Dam quick FZ 400FD

[Smokie]

Does anyone know how to re-install the spring mechanism for the bail arm?

[foakes]

Photos?

Best,

Fred

[Smokie]

Bear with me Fred. I have photos but for the life of me I can't get them to attach. Smokie.

[foakes]

The nylon (I think...) part that goes into the long coil spring needs to be compressed down into the nesting cavity — then there is a matching round hole on the inside of the bail support that the round nub on the nylon piece fits into.

The other shiny double-reverse "L" piece is the trip mechanism.  The longer leg goes into and through the opening below to catch on the frame in order to trip the bail back into the closed position. 

The shorter leg goes up into the bail support, in the longer curved slot — thus enabling the bail support to rotate, 90 degrees and lock in the open position for casting.

It may take a little practice — and intuitive feel — but as soon as you get the two pieces mounted under the bail support — and the bail support nested properly — just install the bail holder keeper screw — and test for function.

It should work.

This is a typical bail trip assembly shared by many modern Asian graphite spinners, nowadays.

Works fine until graphite/plastic parts gets worn from sand, crud, and lack of lubrication.

Keeping these two mechanisms slightly greased, clean, and the bail support lightly oiled — will result in better longevity — and smoother performance.

Let us know how you do — and if you need further help — there are lots of spinner experts on our site.

Thanks for the photos!

Best,

Fred

[Smokie]

Thanks Fred,

Exactly as I imagined it so I'm wondering what it is that I'm missing. I can get the bail support to fit snugly;  I can get it to rotate smoothly - but not both at the same time.  Similarly, I can't get the spring action and the L-shaped trip lever to work together.

So, I've removed the trip lever and ......

What I have then is a reel which requires the bail arm to be closed manually. There is no great sense of the spring pulling it closed unless I unscrew the bail support  screw a little.  If I do that the bail support won't fit snuggly. It is as if the spring is bowing upwards forcing the bail support upwards.

Nevertheless, I thank you for your reply.

Smokie.

[philaroman]

I'm guessing: late 90's Daiwa body w/ Shimano bail mechanism, sold as D.A.M. long departed from Germany...  patents be damned

are you calling the bail arm, "bail support"?

is your specific difficulty in attaching the bail arm to the rotor, so that the spring loads & everything pops into its right place?

[Smokie]

Thanks for the reply Philaroman.

I'm calling this part the bail support.  No problem attaching it to the rotor and no problem getting the spring mechanism in what I guess is the right place. The L-shaped trip lever doesn't want to go above or under the spring thingo  so something's not right.

[foakes]

The easier way to do this, Smokie —

The "L" shaped "kick-lever" & the coil spring with the nylon insert both go on the right side of the larger main screw hole.  They do not overlap each other.

Drop the kick lever into the channel on the far right side —

Then remove the lower part of the coil spring from where it rests against the bottom —

Install the bail arm in the proper orientation with the coil spring nylon piece just to the left and under the kick lever — there is no spring pressure yet to interfere with assembly — the round hole in the bail arm goes over the nylon plunger — the small "L" end on the kick lever goes right above and to the right — this enables the bail to travel and lock open about 100 degrees.

THEN, compress the coil spring upwards under spring pressure until you can squeeze the lower part of the spring back into the compartment —

As you are holding the spring in place, screw on the lower cover — and it should work.

Best,

Fred

[Smokie]

Thanks, Fred.

[Gobi King]

Thanks Fred for the pics!
That is one part that give me angst to open and service,

[Midway Tommy]

Well instructed, Fred! Nice of you to display the tricks.

Now for my personal assessment, and no offense to anyone that owns one of those, or similar, reels. What a stupid bail spring/trip mechanism! I find it hard to believe that someone gets paid to come up with ideas and designs like that. What ever happened to the simple old scissor-coil bail spring systems. They've worked fine for decades and are much less complicated and much more foul/fool proof! 

[foakes]

Agree 100%, Tommy —

But there is one thing that we as collectors, fishermen, and reel mechanics overlook 95% of the time when evaluating the merits of one bail return over another, vs. those from the old school days —

These bail return systems actually work surprisingly well —

In my experience, these systems outlast the graphite/plastic/Tupperware parts that 70% of the reel is constructed of...

In another words — the bail return system will outlast the graphite and plastic pieces.

I can prove this assertion by going out to the storage container that has perhaps 600 or 700 of these worn out plastic reels — just tossed in about 15 large tubs.  

The life expectancy of these Asian manufactured and designed spinners is about 1/10th that of a fine old Penn, ABU, Cardinal, DAM Quick, Mitchell, or Shakes reel.  

They just end up in my bone pile as potential donor reels to fix someone's reel that parts have been unavailable for — for about 3 years after the reel was new.

Just my opinions...

Best,

Fred