Typical Rigging for Makaira for the rail

Started by Gobi King, November 26, 2018, 06:15:31 PM

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Gobi King

During the past few months I used my time during my layovers in Atlanata to get a few Okuma Makairas  ;D

Can you guys tell me what is the typical rigging for these:

What qty/lb main braid + qty/lb topshot?

Makaira 8
Makaira 10
Makaira 15
Makaira 20
Makaira 30

Shibs - aka The Gobi King
Fichigan

MarkT

#1
My 16 is loaded with 100# Threadlock with some 130# fluoro for dropping FF to BFT.  My 20 is loaded with 100# Threadlock with a 20' 100# fluoro leader.  My 50 is loaded with 130# Threadlock with a 20' 130# fluoro leader.
When I was your age Pluto was a planet!

SoCalAngler

#2
It's hard to say since you bought reels in a range so close in performance, the 8-10-15 are and the 20-30 are too.

I don't know your application, fish targeted or if you like long toppers or what.

But I'll give it a shot.

8= 50 lb braid and a 40 lb topper
10= 60-65 braid and 50 lb topper
15= 65-80 lb braid and a 60 lb topper

Any of these reels could fish 1 line class lighter if you want.

20= 100 lb braid and a 80 lb topper
30= 130 lb braid and 100 lb topper.

Either of these could fish 1 line class higher if want you will just have to bump up the braid lb test on the spooling.

Gobi King

Quote from: MarkT on November 26, 2018, 06:22:42 PM
My 16 is loaded with 100# Threadlock with some 130# fluoro for dropping FF to BFT.  My 20 is loaded with 100# Threadlock with a 20' 100# fluoro leader.  My 50 is loaded with 130# Threadlock with a 20' 130# fluoro leader.

Mark,
What does FF stand for (sorry, I am still learning the acronyms), why do  you have a heavier topshot on the 16, and how much of the 130# do you have on the 16? I  ask as 100 lb mono is quite stiff and won't it spring out when not in tension?

What is the connection used from the hollow braid to the mono?

Thanks!
Shibs - aka The Gobi King
Fichigan

Gobi King

Quote from: SoCalAngler on November 27, 2018, 05:33:28 PM
It's hard to say since you bought reels in a range so close in performance, the 8-10-15 are and the 20-30 are too.

I don't know your application, fish targeted or if you like long toppers or what.

But I'll give it a shot.

8= 50 lb braid and a 40 lb topper
10= 60-65 braid and 50 lb topper
15= 65-80 lb braid and a 60 lb topper

Any of these reels could fish 1 line class lighter if you want.

20= 100 lb braid and a 80 lb topper
30= 130 lb braid and 100 lb topper.

Either of these could fish 1 line class higher if want you will just have to bump up the braid lb test on the spooling.

Application: 1 to 2 day boats (Destin, FL, East Coast or Cali) to PV trip in future, I need some direction on application too. 
1. Fishing bottom
2. Tossing irons
3. Tossing live fish

Length of topper - Is the topper there to provide some shock cushion and abrasion protection? What length of topper is recommended and why?

Also, is the Tuna or other species "line shy" i.e. does not have to have FC leader? or a straight clear mono will suffice?

Shibs - aka The Gobi King
Fichigan

MarkT

FF = Flat Fall.  The heavier leader on the 16 was because Blue Fin have teeth. It's 20' long.  I tied my leader to the spectra with a 25 turn Albright.
When I was your age Pluto was a planet!

SoCalAngler

#6
First I hear most of the head boats on the east coast don't like braid and many won't let you fish with it, so you may want to check that out before rigging.

I personally like long topshots, longer than I can cast, on reels I cast most often with. Others don't mind casting with braid, it is kind of up to the preference of the person.

There is nothing set in stone when it comes to rigging so it is hard to say one way is better than another like the amount of braid vs mono or going from braid to fluoro.

For the type of fishing I do on my lighter rigs say 60 lb topshots and less I like to have 300 yards of braid for backing. On the larger reels I like more braid when I hit 80 lbs toppers and above.

I use a co-polymer for my topshots and yes when the fish get picky fluoro is needed.

Gobi King

Danke!

I have a few albrights, never have attempted albright knot on a 130#  :o,

Mono as the wear line, this is how I set up my fresh water reels, couple hundred yards of 30# or 50# solid braid and then mono to fill up the rest of the reel. 17# for deep trolling to #30 mono for everything else. I use the mono to clip on my planer boards.

I am really poor at casting so I can safely wind on on 50 ft of mono topshot and call it a day  :D

Shibs - aka The Gobi King
Fichigan

SoCalAngler

Early in the braid/spectra days I tied a Bimini Twist in the braid to a reverse Albright in the mono or fluoro on heavy setups. This connection it very close 100% if tied right of the lines breaking strength rating but pretty bulky. Now a days I go with hollow braid on the heavy rigs and either use a loop to loop connection or a inline splice with the mono/fluoro inserted into the hollow braid.

On lighter stuff I use solid braid to the topshot. The connection I use is the RP or John Collins knot, there the same knot. I have been using this knot for over 5 years now. John Collins owns the Royal Polaris hence the name RP knot. I have used this knot up to 60 bl test without failure, but for me when I hit 50-60 lb test I use 7 wraps up and down and not just the five. Is it needed? They say no but it makes me feel better.

Tiddlerbasher

For braid I am now only use hollow core (16 strand). I don't like knots so I splice the topshots into the braid with a ca serve for a nice smooth join. I use Insta-Flex ca (it's more flexible than most). For freshwater fishing (mostly fly) I still use hollow core braid backing and blind slice a loop in the end - for a loop to loop connection with the fly line. If there is no loop in the fly line I splice the fly line into the hollow core with a ca splice. I've yet to have a failure with these methods - but each to his own ;)