Penn Clash 6000 gears not smooth

[Hellraiser]

So I decided to regrease my Clash 6000 and see what the slight rubbing noise was. Upon putting the gears back together,  the gears seem to rub in an unsmooth fashion when I spin the crank and feels rough as though the gears are slightly grinding on each other. I want to say it's coming from the main gear, but looking for an opinion. I have maintenenced my own reels to great success, so I'm a little stumped. Opinions are welcomed

[mizmo67]

There are shims on the main gear on the wide end shaft to help the main and pinion gears mesh better.
The number of shims varies by individual reel. You use as many 8A shims as needed without causing the reel to bind.
Did the shims get misplaced?

https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/cla6000.pdf

[johndtuttle]

So I decided to regrease my Clash 6000 and see what the slight rubbing noise was. Upon putting the gears back together,  the gears seem to rub in an unsmooth fashion when I spin the crank and feels rough as though the gears are slightly grinding on each other. I want to say it's coming from the main gear, but looking for an opinion. I have maintenenced my own reels to great success, so I'm a little stumped. Opinions are welcomed

You also have to re-tighten the Rotor exactly the same every time. As you crank down the rotor nut you change the position of the pinion to the main. If it has "run in" and you change this you will get some felt lack of smoothness.

[mike1010]

So I decided to regrease my Clash 6000 and see what the slight rubbing noise was. Upon putting the gears back together,  the gears seem to rub in an unsmooth fashion when I spin the crank and feels rough as though the gears are slightly grinding on each other. I want to say it's coming from the main gear, but looking for an opinion. I have maintenenced my own reels to great success, so I'm a little stumped. Opinions are welcomed

You also have to re-tighten the Rotor exactly the same every time. As you crank down the rotor nut you change the position of the pinion to the main. If it has "run in" and you change this you will get some felt lack of smoothness.

That's interesting.  I'm having a little trouble arriving at a useful definition of "exactly the same."  I suppose you could use a small torque wrench and test the rotor nut before backing it off.  It wouldn't be as useful to remember the torque from the previous time you installed the nut, because that wouldn't account for "run in" since that time.  Other suggestions?

[Hellraiser]

Well looks like I'm going to have to disassemble it again. I'll check shims and play with the rotor nut. Gotta wait till I get out of work tomorrow, ugh thank you all

[Hellraiser]

There are shims on the main gear on the wide end shaft to help the main and pinion gears mesh better.
The number of shims varies by individual reel. You use as many 8A shims as needed without causing the reel to bind.
Did the shims get misplaced?

https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/cla6000.pdf

I didn't go as far as to take out the shims. When I turn the crank, I get slight grinding, but noticeable. It does seem though the main drive is slightly wobbly. I'm thinking that I should just take it in for maintenance. I've opened my senator, and spinfisher to either maintenance or replace a part, and I've had no issue. My spinfisher is as smooth as butter. This really has me vexed

[FatTuna]

In my experience, rough gears are the result of the following:

Loose side plate. The screws can loosen from use and from the vibration of a boats engine. Sometimes people leave the screws a little too loose after servicing a reel.

Loose rotor nut. I've been seeing this a lot lately.

Misplaced shims. Roughness can be caused by too many or not enough shims. Usually it's the result of losing one or getting them mixed up. Some spinning reels have shims that go over the pinon gear. They may be different sizes.

Gear wear/damaged gears. Probably not the case with this reel because it sounds like the gears felt okay before you took it apart.

Bearing not seated all the way in frame. Sometimes when you pull the bearings out, they don't go back in all the way. The main gear may not be seated all the way in the bearing.

[johndtuttle]

So I decided to regrease my Clash 6000 and see what the slight rubbing noise was. Upon putting the gears back together,  the gears seem to rub in an unsmooth fashion when I spin the crank and feels rough as though the gears are slightly grinding on each other. I want to say it's coming from the main gear, but looking for an opinion. I have maintenenced my own reels to great success, so I'm a little stumped. Opinions are welcomed

You also have to re-tighten the Rotor exactly the same every time. As you crank down the rotor nut you change the position of the pinion to the main. If it has "run in" and you change this you will get some felt lack of smoothness.

That's interesting.  I'm having a little trouble arriving at a useful definition of "exactly the same."  I suppose you could use a small torque wrench and test the rotor nut before backing it off.  It wouldn't be as useful to remember the torque from the previous time you installed the nut, because that wouldn't account for "run in" since that time.  Other suggestions?

Just mark the rotor nut and the rotor with a sharpie, then line them up again we you put it back together. Remember, with the locking plate it doesn't have to be super tight.

[Hellraiser]

In my experience, rough gears are the result of the following:

Loose side plate. The screws can loosen from use and from the vibration of a boats engine. Sometimes people leave the screws a little too loose after servicing a reel.

Loose rotor nut. I've been seeing this a lot lately.

Misplaced shims. Roughness can be caused by too many or not enough shims. Usually it's the result of losing one or getting them mixed up. Some spinning reels have shims that go over the pinon gear. They may be different sizes.
I got it. Rotor nut too tight
Gear wear/damaged gears. Probably not the case with this reel because it sounds like the gears felt okay before you took it apart.

Bearing not seated all the way in frame. Sometimes when you pull the bearings out, they don't go back in all the way. The main gear may not be seated all the way in the bearing.

[Hellraiser]

So I decided to regrease my Clash 6000 and see what the slight rubbing noise was. Upon putting the gears back together,  the gears seem to rub in an unsmooth fashion when I spin the crank and feels rough as though the gears are slightly grinding on each other. I want to say it's coming from the main gear, but looking for an opinion. I have maintenenced my own reels to great success, so I'm a little stumped. Opinions are welcomed

You also have to re-tighten the Rotor exactly the same every time. As you crank down the rotor nut you change the position of the pinion to the main. If it has "run in" and you change this you will get some felt lack of smoothness.

That's interesting.  I'm having a little trouble arriving at a useful definition of "exactly the same."  I suppose you could use a small torque wrench and test the rotor nut before backing it off.  It wouldn't be as useful to remember the torque from the previous time you installed the nut, because that wouldn't account for "run in" since that time.  Other suggestions?

Just mark the rotor nut and the rotor with a sharpie, then line them up again we you put it back together. Remember, with the locking plate it doesn't have to be super tight.

It was this. Thanks a bunch

[Glos]

So I decided to regrease my Clash 6000 and see what the slight rubbing noise was. Upon putting the gears back together,  the gears seem to rub in an unsmooth fashion when I spin the crank and feels rough as though the gears are slightly grinding on each other. I want to say it's coming from the main gear, but looking for an opinion. I have maintenenced my own reels to great success, so I'm a little stumped. Opinions are welcomed

You also have to re-tighten the Rotor exactly the same every time. As you crank down the rotor nut you change the position of the pinion to the main. If it has "run in" and you change this you will get some felt lack of smoothness.

That's interesting.  I'm having a little trouble arriving at a useful definition of "exactly the same."  I suppose you could use a small torque wrench and test the rotor nut before backing it off.  It wouldn't be as useful to remember the torque from the previous time you installed the nut, because that wouldn't account for "run in" since that time.  Other suggestions?

Just mark the rotor nut and the rotor with a sharpie, then line them up again we you put it back together. Remember, with the locking plate it doesn't have to be super tight.

It was this. Thanks a bunch

ahaa, see, and how did you figure out the proper amount of turns.