Low-profile baitcasters are (when well made) phenominal little power packs.
They can be a hassle to work on, especially if they haven't been maintained, as the finer parts can fuse together and they don't like too much force.
I like this Curado 200DHSV, though generally prefer conventionals (for being more robust).
Righto, let's get into it. First up, remove the handle nut plate.
Corrosion tends to build up under the plate - which is clearly visible here.
Remove the handle nut next.
Remove the star drag, the star drag click plate and the spring beneath.
The start drag nut is next, beneath which is a spacer.
This is followed by two spring washers.
Once removed, flip the frame over and twist the turnkey dial anti-clockwise to release the left side plate.
Pivot the plate to expose the spool (and brake blocks) and slide it out.
Back on the right side again, remove the frame screws and note their placement - each of the four is different.
Slide out the anti-reverse bearing and put aside for cleaning and relubing.
Slide the roller clutch inner tube off the drive shaft and then remove the main gear.
Remove the drag washer from beneath the main gear. It's likely to be stuck in place, so use a Exacto blade (or similar) to gently separate the washer from the gear.
The washer is delicate and may need replacing (or, ideally, upgrading to Carbontex).
Slide off the anti-reverse ratchet.
Off comes the dog, then the pinion and yoke.
One frame screw holds the thumb rest in place.
Two hold the clutch cam retainer. This can be quite corroded, so buff any flaking metal back with a small file or fine sandpaper.
Remove the clutch cam and clutch pawl.
Remove the clutch pawl spring and undo the two screws holding the drive shaft in place.
Take apart the drive shaft assembly.
Clean all the parts thoroughly and check for wear or damage.
Grease and reassemble the drive shaft components, and replace into the frame.
Reassemble to level wind components, ie worm, bushings, level wind guard, line guide etc as follows:
Slide in the stabliser bar, passing it through the line guide.
Slip on the c-clip and click it into place.
Slide the level wind gurad through and align the worm shaft bushing (B).
Back on the right side, align the worm shaft bushing (A), which also locks off the right side of the stabiliser bar.
Replace the washer and c-clip on the left side of the worm shaft.
In goes the pawl and on with the pawl cap.
Replace the thumb rest and reaffix.
Replace the main spool bearing and lube with a drop of ReelX (or similar).
Refit the clutch pawl spring and clutch pawl, then slip the clutch cam back into place.
The clutch cam retainer is next and is help in place by two screws.
Then the yoke and pinion, followed by the two yoke springs...
The drag washer was toast, so was replaced.
First down the drive shaft is the anti-reverse ratchet.
This is followed by the new drag washer, greased with Cal's.
The dog slides onto the ratchet first and then onto its frame pin.
The main gear was rough, so a wire brush was administered.
Followed by a treatment with very fine-grit sandpaper.
Slide the main gear back into place and insert the greased drag washer.
The keyed washer is next, followed by the roller clutch inner tube.
Replace the anti-reverse bearing and re-fit the side plate.
Slide the bellevilles (ie drag spring washers) back into place, followed by the star drag spacer.
On goes the star drag nut and spring.
Nearly there now... Star drag and clicker plate next. Align the star drag recess with the drag nut and slide one onto the other.
Fit the handle and fasten down the handle nut.
Refit the handle nut plate and insert the spool.
Put a drop of ReelX on either end of the spool shaft.
Close the left side place and rotate the turnkey dial to lock.
Job done.
One last pic: my workshop.
All the best, Justin
