alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial fixing swim baits with a soldering iron
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
December 06, 2019, 02:57:26 AM *
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Author Topic: fixing swim baits with a soldering iron  (Read 1044 times)
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alantani
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« on: June 27, 2019, 07:29:06 AM »

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send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!
foakes
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« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2019, 07:35:00 AM »

Excellent tip and video, Alan!

Thanks!

Best,

Fred
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Dominick
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« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2019, 08:47:05 AM »

Amazing.  Fixing something without using duct tape.  Wow!   Roll Eyes  Dominick
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 Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day drinking beer.
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« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2019, 10:33:57 AM »

In case you want to save your soldering iron for soldering,  the tip of an old table knife or any thin piece of steel can be heated over a flame.   Stainless works well, as it holds heat for a long time.  Plastisol  starts to gel around 150F,  and fully liquifies somewhere around 325,  and starts smoking  somewhere around 360, varying a bit by formula.   It  hardens back to the original state at room temp.  Some folks even remelt and recast old soft plastics.

The blade method works well for inserting into  a deep tear, so more of the damage is repaired.  A blade also works nicer for smoothing the surface.   In a pinch while out fishing,  you can heat a old knife with a lighter.  As mentioned above, it does not need to get very hot,  just up to gel temp.   

Be careful when handling melted areas.  Melted plastisol makes horrific napalm style burns.  And if smoke is coming off, it is too hot and the plastic is releasing toxic fumes (hydrogen chloride among others).  I would expect that a soldering iron without a temp control is running way too hot, so as Alan mentioned, you need to stay away from any fumes. 

-J
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oc1
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« Reply #4 on: June 27, 2019, 12:08:59 PM »

Good one Alan.  Thank you.
-steve
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Bill B (Tarfu)
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« Reply #5 on: June 27, 2019, 02:18:35 PM »

Ive tried this with a soldering iron with varying degrees of success, I like the knife idea and will try that next....Bill
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« Reply #6 on: June 27, 2019, 05:07:18 PM »

A twist on the same idea: set up the iron so it stands vertically (maybe held in a small vise); wrap a piece of metal wire, maybe 1/8" dia. or so, around the tip of the iron before you plug it in, leaving a length of the wire standing vertically; you then have two hands free to manipulate the worm/swim tail, curly tail, etc. against the hot wire.

Frank
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bhale1
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« Reply #7 on: June 27, 2019, 07:16:36 PM »

.......newbie question....does Super Glue work??? Thought i saw a guy using it on a party boat one time.
Brett
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jurelometer
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« Reply #8 on: June 28, 2019, 12:14:37 AM »

.......newbie question....does Super Glue work??? Thought i saw a guy using it on a party boat one time.
Brett
Sort of.   Melting works better.   Some folks also use CA glue (super glue) to stick the swimbait to the jig head, so it doesn't get pulled back by a bite or by trolling.
« Last Edit: June 28, 2019, 06:31:37 AM by jurelometer » Logged
smnaguwa
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« Reply #9 on: June 28, 2019, 04:15:06 AM »

I use a line cutter. Easy to clean.


* Photo on 6-28-19 at 5.11 AM.jpg (96.86 KB, 1080x720 - viewed 33 times.)
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Gfish
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« Reply #10 on: June 28, 2019, 09:24:52 AM »

Good one! I been foregoin plastics in favor of fur n' fearthers cause a the damage. Look out 'cudas n' snappers, here I come!
Here's my latest time-consuming, labor-intensive repair.


* image.jpeg (1025.7 KB, 2592x1936 - viewed 36 times.)
« Last Edit: June 28, 2019, 10:22:58 AM by Gfish » Logged

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MarkT
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« Reply #11 on: June 28, 2019, 11:10:22 AM »

Super glue to repair plastics and get them to stay on the lead head.
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