alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Shimano Curado 200DHSV - standard servicing
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: Shimano Curado 200DHSV - standard servicing  (Read 70185 times)
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redsetta
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« on: July 30, 2011, 12:28:01 AM »

Low-profile baitcasters are (when well made) phenominal little power packs.
They can be a hassle to work on, especially if they haven't been maintained, as the finer parts can fuse together and they don't like too much force.
I like this Curado 200DHSV, though generally prefer conventionals (for being more robust).
Righto, let's get into it. First up, remove the handle nut plate.



Corrosion tends to build up under the plate - which is clearly visible here.
Remove the handle nut next.



Remove the star drag, the star drag click plate and the spring beneath.



The start drag nut is next, beneath which is a spacer.



This is followed by two spring washers.
Once removed, flip the frame over and twist the turnkey dial anti-clockwise to release the left side plate.



Pivot the plate to expose the spool (and brake blocks) and slide it out.



Back on the right side again, remove the frame screws and note their placement - each of the four is different.
Slide out the anti-reverse bearing and put aside for cleaning and relubing.



Slide the roller clutch inner tube off the drive shaft and then remove the main gear.



Remove the drag washer from beneath the main gear. It's likely to be stuck in place, so use a Exacto blade (or similar) to gently separate the washer from the gear.
The washer is delicate and may need replacing (or, ideally, upgrading to Carbontex).
Slide off the anti-reverse ratchet.



Off comes the dog, then the pinion and yoke.



One frame screw holds the thumb rest in place.
Two hold the clutch cam retainer. This can be quite corroded, so buff any flaking metal back with a small file or fine sandpaper.



Remove the clutch cam and clutch pawl.



Remove the clutch pawl spring and undo the two screws holding the drive shaft in place.



Take apart the drive shaft assembly.
Clean all the parts thoroughly and check for wear or damage.
Grease and reassemble the drive shaft components, and replace into the frame.
Reassemble to level wind components, ie worm, bushings, level wind guard, line guide etc as follows:
Slide in the stabliser bar, passing it through the line guide.



Slip on the c-clip and click it into place.
Slide the level wind gurad through and align the worm shaft bushing (B).



Back on the right side, align the worm shaft bushing (A), which also locks off the right side of the stabiliser bar.
Replace the washer and c-clip on the left side of the worm shaft.



In goes the pawl and on with the pawl cap.



Replace the thumb rest and reaffix.



Replace the main spool bearing and lube with a drop of ReelX (or similar).



Refit the clutch pawl spring and clutch pawl, then slip the clutch cam back into place.



The clutch cam retainer is next and is help in place by two screws.
Then the yoke and pinion, followed by the two yoke springs...



The drag washer was toast, so was replaced.
First down the drive shaft is the anti-reverse ratchet.



This is followed by the new drag washer, greased with Cal's.



The dog slides onto the ratchet first and then onto its frame pin.
The main gear was rough, so a wire brush was administered.



Followed by a treatment with very fine-grit sandpaper.



Slide the main gear back into place and insert the greased drag washer.



The keyed washer is next, followed by the roller clutch inner tube.



Replace the anti-reverse bearing and re-fit the side plate.



Slide the bellevilles (ie drag spring washers) back into place, followed by the star drag spacer.



On goes the star drag nut and spring.



Nearly there now... Star drag and clicker plate next. Align the star drag recess with the drag nut and slide one onto the other.
Fit the handle and fasten down the handle nut.



Refit the handle nut plate and insert the spool.
Put a drop of ReelX on either end of the spool shaft.



Close the left side place and rotate the turnkey dial to lock.



Job done.



One last pic: my workshop.



All the best, Justin
« Last Edit: August 07, 2017, 03:34:54 PM by redsetta » Logged

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redsetta
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« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2011, 02:17:28 AM »

PS I've updated this post with the missing level wind assembly pics (they corrupted on the first rebuild).
Cheers, Justin
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reelgood
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« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2011, 08:55:20 PM »

Thanks for the tutorial, those silver curados are really nice, better than the newer green ones.  I have the 100DSV with carbontex upgrade, very solid reel, sometimes you can pick them up cheap on ebay from sellers who just think it's an older model, often they sell for more than the newer ones.
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redsetta
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« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2011, 09:27:45 PM »

Cheers reelgood.
The owner loves this reel and has caught a lot of good snapper on it - even taking eight on his first 'lucanus' trip last week (mid winter). http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_fish/en/us/index/products/lucanus_jig_system/what_is_lucanus_.html
All the best, Justin
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Craig N
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« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2011, 11:22:53 AM »

Thanks for the tutorial.  I just did a carbontex upgrade to one, with two more to follow.  The reel is feeling great after a little TLC, and I look forward to sprucing up the other two DHSV's in my lineup. Thanks again.

-CN
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redsetta
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« Reply #5 on: September 07, 2011, 12:48:58 PM »

No worries, Craig - glad it was of some assistance.
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TravHale
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« Reply #6 on: June 01, 2012, 09:17:18 AM »

Is anyone aware if the procedure for the new Curados would be about the same?
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redsetta
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« Reply #7 on: June 01, 2012, 02:04:49 PM »

G'day Trav,
Aside from a few small variations, such as a couple of ball bearings in the handle in some models, it's essentially identical.
If you run into any issues, let us know.
Cheers, Justin
« Last Edit: June 01, 2012, 02:57:01 PM by redsetta » Logged

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TravHale
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« Reply #8 on: August 02, 2012, 10:41:47 AM »

G'day Trav,
Aside from a few small variations, such as a couple of ball bearings in the handle in some models, it's essentially identical.
If you run into any issues, let us know.
Cheers, Justin

Ive serviced them a few times now and everything appears to be identical--besides the bearings in the handles as you mentioned.
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Whiteman
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« Reply #9 on: October 18, 2012, 02:58:21 PM »

Redsetta, I used your tutorial to service and upgrade washers on my 100B. Thanks mate, it really helped. But three things that had me stumped somewhat that you may consider ....

- I could not find the large drag washer. Your instructions show only one washer and I thought this was the one located under the Drive Gear (#1214). Smoothdrag sent me two washers for the reel and I had to google search out the location of the other (#2360) as it wasn't obvious to the unskilled eye that it was contained within the Drive Gear.
- the Anti-reverse pawl (#2404) gave me issues. I could not work out why it would not check up the anti-reverse when I reinstalled it. Seems some people actually get rid of this part altogether and I considered this until I tried pinching the "arms" onto the anti-reverse ratchet (#2398) as they were a little out of shape. It now works perfectly
- Clutch pawl spring (#2168) - any "spring" is a source of frustration in a reel I find. In this case it was really difficult to find the tiny hole in the frame which anchored one side. I resorted to a magnifying glass under strong light to find the hole once I cleared all the old grease away. Then I worked out the small side of the spring went into this hole and the longer side attached to the clutch pawl. I found a site which had photos of the Curado WITHOUT grease and this was a big help.

Again, thanks for your efforts.
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redsetta
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« Reply #10 on: October 18, 2012, 03:47:18 PM »

Cheers WM, glad it was of some assistance.
I can understand that these little baitcasters can be tricky.
I included pics of both drag washers, but could probably have added more specific instruction, ie aside from 'Slide the main gear back into place and insert the greased drag washer.'



Those Ambassadeur-style AR dogs can be problematic - but it functions mainly as a fail-safe for the AR bearing (which, again, can be problematic).
Like many round here, I'm a fan of sprung dogs, doubled where possible Wink
All the best, Justin
« Last Edit: August 07, 2017, 03:36:02 PM by redsetta » Logged

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Norskov
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« Reply #11 on: November 15, 2012, 08:04:13 AM »

Great tutorial! It helped me a lot! Compared to my Calcutta TE this was very easy!
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nagz
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« Reply #12 on: December 15, 2012, 09:16:14 PM »

I just serviced one of these fine reels
I performed my cleaning and lubricating as per the tutorial, but the reel turned out rough and noisy
Opened it up and found the noise originated from the drive gear and pinion gear
They were both cleaned and lubricated with cals grease
Does anyone know what might be causing this?
Cheers
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nagz
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« Reply #13 on: December 15, 2012, 11:52:58 PM »

Problem solved
I literally tried everything minus carving a new set I gears from stone with my teeth
The problem was the small "pad" that sits behind the spool bearing on the non crank side was worn right out. Replaced this and everything fit together nice and smooth
Who would've thought? Not me, hence I just lost a Sunday lol
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Zimbass
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« Reply #14 on: December 23, 2012, 10:54:34 PM »

Redsetta, I used your tutorial to service and upgrade washers on my 100B. Thanks mate, it really helped. But three things that had me stumped somewhat that you may consider ....

- I could not find the large drag washer. Your instructions show only one washer and I thought this was the one located under the Drive Gear (#1214). Smoothdrag sent me two washers for the reel and I had to google search out the location of the other (#2360) as it wasn't obvious to the unskilled eye that it was contained within the Drive Gear.
- the Anti-reverse pawl (#2404) gave me issues. I could not work out why it would not check up the anti-reverse when I reinstalled it. Seems some people actually get rid of this part altogether and I considered this until I tried pinching the "arms" onto the anti-reverse ratchet (#2398) as they were a little out of shape. It now works perfectly
- Clutch pawl spring (#2168) - any "spring" is a source of frustration in a reel I find. In this case it was really difficult to find the tiny hole in the frame which anchored one side. I resorted to a magnifying glass under strong light to find the hole once I cleared all the old grease away. Then I worked out the small side of the spring went into this hole and the longer side attached to the clutch pawl. I found a site which had photos of the Curado WITHOUT grease and this was a big help.

Again, thanks for your efforts.

Sorry to only post this now. The small side of the spring fits into the clutch pawl, and the longer side goes into the small hole in the frame.
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