alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Tutorial and Detailed Look at The 302
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
September 15, 2019, 04:15:49 AM *
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Author Topic: Tutorial and Detailed Look at The 302  (Read 474 times)
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Gfish
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« Reply #15 on: September 03, 2019, 08:20:17 PM »

Rotor/Bail system continued.

Clean all moving parts with wire brush and penetrating oil, and clean black aluminium rotor with p. oil, rag and Q-tip.
Marine grease mixed with oil for bail arm, trip lever piviot area and bail release pin. Oil on the line roller. Plain marine grease painted on all inner rotor surfaces.

Reassembly: pretty much the reverse of assembly, starting with the line roller lock nut assembly. Next, slide the pin in from the outside and through the pin spring. Place the trip lever back in with the extended part fitting into the notch in the pin, line it up and screw in. Note that in the picture, the pin spring is behind where the trip lever contacts the pin.
Fun part now: install bail spring into the rotor. CLEAN GREASE OFFA FINGERS. To install bail arm, first use your finger inside the rotor to hold the pin in, so it doesn't push on the bail arm. Push on a certain part of the bail trip lever mechanism to do this, you'll find it...Put bail arm onto spring, center it. Are you still holding the pin in!?, now twist the bail arm slowly, keeping it centered and with some pressure, twist it up and around that square shaped rotor projection( bail bumper rests against this when it's back together and bail is closed), you got it? Are the spring ends still in both holes? Quick!, put the bail screw in, torque it! Hurry-up!

Only took me 3 tries!


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« Last Edit: September 05, 2019, 10:35:21 AM by Gfish » Logged

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« Reply #16 on: September 03, 2019, 08:49:36 PM »

The bail system on this reel is pretty flimsy compared to all the other 302 systems, IMO. The wire is thin, and the line roller only has 3 parts. The locknut for the roller is small and attaches to a pretty thin threaded bail end-piece. There is no real support for  for the bail wire on the opposite side, it just fits loosely in a hole in the rotor with a cover screw to keep it from popping out.
And no, the roller on my 56yr. old reel isn't gonna roll, even with the nut locked in a pretty loose position. Best to snug it up so the bail doesn't wiggle around when actuated, could tweak something.
That's probably why Mitchell came up with the PUM. A bail-less manual pick-up. Looks tough in the schematic's picture.  These are offered in the '63 schematic as an extra part to order. Probably check out da bay and see about gettin one.

Next, the gear box, AR and ball bearing.
« Last Edit: September 05, 2019, 10:36:51 AM by Gfish » Logged

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« Reply #17 on: September 04, 2019, 07:03:58 PM »

The Gear Box, Anti-Reverse System and The Ball Bearing

1st) Unscrew the non-gear side plate which has a red plastic Lube Access Port (for the main & pinion gears). This side-plate has shorter, flat-top screws and the opposite side-plate uses tapered-head screws probably to better align the gears. 2nd) remove the skinny screw at bottom of the shaft("reel axel") which attaches to the "axel guide". This unit seems to provide strength and stability to the shaft, by kinda stabilizing it against side to side movement at the bottom. 3rd) push the 2-"C" clips around the oscillation unit("pivot slide") off and pull the shaft out.

In the second picture you may be able to see, one C-clip is out and one is 1/2 way off.


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« Last Edit: September 06, 2019, 10:55:26 AM by Gfish » Logged

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« Reply #18 on: September 04, 2019, 07:20:13 PM »

Continued...

4th) Remove the gear side-plate and pull the main gear out.
5th) If you haven't already done it, remove the chrome rotor bushing and the copper shim from the top of the ball bearing. 6th) Pull the key from the pinion shaft and hold-on to it! Push the pinion down into the gear box and out, then reinstall the key with a dab of grease. 7th) unscrew the 2 set screws on either side of the gear box "neck" and push the ball bearing up and out.


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« Last Edit: September 05, 2019, 10:39:34 AM by Gfish » Logged

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« Reply #19 on: September 04, 2019, 07:40:14 PM »

Continued...

The planamatic gear system consists of a main("drive") gear-left side in picture, ring gear("planamatic cam ring")far right, and an oscillating gear("planamatic gear") middle. Note in the 2nd picture I push/pulled out what I'll call the "lubricant absorbtion pad" from the main gear shaft, it's sitting on the reel seat. This is common in the older Mitchell reels. I press cleaned it between paper towels. Looks kinda delicate---hey, it's almost my age!
At this point I'm gonna return the screws, clips and a few other small items to where they go, after clean and lube, so I don't lose 'em and won't forget where they go.

These gears shine like steel, but feel like they're aluminium in weight. Probably some kinda alloy. Tolerances at the various friction points seem to nice and tight.


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« Last Edit: September 06, 2019, 10:59:14 AM by Gfish » Logged

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« Reply #20 on: September 04, 2019, 07:49:30 PM »

Continued...

The anti-reverse assembly.
8th) remove the "E"-clip from the from on top of the "antireverse cam spring"(black color). Carefully, with your finger on the silver dog spring, pull the AR cam spring and then the dog and dog spring.
This looks like a nice sturdy system. In the first picture, it's in the off position.
Cleaned and lubed all of the above parts, as well as these AR parts as described before. Exceptions would be the lube pad pulled out of the main gear shaft and then I dumped some clean oil down there. And the ball bearing, which got soaked in inox mx3, lubed with oil and covered in marine grease. Most friction parts got a mix of oil and marine grease.

Reassembly of gear box next.


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« Last Edit: September 06, 2019, 11:04:16 AM by Gfish » Logged

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« Reply #21 on: September 04, 2019, 10:09:16 PM »

Reassembly:
1st) the AR system. Very simple: the reverse of disassembly.


2nd) the shaft, with the axel guide, pivot slide and pinion must be done in the right sequence. The pinion goes in, in only one direction, from the inside of the gear box, up. First, install the pivot slide on the shaft WITHOUT the C-clips. Install the pinion gear also on the shaft above the pivot slide.
Remember, the pivot slide and shaft have corresponding groves and they must face the planamatic gear on the proper side, for the planamatic gear's knob, to fit into the pivot slide/shaft grove.

Second, attach the bottom of the shaft to the shaft guide, but don't screw it in yet. Next, push the pinion up through the top of the gear box and put the ball bearing in on the pinion shaft and install the set screws. Are the groves on the pivot slide & shaft going to line up with the planamatic gear(i.e. face the gear side-plate)? Install the shaft guide screw, now. Push the C-clips onto the shaft groves, on the top and the bottom of pivot slide.

3rd) The 3 planamatic gears are straight forward with one exception: the planamatic cam ring(middle gear) does not move. There are 2 knobs on the ring that must be inserted into corresponding holes inside the gear box. Easy to see. However, there's also a knob on the planamatic gear(innermost gear) that 1) has to be lined up with one of the knobs on the cam ring gear and 2) at the same time, fit into the pivot slide.
Screw in the handle assembly.
Place the gear side-plate on the correct side of the gear box, without the plate screws. Hold it close to centered and get the ring gear knobs into the corresponding holes. Then manipulate the planamatic gear to 1) have the knob fit into the grove of the pivot slide and 2) be lined up, side to side, with one of the ring gear knobs.
Test it by holding the gear side-plate and gear box centered and steady and turn the handle. May take several adjustments to get a proper & consistent oscillation of the shaft. Screw the plate on when it works right.

4th) you've already installed the ball bearing and the 2 set screws. Now put the copper shim down against the top of the ball bearing and the chrome bushing on top of the shim. Make sure the tiny key is still in the pinion shaft and adjusted longest side top to bottom.

Time to button her up. Non-gear side-plate, rotor, spindle, spool and drag stack. 1st) install the rotor by spinning it around until the keyway slot fits around the key. Screw on the 14mm nut. 2nd) screw the spindle onto the axel. 3rd) add the spool onto spindle and put drag washers in, proper order is important for best performance. Drag washer order is on page 1, post #5. Screw down drag knob making sure the spacer washers with the 2 flat sides on the inside are down properly on the spindle.
Test, and screw on the side plate. Done!

 


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« Last Edit: September 11, 2019, 07:44:50 PM by Gfish » Logged

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« Reply #22 on: September 05, 2019, 12:11:51 AM »

Oh boy! A "new to me" reel. Kinda like a new relationship, and the honeymoon phase is a goin' on!
Gonna get some good line on her and take her for a nice long test drive.
« Last Edit: September 07, 2019, 09:41:04 AM by Gfish » Logged

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« Reply #23 on: September 05, 2019, 04:22:24 AM »

I'm bettin' she shows you a good time !
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« Reply #24 on: September 05, 2019, 05:49:45 AM »

Excellent tutorial, Gregg!

Like many of us on here, having worked on plenty of these over the years — at least (2) things are worth noting, in my opinion.

1) These 302/303’s are strong salt water reels.  Good, tough frames — metal spools, good construction and
    materials, attractive in appearance.

2) They also seem like they have too many parts for a HD Salt-Water reel — overly complicated and prone
    to salt/sand damage and corrosion.

I have 2 or 3 large crates of these — and it seems like if they were ever used — they need major restorations to bring them back to where we would fish them confidently.

You have done a fantastic job on yours.  It will catch a lot of fish!

Best,

Fred
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« Reply #25 on: September 05, 2019, 08:51:57 AM »

Great job, Greg!  You are right, the bail is puny on these reels. The smaller heavy freshwater/light saltwater 306 has a more robust bail wire.

The 302 engineering is nothing like the Mitchell 300. Similar to the smaller 308 and 306, but more complicated.  One weak point is the plastic anti-reverse lever.  Mine arrived with a stripped a/r lever, but l found the parts cheap on ebay.  Also Fred Oakes sent me some missing drag components at n/c. 

These reels can probably handle anything in my neck-of-the-woods, big cats, stripers, carp, drum, buffalo, paddlefish, and lake sturgeon which have been stocked in the past 20 years or so.
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« Reply #26 on: September 05, 2019, 09:23:40 AM »

I cut my teeth working on these reels. Its all we had back in the day when I fished with my father on the Pensacola Beach Pier. Hundreds of King and Spanish Mackerel. They are still used today.

You can fit 5 Penn 6-155 HT-100 drag washers if you remove the spool clicker. The spool clicker puts a lot of tension on the line. Not so good for free lining a tiny bait.
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« Reply #27 on: September 05, 2019, 10:18:19 AM »

Great walk through, Greg! Thanks! I've got a tote with about 20 various Mitchell models to service, if I live long enough  Cheesy, one of these winter months. These types of tutorials will sure come in handy when that time comes.  Wink
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« Reply #28 on: September 05, 2019, 11:59:56 AM »

A note about this odd color metal inside the housing.  A while back in the Mitchell Reel Museum forum I read that this is either a coating or plating to prevent salt water damage.  Can't remember exactly what the plating is made from.


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« Reply #29 on: September 12, 2019, 11:04:49 PM »

Special Note: George6308, whom posted replies #1 & #9 on page 1, passed away a few days latter. Sounds like before he left us though, he got another reel(his old 302) out, serviced and up to par. Maybe his kids or grandkids will use it someday. In honor of his memory, I'm gonna unofficially name mine George(hope that's ok buddy!) and will remember him whenever I use it.
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