alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Issue with jigmaster I just assembled
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: Issue with jigmaster I just assembled  (Read 1487 times)
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SevenYearsDown
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« on: November 15, 2019, 08:49:41 AM »

So I was assembling a 501 last night (accuplates, tiburon frame, and all the SS mods that can be had here) and I encountered a couple of problems.

1. For the life of me, I cannot get the yoke/pinion/jack to line up correctly. I have my old 501 and 500 as reference, and when you move the free spool lever in and out, the pinion goes up and down smoothly. But with the one I assembled last night, the pinion keeps tilting towards the jack once it moves. So now the issue is when the reel is in free spool, and when i turn the handle the spool still moves and there is a grinding/clacking sound (im guessing the pinion is hitting something). But when the reel is not in free spool, it works perfectly and drags are smooth. Anything I might have overlooked? I have gone thru the guides here and videos on Youtube multiple times. I will post some pictures later to better illustrate, I am not the best at explaining.

2. What screws do the accuframes use? Can I just get them from home depot? I am missing 4 screws on the left side plate. It was supplied with the correct amount, but these 4 do not screw in correctly.
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Swami805
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« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2019, 10:33:08 AM »

Sometimes it takes some tweaking to get all the custom parts to play well together. Might try filing the leading edge of the yoke a little around the pinion gear area. Not much, just to round that edge a little. Iíve done that on a few when I had engagement problems.
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RowdyW
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« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2019, 10:37:53 AM »

Do you have it fully assembled? How can you see the pinion tilting? The pinion will stay alighned when fully assembled with the spool. The spool shaft keeps the pinion alighned. I doubt that the screws can be purchased at HD. Best to order them from Mystic. The plate screws are 5-40 thread. If the screws are not screwing into the holes correctly try running a 5-40 tap in them to clean them up. The clacking and crunching might be because of a worn eccentric jack or the tabs might have to be bent up a tick for the pinion gear to clear the spool lug when disengageing.                Rudy
« Last Edit: November 15, 2019, 10:47:32 AM by RowdyW » Logged
JRD
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« Reply #3 on: November 15, 2019, 02:30:14 PM »

Rudy is correct.  Sounds like the jack is holding the yoke / pinion assembly too close to the drive lugs on the spool shaft.  If your using a new stainless yoke and jack then it's likely the issue.  SLIGHTLY bend the tables to create more down pressure on the yoke when disengaged - you want to be compressing the springs more to hold the pinion away from the spool lugs.  Your also seeing a little more tilt in the yoke because the jack is not sliding over the yoke as smoothly as brass on brass.  Smooth (bevel)  the sharp edge of the yoke where the jack plate tables ride on it.

As for the screws your not likely to find them unless you have a parts supplier close by.  I'm guessing you tried a different screw and the frame threads are fine?  If the threads are fine then replacement screws are simple.  Let me know and I will send them to you at NC.
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PacRat
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« Reply #4 on: November 16, 2019, 08:11:26 PM »

1) Before you do anything...have you tried adjusting your spool? I suggest trying to adjust the spool closer to the tail-plate to give the pinion gear a little more clearance to fully disengage when the pinion is jacked out. If you can't move the spool fare enough, pull the bearing on the tail-plate side and check for a shim below the bearing and remove it if there's one there.
2) If your jack is stainless, be very careful if you try to bend the tabs! I had one break and I did not try to bend it very much. Some stainless jacks are very hard and do not bend easily.
-Mike
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #5 on: November 16, 2019, 08:28:04 PM »

Good advice Mike, the spool should always be perfectly center .
It seams easy to do, but at times it take some time to get it perfect.
Also, as Mike has mentioned, at times you will need a shim on the right side bearing, most of the kits are very close in tolerance, so this doesnít happen often with the 2 piece frame and the spool from the same seller, but it could happen.
Iíve noticed the pinion hole is a hair tight by the notch, I'm not sure when this happens, maybe when the ring gets pressed in, but it might be that the very edge of the hole needs a little cleaning.
I will usually place the pinion in a wood clamps, being careful not to tighten too much, just enough tension to stop it from turning and I will use a craftsmen awl punch to round the tip of the pinion right below the natch. This doesnít happen on all, just on a few.
The awl punch is tapered and smooth, it really does the job.
It only takes 4-5 turns with a little pressure.
If you own a press, take that ring off while using the punch, it makes it a little easier, but if you donít have it, just leave the ring in.

You should notice a big difference with freespool.
If it all fails for you, I wouldnít mind taking A look at it, your cost would be shipping costs only.

Good luck!

Sal

« Last Edit: November 17, 2019, 12:04:11 AM by Alto Mare » Logged

Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.
joel8080
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« Reply #6 on: November 17, 2019, 05:42:47 AM »

I am in Puerto Rico and I will be home late Wednesday, send me a pm with your address and I will send you a set of cap screws all but the bottom 2 I do not have those.

Joel8080
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SevenYearsDown
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« Reply #7 on: November 17, 2019, 08:55:33 AM »

Quick update, I worked on it Saturday morning, I don't know what I did to fix it but, I disassembled everything, and reassembled it SLOWLY. It worked. I didn't have to bend the tabs at all. What I did do differently is use the 4 bridge screws from my donor 501 rather than the one that came with the accuplates. The pinion goes in and out straight now and it doesn't get dragged upward, no more grinding and dragging sounds when cranking on free spool, and the drags are so smooth even when buttoned down (I am using the 5 stack and a delrin under gear washer).  Fixed it in time for my PM half day, and caught a few rockfish with it.

As for the screws, I was assembling it at night the first time, and in the morning when I was taking a good look, they were all dirty and had a bit of salt/corrosion. Cleaned it up and played abit with which screws go where, and they all fit now. Thank you for all the advice and the generous offers. I can see myself putting together one of these again in a few weeks, it's a lot of fun.
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RowdyW
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« Reply #8 on: November 17, 2019, 09:18:10 AM »

I sounds like the bridge screws were a little to long  & sticking out of the backside of the bridge & rubbing on the end of the spool. The screws should sit flush or one thread protruding when tightened down completely.
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #9 on: November 17, 2019, 09:28:22 AM »

Iím glad it worked out for you.
I was not insinuating that you couldnít get it done, I was just trying to help out if you needed me.
Most of the design on this kit has something to do with my opinions as well, I volunteer some of my time to help out the best as I can with Alanís projects.
Iíve taken many of these down for testing some well over 50 x.
You are correct on the screws, the jack rides next to the screws and I have seen some cap screws being a little wider. The reel will still work but the eccentric gets a little stiffer.
Tom from Cortez conversion offers screws that are perfect.
Alan from ProChallenger also has screws that are perfect, those are slotted,  but all four cone with partial threads, I really like that option.
Good job on getting it done,

Sal
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Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.
Alto Mare
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« Reply #10 on: November 17, 2019, 09:36:33 AM »

I sounds like the bridge screws were a little to long  & sticking out of the backside of the bridge & rubbing on the end of the spool. The screws should sit flush or one thread protruding when tightened down completely.
The two screws closer to the center wouldnít  make contact with the spool, the two upper screws might, but I havenít had that happening in none of my builds yet.
I have heard of some having issues with those, as you just mentioned Rudy.
 I guess Iíve been lucky.
I need to double check the new screws length, canít just go with how much they stock out above the bridge plate, that might be the case of just the right side plate being milled  a little lower than stock.

Sal
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Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.
RowdyW
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« Reply #11 on: November 17, 2019, 09:50:49 AM »

I've run into a couple. The screws had about 6-8 threads sticking out past the bridge. They were probably the wrong screws for those particular plates or bridges. Also have heard of the bridge rubbing when changing to another bridge or spool. You just have to file or grind the bevel on the radused side of the bridge a little deeper which I guess you have run into. Lots of things change when swapping original or custom parts around. You just have to work and adjust around them.
« Last Edit: November 17, 2019, 10:01:13 AM by RowdyW » Logged
SevenYearsDown
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« Reply #12 on: November 17, 2019, 04:16:33 PM »

I really appreciate the offer Sal, I have been reading a lot on these kits and how they were developed, seeing what you guys come up with and do with them is very inspiring. Here is a quick pic, pardon the flex tape on the eccentric lever, the o ring disintegrated. If the tuna bites are still on next week this and my pro gear 545 will be put to the test.


* E3E07A6A-9871-4207-B792-C164C81006CC.jpeg (260.98 KB, 1280x960 - viewed 64 times.)
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #13 on: November 17, 2019, 07:31:53 PM »

I've run into a couple. The screws had about 6-8 threads sticking out past the bridge. They were probably the wrong screws for those particular plates or bridges. Also have heard of the bridge rubbing when changing to another bridge or spool. You just have to file or grind the bevel on the radused side of the bridge a little deeper which I guess you have run into. Lots of things change when swapping original or custom parts around. You just have to work and adjust around them.
The only problem I had was with cap screws from McMasters Carr, the head is too wide fir the hole on the plate.
It did go in , but the tolerance was way too tight, making it impossible to move the bridge plate a little if I had to.
I chucked them up on my lathe and removed the ridges on the head, all was good from there.

I really appreciate the offer Sal, I have been reading a lot on these kits and how they were developed, seeing what you guys come up with and do with them is very inspiring. Here is a quick pic, pardon the flex tape on the eccentric lever, the o ring disintegrated. If the tuna bites are still on next week this and my pro gear 545 will be put to the test.

Iím not sure where youíre located, if you did need that 545 serviced , I could do it in a day or two at no charge but parts and shipping.
The problem is if you are in Ca. You wonít get it before ten days, that might be too late.
Itís up to you on how you want to go about it.

Iím hoping someone close to you can get to it much faster do you could use it on your trip.

Good luck,

Sal

Sorry, I think Iím talking about someone else reel, the 541, not your 545.
I donít think your 545 needs anything.
Scratch that message above.
« Last Edit: November 17, 2019, 07:37:56 PM by Alto Mare » Logged

Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.
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