How to clean Jacoxe Bronson 25c reel

[Acetylcholin99]

Hi!
After a long time I'm back to the Forum .
I have bought a Jacoxe Bronson 25 C reel and wanted to clean it. But before I try sth out I like to ask you for advice. How would you clean the chrome frame. Which is in good condition but not shinny any more... and what would be the best way to clean the gear wheel and the other parts ( like in the photos).
I'm tiny bit surprised that there is no grease or oil on the gear wheel and the other moving parts. Is this normal for the reel? Or should i lube it and put grease on?

Thx

Michael

[foakes]

Hi Michael —

Welcome home!

This is a great old historical reel with a Michigan heritage.  They made a lot of these, and in their day, they were not an inexpensive reel.

First, it is not chrome — it is nickel-silver with black Bakelite plates and likely a cork arbor.

I would start out with a 24 hour immersion of all metal parts in mineral spirits — to soften up any old gunk.

Then a rinse and a good brushing with lacquer thinner and a toothbrush.

Only this treatment on the metal parts — not the spool, plates, or crank.

After a good rinse and cleaning, I would likely see how well Nevr-Dull would finish it up patiently and to a good shine.  Lots of other options such as Simichrome, etc.

ND will work well on the plates also — after a good soak in Dawn dishwashing soap and hot water followed up with a toothbrush.

Lots of ways to clean and restore these to their glory days — just go slow and don't use too much chemical or power equipment at this point.  It is a simple, clever, and solidly built reel that will lend itself to be restored perfectly.

There are a couple of books on the ORCA site that explain these techniques in much greater detail, if you are interested.  But the above basic outline will get you 98% there.

Good luck, and show us some pics of the finished product!

Best,

Fred

[oc1]

Michael, it's J.A. Coxe.  Glad you didn't say Jaloxe    I think those have really attractive styling and are very well made.  I like the fact it has a spool axel instead of a spool shaft.  I'm not so fond of the free spool mechanism design.  As I recall, the main gear still rotates when in freespool and only the handle disengages.  Some guys swear by them and still fish with them all the time.

Here's some Joe Coxe history.  He was an interesting guy.
https://luresnreels.com/coxe.html
-steve

[Acetylcholin99]

  Sorry for that. I just read the name on the leather case 

Thank you very much for the explanations and advice!

I am amazed about the simplicity of the reel mechanism. And it work great. But as I disassembled the reel I figured out that there is no oil or grease on the gear wheels. And I asked my self it is normal? OR should I put grease in it?

[oc1]

I would worry about putting too much grease on the little clutch ears for fear they would get stuck.  Perhaps just oil on that part.

Grease won't help the levelwind either so if you're going to fish with it you may want to consider only oil and no grease throughout.
-steve

[Acetylcholin99]

Thank you very much Fred

I have some more questions

I would start out with a 24 hour immersion of all metal parts in mineral spirits — to soften up any old gunk.

Then a rinse and a good brushing with lacquer thinner and a toothbrush.
Rinse in hot water?would you let it dry or use a paper towel to dry the parts?

Only this treatment on the metal parts — not the spool, plates, or crank.
would you recommend a treatment of the cork spool?

After a good rinse and cleaning, Rinse in warm water? Dry it or let it dry? I would likely see how well Nevr-Dull would finish it up patiently and to a good shine.  Lots of other options such as Simichrome, etc.

ND will work well on the plates also — after a good soak in Dawn dishwashing soap and hot water followed up with a toothbrush.


There are a couple of books on the ORCA site that explain these techniques in much greater detail, if you are interested.  But the above basic outline will get you 98% there.Which books would you recommend?

Good luck, and show us some pics of the finished product!

Best,

Fred

[Acetylcholin99]

Thank you for this advise; I fished with the reel before I disasseble it and it worked fine without any grease and oil

I would worry about putting too much grease on the little clutch  ears ? which part is it? for fear they would get stuck.  Perhaps just oil on that part.

Grease won't help the levelwind either so if you're going to fish with it you may want to consider only oil and no grease throughout.
-steve

[foakes]

Typically I use an ultrasonic cleaner for most of my restores and servicing, since speed and effectiveness are important to me when a lot of reels are on the bench.

But that is an expense for another day, unless you already have a US cleaner.

* Just rinse and set on a paper towel — it will all be dry in 30 minutes

* Some parts like the rusted main gear, will need extra attention such as a Kroil bath and a wire wheel

* I just lightly sand the cork with 320 sandpaper

* This is the Bible for Reel Restorers — written by experts such as Dr. Elder, Dr. Larsen, and others.  This is an advanced course for those who want professional or museum quality results.

* Like Steve said, a good quality oil such as TSI321 or CorrosionX would do fine instead of grease

Best,

Fred

[Acetylcholin99]

Thank you!
Thankfully I have no rust on the reel.... Just for the future do you think that I could use a mix of ATF and Aceton instead of Kroil bath?

The book looks very interesting

[foakes]

Should work fine...

Best,

Fred

[oc1]

I've had reels that cast better when dry but it will shorten their life.  The brass bushings on the spool, gears, gear shaft and clutch are the only things that really have to be oiled when using it in freshwater.  Completely coat it with something for storage.

[Acetylcholin99]

I forgot one more thing. I have dissembled another reel and there was a lot of grease on different parts ( main gear, different other gear-wheels,  main shaft, . I removed the grease with a cloth but still there is more. What would be the best way to degrease it. A bath in mineral spirit? WD40?

Thx

[foakes]

Different folks on here use various methods — but something stronger than MS or WD40 needs to be used.

I use purple degreaser, and for tough caked on gunk — lacquer thinner.

Be careful since these are also harmful to you and others.  The purple will penetrate your skin, the LT will also, and is flammable besides.

Some use brake cleaners, carb cleaners, ATF fluids, etc..

Many of these could be harmful to certain metal alloys, as well as ruin plastic paint, and rubber.

Best,

Fred

[Acetylcholin99]

SO would you recommend first to use e.g lacquer thinner ( I have one already) use on a toothpick or brush and clean the teeth of the gear wheel and afterwards put it in mineral spirit bath?

[foakes]

I just drop any metal unpainted parts in a small vat of LT — generally a 30 minute bath is all that is needed.

Then maybe some scrubbing with a toothbrush — and another 30 minute LT bath — rinse with fresh water💧, dry, lube, and assemble.

I do use an Ultrasonic Cleaner — which speeds the processes, and seems to do a more thorough job in all of the tiny hidden crevices.

You can do a dozen variations of this cleaning process, depending on your style and the reel.

This is just how I approach most of these jobs.

For me, about the only cleaners I use regularly, are plain white vinegar, simple green, purple degreaser, lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, and Dawn dish soap.  There are literally thousands of others — but this is all I need 99% of the time.

For polishing and burnishing, I use "0000" steel wool, Nevr-Dull, Simichrome, a Dremel, and a small benchtop stationary variable speed wheel motor with fine wire on one side, and a burnishing wheel on the other.

For lubes, I use Yamaha Marine grease, Cal's in beige and purple, CorrosionX, TSI321, and WRL191S.

The cleaner and smoother all of a reel's parts are on places we can't see — translates into a pleasure to fish, and crazy longevity — if we start with a quality vintage reel that has "good bones".

Best,

Fred