Okuma Salina II quick and dirty tutorial

Started by plastic tiki, August 31, 2011, 12:15:35 AM

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plastic tiki

Hi Guys, my first attempt at this so here goes....

The salina saltwater in the 3000 size, it's now my go to kayak fishing spinning reel.
I haven't been able to find an online copy but i'll post if wanted.


We'll break the reel down to it's three main components and then go from there, focusing on the spool and body.

We'll start with the spool, it's a standard spinner three felt washer stack with a fourth underneath the spool. I won't bore you with the top as it's pretty standard.  I have yet to order the carbontex upgrades from Dawn but they will come in time. To remove the the top and bottom washers you need only remove the spring clips shown. You'll notice the bottom metal drag washer holds the spool clicker mehanism, give a good clean and grease.

Like the more high end spinners, the salina II spools have two bearings, one top and one bottom with a brass spacer between (not shown), the bottom bearing is held in by a click plate and spring clip. The top bearing is held in by the drag stack.

Now for the body, once you've removed the rotor you can see the clutch housing cover, remove this,

now you can remove the pinion gear and bearing, you'll notice the clutch roller is beneath the bearing. The anti reverse clutch is a tricky little beggar on this reel. It was in good condition and got a blast with brake cleaner and an oil (not shown). I've set the pinion bearing aside for a good blast of brake cleaner, compressed air and some good quality speed oil.

Lets get that body apart and have a good look.

First thing is like most Okuma spinners it uses elliptical gearing, which makes putting it back together just that little bit more fiddly. Okay remove that left side plate, clean give it a coat of marine grease and set aside, remove the bearing, this gets the A.T. treatment (by hand) and is reassembled.

Okay, now we remove the remaining washers and the screw for the spool shaft and pull it out. Now we remove the drive gear and give the other bearing the same treatment, after all ocean kayaking is a pretty tough environment for reels.

now remove the other internals in order and lay them out and give them a good clean. Next is to give the reel body a good clean and coat of marine grease before we start the re-assembly.

In go the parts in the reverse order they were removed, cleaned and greased of course, the most important part of re-assembly is the elliptical gearing, the teeth are marked  with red as well as the drive gear having a convenient hole in which to ensure the correct teeth are meshing, the opposite cog also has a red dot with which to assist the lining it all up correctly.


The rest should go back together nicely  ;D. When i have more time i'll put some better photos and the key number s for all the parts in.

cheers, Mark
















The perils of kayak fishing are great...... especially for the fish!

redsetta

Nice work Mark.
Those Salinas are nice reels and really popular with the soft plastics.
It's a good design, but I've found several elliptical gears basically dissolving with salt corrosion on earlier models.
Even had a new one sheer off the main gear from the sleeve while a customer played with it in a mate's shop.
Seems like they've improved the alloy quality in the new series - be interested to hear your appraisal.
Cheers, Justin
PS I'll measure up those Long Beach side-plates tonight if they'd still be of use.
Fortitudine vincimus - By endurance we conquer

wallacewt

hi plastic tiki, thats the knob i need for my bc.is it screw on or riveted.

plastic tiki

definitely a screw, theres a bearing in there too. :)
The perils of kayak fishing are great...... especially for the fish!

plastic tiki

Quote from: redsetta on August 31, 2011, 01:07:47 AM
Nice work Mark.
Those Salinas are nice reels and really popular with the soft plastics.
It's a good design, but I've found several elliptical gears basically dissolving with salt corrosion on earlier models.
Even had a new one sheer off the main gear from the sleeve while a customer played with it in a mate's shop.
Seems like they've improved the alloy quality in the new series - be interested to hear your appraisal.
Cheers, Justin
PS I'll measure up those Long Beach side-plates tonight if they'd still be of use.

Yep i noticed that with a coronado i did a little while ago, the alloy seemed porous and quite prone to corrosion. The gear alloy seems to be quite different with the salina II's, it feels smoother to touch and appears more robust.

The reels are great little performers, i've taken a number of large snapper to 8kg on them as well as skippies to 4kg, kingfish to 12kg and more kahawai than i can count. The only casualty has been a pinion bearing so far, a couple of swims and that bearing was toast.

The perils of kayak fishing are great...... especially for the fish!

redsetta

Excellent - cheers for the insight.
Quotesnapper to 8kg / kingfish to 12kg
Class. ;D
Fortitudine vincimus - By endurance we conquer

plastic tiki

Quote from: redsetta on August 31, 2011, 09:35:10 PM
Excellent - cheers for the insight.
Quotesnapper to 8kg / kingfish to 12kg
Class. ;D

cheers Justin, frustratingly i haven't quite cracked the magic 20lb for snapper yet.
The perils of kayak fishing are great...... especially for the fish!

bnz

#7
Mark, nicely done on the tutorial.

I wish they sold the Salina here in the States as it is almost identical to the Cedros except a little better.  :)

Quote from: plastic tiki on August 31, 2011, 12:15:35 AM
Like the more high end spinners, the salina II spools have two bearings, one top and one bottom with a brass spacer between (not shown), the bottom bearing is held in by a click plate and spring clip. The top bearing is held in by the drag stack.

This is where the Salina is better.  It has the spool bearings whereas the Cedros only has bushings.  The other thing is that the Salina has an aluminum rotor and the Cedros a graphite.



Quote from: plastic tiki on August 31, 2011, 12:15:35 AM
now remove the other internals in order and lay them out and give them a good clean.

I've found that Okuma uses interchangeable parts on their reels.  One thing that separates the VSystem from the Salinas (and Cedros) is that if you look in the second pic above there is a teflon (?) bushing that the elliptical gear rides on.  With the VSystem there is a bearing there.  If you want your Salina to spin a little smoother call Okuma parts and order the bearing that goes here on the VSystem and replace the teflon bushing with it. It is around a $5 part here in the States.




bnz

Quote from: redsetta on August 31, 2011, 01:07:47 AM
It's a good design, but I've found several elliptical gears basically dissolving with salt corrosion on earlier models.
Even had a new one sheer off the main gear from the sleeve while a customer played with it in a mate's shop.
Seems like they've improved the alloy quality in the new series - be interested to hear your appraisal.
Cheers, Justin

I've been using my VSystems for over five years now with no problems with the internal gears.  I too fish from my kayak so my reels often get dunked in saltwater and dragged through sand. They still remain strong and smooth with no signs of corrosion.  All I use for maintaining my reels is CorrosionX HD and TS-301 on the bearings (thanks to Alan).

I can say that when my fishing buddies have their stradics in the shop, my vsystems are still going strong. ;)

Alto Mare

Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

coralsea

#10
I used to have 3 (three) Okuma Salina reels.
5000 reel-just jumped off from my boat with the spinning (i didnt attached the gear well to the boat, big salmon stroke)
10000-just lost near garage
another 10000 reel-using now.
I must say that the 10000 series is just good.
And  i aslo have bought Okuma Coronado CD80 (not CD80a). Gear ratio 4.5:1
Will post picture later...
no pain-no gain

Chris Gatorfan

Wilson's Reel Upgrades.

coralsea

#12
Okuma Salina II 10000 Reel-3 years in service, including light sea-water trolling. So far all so good( excluding bad paiting cover)
The washers are still original.


no pain-no gain

scpecheur

Thanks for your tutoriel, its a good job!! I only want to come back on a point: when working one the  clutch, be very carrefull with the mini spring which is very, very thin!!!if it falls on the ground and jump, bye bye spring!!!!
I have a Salina 2 16000 since ten years..I took away for fishing In New Caledonia for GT'S, Wahoos Merous and Yellow fin, and in GuinĂ©a to red carps, barracudas and several sorts of Caranx, using it at Popping, trolling, and Jigging. One time , it has been swimming in salted water, and after, the bigger special ball bearing   (20x6x10) became to crisp..In France, we have generally very bad  SAV for reels and impossible to found in SAV parts this bearing!!!.I changed it with one of other Salina 65 i did not use!!what a pity!!! Now, this reel is a ggod second reel after my Stella's for my fishing trips.....I don't know if the high speed model (5,4) is so strong that the low speed? (4.9)If some one use a highseep, i would like to know his mind!!!

coralsea

Just look for the Salina 3  10000-16000.
GR 5,7:1.
I bought SA 3 10000 recently...
no pain-no gain