Surfmaster question

[wfjord]

I was looking at an old Surfmaster w/plastic spool at a local consignment shop yesterday in fairly good shape with two or three noticeable issues. Memory is failing me now, but I believe it was the narrower 100, although could have been a 150. I first saw the reel earlier this year and passed on it. The seller now has it marked down to $40 and I'm thinking of making offer for a bit less.

The only external problems I could see with the reel were as follows:

--The front foot of the stand is twisted at a diagonal angle, maybe 30 to 40 degrees. I think it would be preferable if the original stand could be saved, especially since it's made for a clamp.
--The quick release take-apart knob to remove the side plate was stuck tight & wouldn't budge so I couldn't take a look inside. I'm thinking some corrosionx might loosen it, but I'm sure someone here knows the best way.

Other than the two issues above, there is some general verdigris and corrosion spots on the exposed plated parts, which I can deal with and eventually look for shinier replacement parts.
The handle cranked nicely w/ no gear noise, drag worked smoothly, spool spun nice and freely, and the black side plates (I assume bakelite) looked good.  I think the internals are probably in great shape, although the drag knob seemed to have a small range of adjustment.

I would appreciate any ideas on re-bending the stand and freeing up the take-apart knob, or any other thoughts some of you might have.  Thanks.

[Shark Hunter]

The surfmaster is a great reel.
My suggestion is to walk away from that one.
It would take a good amount of torque to twist a narrow stand.
That is probaly why you can't get the takedown screw to work, The frame is torqued as well.
It is alway a gamble buying a used reel, but with those tell tale signs. It might be fine, but then again, it might be a parts reel. I would look for a better one. JMO

[mo65]

   You can get a new stand from Mystic...and yes...corrosionX should free up that take-apart screw. If not, try a 15-30 minute vinegar soak, as you mentioned seeing some corrosion. Vinegar works very well at freeing corroded parts.

[foakes]

On a quick-take-apart reel such as a surfmaster, Jigmaster, or Squidder — the stand likely was not distorted by a big fish — it was jammed against something which with a combination of possible corrosion and frame twist — has caused the take-apart mechanism to jam tight.

It is just a game of percentages...

Plastic spool, bent stand, possible frame torque — unknown innards...

IMO, it is a $15 or $20 reel that you may luck out on — or you may spend another $40 not counting your time — trying to get it fishable.

Best,

Fred

[wfjord]

Thanks.  Yeah, it might be a risk. I still have an itch to take another look at it and maybe take along a few tools & oil to see if I can get that take-apart screw loose to check everything out better.  All appears perfectly square & aligned between the posts and rings and no gaps between the rings & plates, but I'm not looking to end up with a parts reel here and maybe should take the advice to back away from it.

[mo65]

The handle cranked nicely w/ no gear noise, drag worked smoothly, spool spun nice and freely

   Those are the clues that tell me not too much is wrong inside. Those take-apart sides are famous for being stuck. I've seen them stuck fast on otherwise mint reels. Still...40 bucks is a large gamble...I'd offer $20 and see if I could steal it!

[Maxed Out]

 Lay a thick cloth over the take apart screw and loosen with pliers.

It's not that uncommon for one end of tongue to be bent on a seat. Just remove the seat and lay on flat surface with towel over it and and tap with hammer. It's just plated brass and should bend back without much effort

 Ted

[wfjord]

The handle cranked nicely w/ no gear noise, drag worked smoothly, spool spun nice and freely

Those are the clues that tell me not too much is wrong inside. Those take-apart sides are famous for being stuck. I've seen them stuck fast on otherwise mint reels. Still...40 bucks is a large gamble...I'd offer $20 and see if I could steal it!

That's encouraging.  And $20 is a lot more painless than 40 if the seller will go for it.  I was originally thinking of offering 30.

Is that take-apart screw on the surfmasters the same part as the one on the squidders or would it be a hard to find part if it needed replacing?

Lay a thick cloth over the take apart screw and loosen with pliers.

It's not that uncommon for one end of tongue to be bent on a seat. Just remove the seat and lay on flat surface with towel over it and and tap with hammer. It's just plated brass and should bend back without much effort

  Ted

Good ideas. Tapping the metal, too---and that's right, it's just plated brass!

I noticed the star drag on that reel seemed to have a fairly narrow adjustment range. Is that normal on those reels?

[Gfish]

Sounds from your description like it might be an ok parts reel, for when you get a better one. I'd offer 'em $10 and go up to $15. Whatever you do have fun with it!

[foakes]

Is that take-apart screw on the surfmasters the same part as the one on the squidders or would it be a hard to find part if it needed replacing?

Yes, it is the same part — generally part #200 — my Penn bins show this part as TA-200.  There are (4)
pieces to the assembly.  The thumb screw, a spring, a bushing, and a nut.  The entire assembly is less than $6.

The more modern part numbers still use the 200 — but the number is 129-200, I think.

Best,

Fred

[wfjord]

Is that take-apart screw on the surfmasters the same part as the one on the squidders or would it be a hard to find part if it needed replacing?

Yes, it is the same part — generally part #200 — my Penn bins show this part as TA-200.  There are (4)
pieces to the assembly.  The thumb screw, a spring, a bushing, and a nut.  The entire assembly is less than $6.

The more modern part numbers still use the 200 — but the number is 129-200, I think.

Best,

Fred

Thanks...

[kmstorm64]

Is that take-apart screw on the surfmasters the same part as the one on the squidders or would it be a hard to find part if it needed replacing?

Yes, it is the same part — generally part #200 — my Penn bins show this part as TA-200.  There are (4)
pieces to the assembly.  The thumb screw, a spring, a bushing, and a nut.  The entire assembly is less than $6.

The more modern part numbers still use the 200 — but the number is 129-200, I think.

Best,

Fred

Fred sounds like you have a Surfmaster with the course thread, switch out the gear sleeve for a fine thread, or go stainless fine thread and never worry again.   I have done my Surfmasters that way and I prefer the wider range of adjustment over full off-some drag-full on.

Thanks...

[Alto Mare]

I was looking at an old Surfmaster w/plastic spool at a local consignment shop yesterday in fairly good shape with two or three noticeable issues. Memory is failing me now, but I believe it was the narrower 100, although could have been a 150. I first saw the reel earlier this year and passed on it. The seller now has it marked down to $40 and I'm thinking of making offer for a bit less.

The only external problems I could see with the reel were as follows:

--The front foot of the stand is twisted at a diagonal angle, maybe 30 to 40 degrees. I think it would be preferable if the original stand could be saved, especially since it's made for a clamp.
--The quick release take-apart knob to remove the side plate was stuck tight & wouldn't budge so I couldn't take a look inside. I'm thinking some corrosionx might loosen it, but I'm sure someone here knows the best way.

Other than the two issues above, there is some general verdigris and corrosion spots on the exposed plated parts, which I can deal with and eventually look for shinier replacement parts.
The handle cranked nicely w/ no gear noise, drag worked smoothly, spool spun nice and freely, and the black side plates (I assume bakelite) looked good.  I think the internals are probably in great shape, although the drag knob seemed to have a small range of adjustment.

I would appreciate any ideas on re-bending the stand and freeing up the take-apart knob, or any other thoughts some of you might have.  Thanks.

Some earlier Surfmaster have different rings that at times won't work with the newer plates. On the newer plates, the  pins are positioned a little forward, making the thumb screw hard to engage.
If you have others, it is just a matter of swapping the plates until you get one that fits.
I have drilled mine a little so it would rotate a little more.
I have a pic here somewhere, but can't find it.

Sal

[wfjord]

Some earlier Surfmaster have different rings that at times won't work with the newer plates. On the newer plates, the  pins are positioned a little forward, making the thumb screw hard to engage.
If you have others, it is just a matter of swapping the plates until you get one that fits.
I have drilled mine a little so it would rotate a little more.
I have a pic here somewhere, but can't find it.

Sal

I'd like to have seen the photo. Not sure, but I think I know what you mean---you either widened the opening in the ring for the take-apart pin or extended the slot in the ring (or both)?

Actually, in the reel I was looking at the take-apart screw would only move about a quarter turn to the left (after I put pliers to it), but beyond that it wouldn't budge further or pull out and I didn't want to force it any further. From what I've read it's suppose to make 3 counter-clockwise turns and pull out.

I'm hoping to get back over to that shop this week and try getting that side plate off to take a peek inside. I've never owned a Surfmaster, but it's been on my short list.

[wfjord]

Fred sounds like you have a Surfmaster with the course thread, switch out the gear sleeve for a fine thread, or go stainless fine thread and never worry again.   I have done my Surfmasters that way and I prefer the wider range of adjustment over full off-some drag-full on.

I guess that would also require getting a fine thread drag star?