alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Underhead 501 jigmaster
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
September 18, 2019, 10:28:12 PM *
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Author Topic: Underhead 501 jigmaster  (Read 8003 times)
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Tiddlerbasher
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« Reply #105 on: March 06, 2019, 02:28:52 AM »

Last year I stripped the aluminium parts (most of 'em) from my line spooler and took them to a couple of local anodizing firms for a quote.  Shocked you want how much Shocked
Needless to say they are still bare aluminium. Maybe I'll paint them one day Undecided
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Chuck
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« Reply #106 on: March 10, 2019, 08:02:09 AM »

Hey how did you bend your 6061? No mention of heating but maybe you did.  Iíve heard that it doesnít like to u less you have the perfect temperature
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mhc
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« Reply #107 on: March 11, 2019, 12:42:45 AM »

Hey how did you bend your 6061? No mention of heating but maybe you did.  Iíve heard that it doesnít like to u less you have the perfect temperature
No heat, I didn't want to lose the T6 temper - it was cold formed around a 60mm bar held in a vice using a 3' cheater bar. I'm new to this sort of stuff so I did a bit of web searching about bending Al. Apparently it depends on the thickness and temper as to what minimum radius 6061 can be safely bent without structural damage. I used a chart from Ullrich Aluminium Company Ltd Australia's website as a guide;



For 6.0mm thick 6061 T6 the minimum radius = 4t (or 24mm). I'm thinking the 30 mm (ish) radius that my piece ended up after being bent around the 60mm bar should be within the limits - there wasn't any signs of cracking although there was a bit of distortion of the cross section.

Mike
« Last Edit: March 11, 2019, 12:50:14 AM by mhc » Logged

It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.
Dominick
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« Reply #108 on: March 11, 2019, 10:17:18 AM »

Gosh, I wish I understood this stuff.  Huh??  Dominick
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« Reply #109 on: March 18, 2019, 04:20:13 AM »

Here's a photo of the three red pieces anodised for different times to produce 0.5, 0.7 & 1.0 mil (according to the instructions  Smiley) I can't test the thickness, but by using the same dying process each time the shades seem to show it is deeper with the longer runs.



The photo isn't as clear as I would have liked - it was taken with my phone and I've since tried polishing the pieces with autosol metal polish, I should have realised it is pretty aggressive by the way it polishes stainless.

Back to the surfmaster frame side track - I ran it and a couple more test strips at settings for a 1 mil anodise. The pieces 'racked' on titanium wire after degreasing and rinsed with distilled;



As it turned out, the frame spacer on the left either didn't have a good electrical connection to start with or it failed very early in the process - the uncertainty means I will need to strip any anodise that may have formed before it's re-done (I'm waiting on some phosphoric acid to strip existing anodise).
A clear finish on the frame bits, and the spacer at the bottom of the photo that didn't take;

 

While I'm waiting for the black anodising dye I've ordered, I thought I would try some 'gun metal' gray fabric dye or maybe it was gun smoke or whatever - it looked gray. The how to anodise guides generally say black is the most difficult colors to do - if my black pieces turn out as dark as the gray I'll be happy  Grin Grin



I'll start a new thread on anodising when I get it sorted but I think it will mostly be links to the sites I've followed.

Mike
« Last Edit: May 28, 2019, 11:54:31 PM by mhc » Logged

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Alto Mare
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« Reply #110 on: March 18, 2019, 04:59:48 AM »

This is crazy Mike, I haven't seen anyone on here take on anodizing... Powder coating yes, but not anodizing.
You are amazing.

Sal

Oh...be careful with that stuff, I did some research and it scared me a bit Smiley
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« Reply #111 on: April 03, 2019, 09:36:04 PM »

I got a deal on a 99 newellized 501. Unfortunately the spacer bar screws snapped off as th y were corroded in there. Decided to play with some aluminum and then looked into home anodizing. Probably not as tough as commercial grade stuff but turned out pretty good as I got my process down. First piece had bad connection. Second piece I changed my cathode but didnít process off the old layer from a previous attempt but worked better. 3rd and 4th are for jigmaster 500, they were from the same batch but different does and changed my cathode again, this time from lead to aluminum. Last piece realized my acid was weak and let it go longer in there and it finally after a week of Ďtuningí took the dye very well. Shows a little bit of defects but these are all hand sanded and as Iíve learned, anodizing doesnít hide anything, it makes it stand out more! Very fun little project


* BBD1F45E-63A0-41B3-94A3-AC22A4D5E172.jpeg (13.9 KB, 120x90 - viewed 230 times.)
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« Reply #112 on: April 04, 2019, 12:36:39 AM »

Good to see you having a go at anodizing Chuck, I'm finding a lot of care and attention to detail is needed to get consistent results - my last trial was a bit disappointing so I've put off re-anodizing the surfmaster frame until I work out what happened and run a few more trials. I'll start an anodizing thread soon so we can compare notes.

Mike

« Last Edit: May 28, 2019, 11:55:06 PM by mhc » Logged

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« Reply #113 on: May 19, 2019, 02:29:31 AM »

The black anodizing dye I had been waiting on to finish the U/H 100 didn't work as well as I had hoped - there are a few details of the trials I did with it on the thread on home anodizing, including the dark purple result with the underhead surfmaster frame. I had intended to strip the dark purple and redo it with a 2nd brand of black dye that seems to working a lot better but the dark purple started to grow on me, maybe after Dom said he liked it  Smiley - so I have left it as it is;





Take 4

With the surfmaster frame out of the way, I have made a start on an Al underhead XN 501 frame, using much the same methods used for the surfmaster frame;





That should be more than enough underhead reels for a while.  Grin

Mike
  
« Last Edit: May 22, 2019, 02:53:02 AM by mhc » Logged

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« Reply #114 on: May 29, 2019, 01:08:20 AM »

I'm using a set of accuplates with a bit of boat rash for this reel;



The plates will be screwed directly to the new stand like the surfmaster - so it was off to the lab to strip the anondize before drilling the stand holes;



and stripped;



I made a template similar to the one used for the surfmaster to drill the stand holes;



Using a 5mm carbide burr to recess the screw holes for the screw heads;



A quick test fit;



The stand needs a bit more removed from one end and deeper screw holes but the rest of the frame is ready to finish sanding.
I've been thinking about using woodworking router bits on aluminium for a while - this was a good time to try it, using a bearing guided 1/4" radius round over bit mounted in the drill press. I took very shallow cuts ~ 0.5 mm and had the side plates screwed to a piece of 10 mm steell plate to give it some weight and somewhere to hold away from the sharp bits for when the piece kicked - I didn't get any photos of the process, I was a bit pre-occupied. The finish was a little rough and finished a tad deep leaving a slight ridge that needed to be filed and sanded out.

The head plate after routing;



I mounted the tail plate in the drill press to make filing and sanding easier;





The head plate is being filed and sanded by hand. Both plates need a little more work before polishing them;



That's as far as I've progressed - more to come later.

Mike

« Last Edit: May 29, 2019, 01:13:53 AM by mhc » Logged

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« Reply #115 on: May 29, 2019, 03:06:33 AM »

On its way on being a masterpiece...


Sal
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« Reply #116 on: May 29, 2019, 04:03:07 AM »

Wow...!!
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« Reply #117 on: May 29, 2019, 04:05:46 AM »

   I really like that dark purple on the frame Mike. I bet with the plates done in silver it would look killer.
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« Reply #118 on: May 29, 2019, 08:52:38 AM »

Great idea with the router bit Mike.
-steve
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broadway
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« Reply #119 on: May 29, 2019, 01:59:47 PM »

Still liking the dark purple, Mike. Cool Not to mention the fact that no one will have that color, but many will have black.  A special color for a special reel.
Man, routing those edges looks like it would be a bear.  Again, very impressive work, Mike.
I'm subscribed!
Thanks for showing
Dom
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