140/145/146 squidder

Started by alantani, December 07, 2008, 04:58:51 PM

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Sluggo


John in MT

Good thread - thank you.

Ordered a carbontex washer kit and a stainless gear sleeve from smoothdrag and upgraded my old 146L squidder this morning.

More for the learning than anything else as I rarely use this reel.

Noviceman

Hi....Working on making one good squidder 140 out of 2 old ones...anyway I ordered new ss bearings from Dawn this morning and have a question..In the tutorial it looks like when you replaced the bearings the bearing covers were not replaced???    also in the schematic from Scotts the tension spring shows going on top of the drag stack before the spacing spool??    Thought it usually goes between the star and the handle?   Anyway newbie here trying to educate myself with your help of course...Many thanks for info

Jim from Wisconsin

Decker

Quote from: Noviceman on October 17, 2017, 03:54:30 PM
In the tutorial it looks like when you replaced the bearings the bearing covers were not replaced???   

Jim, I read the same tutorials, and have seen Alan recommend leaving the bearings opened.  This is my understanding:

  • They are much easier to service that way.  Maybe they don't have to be pulled to be lubed if they are open?
  • If open, they can't trap water, since the seals are not truly water-tight.

Noviceman

thanks...I understand taking the shields off the bearings and leaving them open to oil etc but was wondering about the extra piece thats over the bearing that appears to be there to hold the bearing in?    also still wondering about the location of the tension washer that shows onthe drag stack?   

scrinch

The tension washer goes under the spacing spool. The star is in direct contact with the spacing spool. There's not much room outside the plate for a tension washer.

Noviceman

thanks but still wondering about that extra washer tire looking piece that was over the original bearings and if it should be left out on replacing the bearings...hope Im explainingvthis correctly..  Saw a post by Keith on a different reel that if the washer was over the drag stack it was done by someone redoing the reel and not original...Just trying to clarify...thanks again

84-Bravo

Hi, I'm new here and this is my first post.  I've read this thread and the jigmaster rebuild thread.  I just finished rebuilding my 36 year old squidder and am about to do the same to the jigmaster s of the same vintage.

@Noviceman... I would reinstall the retention washer as that's what holds the bearings against the bearing seat and in place.  This is the washer with the "tire tread" edge I think you are talking about.

Now, I pulled out the reel spool tension side bearing, cleaned it as best as I could, it's shot, noisy as heck.  Can anyone tell me where I can get the bearings for a 36 year old squidder 140 and a jigmaster S ?   I like the idea of stainless open bearings, (easy to service).

Thanks in advance, and thank-you Alan Tani for hosting a wonderful resource!


Bryan Young

#98
Quote from: Noviceman on October 18, 2017, 10:08:56 PM
thanks but still wondering about that extra washer tire looking piece that was over the original bearings and if it should be left out on replacing the bearings...hope Im explainingvthis correctly..  Saw a post by Keith on a different reel that if the washer was over the drag stack it was done by someone redoing the reel and not original...Just trying to clarify...thanks again

That dohickey that secures the bearing in the bearing cup is not necessary, but I always replace mine.  I believe Alan leaves it out so water can drain.  I put mine in so the lubricant can say in the cup.  



Quote from: 84-Bravo on October 19, 2017, 12:21:10 PM
Hi, I'm new here and this is my first post.  I've read this thread and the jigmaster rebuild thread.  I just finished rebuilding my 36 year old squidder and am about to do the same to the jigmaster s of the same vintage.

@Noviceman... I would reinstall the retention washer as that's what holds the bearings against the bearing seat and in place.  This is the washer with the "tire tread" edge I think you are talking about.

Now, I pulled out the reel spool tension side bearing, cleaned it as best as I could, it's shot, noisy as heck.  Can anyone tell me where I can get the bearings for a 36 year old squidder 140 and a jigmaster S ?   I like the idea of stainless open bearings, (easy to service).

Thanks in advance, and thank-you Alan Tani for hosting a wonderful resource!

Bearings for the squidder may be obtain at MysticParts.com, SmoothDrag.com, or BocaBearings.com.  I believe the bearing size is 0.125 x 0.5 x 0.156 inches.

Bearings for the Jigmaster 500S may be obtained at MysticParts.com.  I don't believe these bearings are ball bearings, but more like bushings.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

84-Bravo


Sluggo

Hey guys
I'm working on a 140 squider that eats line on the handle side. Looks like the spool needs to move toward the handle is there a way to do this? shimming the left side would just move the bearing tensioner put right ?

Bryan Young

This is not as easy. You may be as simple as cleaning the bearing cup on the right side to filing down the spool slightly the left side bearing is already adjustable.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

foakes

#102
First thing to do is what Bryan sez --

Remove the headplate bearing -- clean it out with lacquer thinner or lighter fluid.

When reinstalling it into the head side -- grease the outside of the bearing so it slips and seats properly in the plate cup -- not too hard, or the cup will break through however.

On the tailplate side -- clean that bearing likewise -- then grease the threads where it screws into the sideplate -- with the sideplate loose, and the bearing tension spring out, thread the bearing all of the way down.  If necessary, use a pair of jaw tape covered pliers.  This insures that when you are reassembling the reel -- there will be enough side play tension to move the spool towards the head plate.

Since this is a take-apart reel, over the years various spools may have been changed or switched out.

If all else fails, and there is still a gap on the head side -- the last resort would be filing the spool shaft a couple of mils.  

But I would disassemble, clean, reset properly, and check everything else before doing that.

You also might try a spare spool if you have one available

Let us know how you get along.

Best,

Fred
The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

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Sluggo

Thanks will do... this is a awesome site with a amazing amount of knowledge happy to be here

Sluggo

I ended up filing a little off the shaft and it moved just enough.  thanks