Tranx 500, problem with a bearing race stuck on sideplete housing

[steelfish]

I have had bearings exploding in parts by the corrosion before, but Im really having problems to take this race from a bearing that got stuck, its the infamous mini bearing below the shaft known for having problems like this one, surely the reel was never serviced and got corroded badly, when I took the bearing out it came in pieces and almost desintegrated but the steel race its like welded to the aluminium body of the reel.

so, far I havent tryed much techniques like hot, ice, etc, they (yep, 3 shimano tranx with the same problem, yes, three reels with the bearing race stuck) are currently with lots of corrosion X.

I tried for a bit with the dremel using a molding stone but no luck so far and dont want to force anything cuz it would be an expensive mistake
I also tried hiting between the bearing race and the reel "housing" to bend it but no avai.

judge by the pictures how it looks when the owner of an expensive reel "DONT" believe on preventive service.

[steelfish]

can a moderator move the thread to a problem section of shimano reel (casting) please

[exp2000]

When I am confronted by something like this, my course of last resort is the freezer.

First I use a Dremel to scour out the gross debris then maybe a little acid to remove the fine encrustation.

I try to get it as clean as I possibly can.

Then I fill the recess with Corrosion X and pop it in the Freezer overnight in a zip lock bag.

Hasn't failed me yet but if still no luck, a hot air dryer would be my next tactic.

What you are trying to achieve is to fracture the chemical bond between the dissimilar metals.

Of course, a bearing puller would always make life easy.
~

[alantani]

remove anything that can melt and then torch it......   

[Cor]

Horrible to see this reel in such a condition.   Looks to me it got dunked in the sea and just tossed in a corner somewhere afterwards.

Good luck, some careful perseverance and it will eventually come out.

Allans suggestion and penetrating oil worked on the last one like that I had.

[steelfish]

remove anything that can melt and then torch it......   

dang.. I really wanted to avoid that, but that might be the better solution, although I will try the freezer tip before

I dont have a torch, do you think a heat gun on the highest setting would work?

if I get a torch, didnt the aluminum will melt before the steel race with the heat?

[Cor]

It may work, but a torch will focus the heat more directly on to the old bearing race.   It will heat quickly and precisely where needed and not melt the plastic idle gear if you forget to remove it

[oc1]

I'd go back to the dremel with a 1/8" straight carbide or diamond bit and flat head.  The bearing race is really hardened so it's not easy.  Once you grind out a slot/section the race can contract with a temperature change and should come out easily.
-steve

[mike1010]

I've had good luck heating things to about 250 degrees F in a toaster oven, and then hitting the stuck part directly with a cold blast from an inverted compressed air can.

Mike

[mo65]

I also tried hitting between the bearing race and the reel "housing" to bend it but no avail.

   I'd try this again after soaking it in some corrosion remover(CorrosionX or vinegar). It might bend easier by cutting a slot in the race like Steve mentioned.

[steelfish]

I'd go back to the dremel with a 1/8" straight carbide or diamond bit and flat head.  The bearing race is really hardened so it's not easy.  Once you grind out a slot/section the race can contract with a temperature change and should come out easily.
-steve

hey Steve, I own you a tecate or pasifico Beer amigo.

one diamond bit and a flat heat did the trick, I slowly grinded and reduced the thickness of the race and every few pases took measured with the caliper so to avoid over-grinding the hole, when I saw the thickness of the race was really reduced took the flat head and on the 2nd try a complete ring/race came out, I just had to clean the residues of the corrosion.

[oc1]

Good deal Alex.  No offense, but I don't like those pale lagers.  You owe me a negra modelo.  I'll call when I get to the airport.
-steve

[steelfish]

Good deal Alex.  No offense, but I don't like those pale lagers.  You owe me a negra modelo.  I'll call when I get to the airport.
-steve

Done deal buddy.

Now for a 24-pack of negra modelo beer, help me on this.

One of the reel was easy peacy and its now fixed  and smooth, but the second reel the handle gets harder to turn the more drag I set with the star drag

If I release some drag back you can turn the handle easily but as soon as you increase the drag the handle become harder to turn until hoy cannot move it at all ( on 5-7# drag)

[oc1]

Man, it's getting tougher. 

My wild guess is that the drag washers are compressed and thin so the coned disk springs (BNT1455 and BNT1613) are putting pressure on the outer race of the AR roller clutch bearing BNT4447 or putting pressure on the side plate instead of putting pressure on the roller clutch bearing inner tube BNT4448.  If that's the case, then thicker drag washers will raise the clutch bearing tube and might fix it.

Try turning the two coned disk springs the other direction too.

https://www.mikesreelrepair.com/shimano-tranx-trx500hg-schematic/
-steve

[chockpish]

I've had a similar problem with a Daiwa casting reel! The roller clutch inner tube #4448 is notched at the bottom, it locks in the top of the pressure plate #4449! Sometimes when you put the side cover back on, it can slip out of the pressure plate notch, and as you tighten the drag it puts way to much pressure on the drag stack, and it makes it hard to turn as you tighten the drag! This may be the cause of problem you are having with the reel your working on! Hope this helps?

Mike!