are the schematics for the two reels.

http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Conventional/05TI30A_v1_m56577569830634017.pdf

http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Conventional/05TI30WLRSA_v1_m56577569830634003.pdf

if the drags are smooth and the spool spins freely, you should be good.  the long range special has a longer spool shaft (key #542) and a more agressive cam/lever shaft body (key #541).  if my memory is correct, the stock configuration of the bellevilles is "(())((".  this can be changed in either reel to a stiffer "((()))" with dramatic results.  you get a higher drag range, but the price that you pay is that every small turn of the preset knob gives you big jumps in drag pressure.  it can be difficult to adjust.   otherwise, the reels are identical.  alan

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

alantani

Quote

Alan, Just to let you know. I had written to you about a Tiagra 30 that was giving me fits (drag was too tight early in the drag curve), despite having loosened the pre-program dial. I could not get myself to ship it to Shimano without trying one more time. I kept thinking about what you had written about the cam. So I took it apart one more time and figured out that the cam was rotated 180 degrees in the wrong direction. Problem is fixed and the last reel I have to fix is an old Penn 80W. I ordered the parts and will complete it when I can. All the reel maintenance will be done before the first tuna trip of the year. The weather has been atrocious here, so I have not even been chasing specks or reds inside.  Of note, some guys I work with have heard that I have rebuilt my TLD 2-speeds and Tiagras and have been hinting if I might fix theirs. Ha!Thanks again.


careful, that's how i started.  and look where it's gotten me! ;D
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Bryan Young

Hi Alan,

Okay, I just serviced my first Tiagra 16.  After completing the service, I could not shift the drag lever into the full position.  Hmm, I took the left side plate apart and then the lever shifted all the way to full...hmm, I was stumped.  Then I tried it again and I could not get the lever past strike.  Okay, I needed a beer...unfortunately, it was a non-alcoholic one so my brain was still running with trouble shooting ideas instead of slowing it down to see the bigger picture.  Then I tried it again, and it went to full.  What the...what I didn't notice was that there was a drag control button that stopped the lever in strike until you depressed the drag control button on the lever to move it past strike after I was just dumbfounded that I spent an hour studying the entire reel's schematics except the lever assembly.

Lesson, when studying the schematics, look at EVERYTHING.

Bryan
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

alantani

you know, bryan. i thought you knew that button was there......   ;D
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Roger

Bryan , Real beer is good for the brain. It gets rid of all the nonfunctioning brain cells..........      

Roger

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."   Mark Twain

UKChris

So that would be the buffalo theory of beer drinking...

A herd of buffalo can only move as fast as the slowest buffalo,
much like the brain can only operate as fast as the slowest brain cells.
The slowest buffalo are the sick and weak so they die off first,
making it possible for the herd to move at a faster pace.
Like the buffalo, the weak, slow brain cells are the ones that are killed off by
excessive beer drinking and socializing, making the brain operate faster.

:D

ololavov

Alright. I've bought some reel grease from daiwa, and i was wondering if i could use it to grease the drag on my tiagra 16. What do you guys think?
http://daiwafishing.com.au/products/service-products/. I started to wonder because daiwa have a "special" grease to use on your drag.

Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B

if it says drag grease then it's safe to use on your drags. if it does not, i will not use it on drags. check the link and there are 2 types of drag grease, the 501 and the 555, it seems the 555 is for UTD system AKA CF washers and the 501 is an all around lighter grease for any reel apps. hope this helps, good luck!

ololavov

#9
Thank you for the answer :)
Mine is the 50605, so i don't know what to do right now. I have som regular grease laying around in the house, but i guess it would be very stupid to put inon the drag.

alantani

make sure you have a pure teflon grease.  if you are not sure, use the shimano drag grease or order some cal's grease from smoothdrag.com.  dawn will ship overseas.  do not use a hydrocarbon based grease because it will get sticky. 
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!