Shakespeare 2068 Sport Wonder

[handi2]

That one is really cool. Thanks for posting.

I know I'm repeating myself but I had every Mitchell Reel NIB. I had almost all of the saltwater Shakespeare Sea Wonder reels in maroon. Many with the factory manual bail. Shakespeare built some fine big reels.

Keith

[Midway Tommy]

Well done, Paul! I seldom use a schematic, other than maybe to double check the drag configuration. I generally just take them apart, take some photos along the way and put them back together the way they came apart. I probably never would have even noticed the different bail configuration.

[Gfish]

Paul, in your 4th picture down with the line roller parts, one looks like it could be a roller-bearing?

[Paul Roberts]

Dunno where those "extra" roller parts came from. Apparently rollers can work without them. Maybe an upgrade that came late in the '65 production year? Should show up in the '66 schematic although I'm not sure there is one available.

I'll dig up schematics occasionally. Usually when something might be missing, appears to be extra, or a shim or washer I've lost track of. Or when I need the correct order of parts in some apparatus. Drag washers are a good example. The Pflueger "mechanical thumber" is another. Seems previous owners can get confused and guess at the order of such things, leaving me digging up a schematic.

[Paul Roberts]

Paul, in your 4th picture down with the line roller parts, one looks like it could be a roller-bearing?

Yes, that's what it appears to be. Just don't see one in Tom's post or in the schematics.

[Gfish]

Ok, thanks. Given the narrow profile of a roller-bearing(i.d. & o.d.) relative to a ball bearing, it seems like it would be a much better bearing fit for reducing friction on the roller. Never thought about that kinda set-up.

[Brewcrafter]

Beautiful reel!  Question for anyone that knows (I have my own thoughts but don't want to speculate) why was this admittedly great series of reels so short lived? - john

[PacRat]

"In 1962 Shakespeare began manufacture of the charcoal gray 2068 Sport Wonder for introduction into the 1963 market place. Later in 1963 Shakespeare also introduced the maroon 2062, which eventually became the 2068's successor."-Tommy

"Although I'd venture that the 2062, that soon replaced it, is its equal, and a bit easier to service."-Paul

When it comes to the bottom line, the 2062 does everything the 2068 will do at a cheaper manufacturing cost without sacrificing quality. I really appreciate my 2068 but its abilities are a tie with the 2062. The 2068 does give me more pride and joy though. I doubt the fish notice difference though.

[Paul Roberts]

So I checked the 1967 Shakespeare schematics publication (no '66 available) and the 2068 is still in it. But, the same three model years are shown: EG,EF,EE ('64,'65,'66). The only thing for '66 is a little inset showing parts for a RH retrieve version.

The roller mechanism does not show the bushing my reel has. It does however show the tiny shim washer (X47W: X47 denotes roller parts). Tom, I think the tiny shim you have in pic 13 may go on your roller rather than on the oscillation gear stud. No washer is depicted for the oscillation gear. Might want to check the fit at both places.

[foakes]

Beautiful reel!  Question for anyone that knows (I have my own thoughts but don't want to speculate) why was this admittedly great series of reels so short lived? - john

Shakespeare was a great American company known for quality lures and baits, baitcasting reels, larger salt water Conventionals, and other quality tackle products.  They had been in business for generations.

They engineered and produced very high quality products at an affordable price.

On top of that, they provided replacement parts, and supported the tackle repair shops with availability of replacement parts as well as ongoing support in other areas to promote their products that were designed for "life".

They grudgingly moved into the spinning reel market because anglers demanded spinning reels.

Spinning reels were easier to cast, use, more modern, and could cover 5 times the water area as a baitcaster —- with no birds nest issues.

US Companies like Langley, Johnson, Thommen, and others were selling fair amounts of spinning reels —- but never in enough volume to keep growing, paying fair wages, and make a decent profit.  The European makers from France, Italy, Sweden, and Germany were also producing high quality spinning reels.

Shakespeare only knew how to make reels one way —- the highest quality they were able to produce.  Good design, effective, strong, quality materials.

At about the same time (early 60's) —- Japan reel makers were copying American and European designs —- then producing spinning reels under dozens  of brands and model names.  These reels had catchy names, were attractive, colorful, and well marketed due to their lower price.

The materials were of inferior quality —- but the reels were cheap in price.  They were not designing reels so much to catch fish —- as to catch anglers.  Fish don't write checks.

Shakespeare realized that they needed to produce reels that were a little cheaper and swifter to manufacture.  Less parts, etc.

While this was a great theory —- it wasn't enough to convince enough anglers to pay more for a Shakespeare —- as compared to less expensive brands.  After changing their lineups of Shakespeare reels a few times —- they eventually merged with other foreign Asian companies —- like so many others.

Just boiled down to math —

Penn still owned the conventional reel market —- and would not introduce Spinfishers for a few more years yet.

These little 2068's are great reels.

One caveat —- if you find one that is stiff operating —- do not force the handle and operation until the reel is disassembled, all of the old dried up grease removed, and fully restored and serviced with modern synthetic lubes.

The gears are so strong —- that when the reel is "forced" what will break due to the dried grease —- is the soft oscillation block.  And these parts are not available except with a donor reel.  I have some of these reels in various sizes —- and they are excellent when restored like Paul and Tommy have accomplished very professionally.

Best, Fred

[foakes]

Just to be clear, I am not an expert like many others in the world on reel history, engineering, and manufacturing.

Mostly just a reel mechanic.

But I have and continue to do a lot of reading about things I am interested in.

If anyone ever gets a chance to pick up one or two of the books on Spinning Tackle by George Thommen (an expert and pioneer manufacturer of quality spinning reels) —- get it.

It is a fascinating and evenly presented volume of information about many different brands and their history.

Here is one published in 1954 —- Complete Guide to Spinning Tackle.

Best, Fred

[Midway Tommy]

So I checked the 1967 Shakespeare schematics publication (no '66 available) and the 2068 is still in it. But, the same three model years are shown: EG,EF,EE ('64,'65,'66). The only thing for '66 is a little inset showing parts for a RH retrieve version.

The roller mechanism does not show the bushing my reel has. It does however show the tiny shim washer (X47W: X47 denotes roller parts). Tom, I think the tiny shim you have in pic 13 may go on your roller rather than on the oscillation gear stud. No washer is depicted for the oscillation gear. Might want to check the fit at both places.

Paul,
I pulled my 2068 out of the cabinet and checked it out. It works and spins as it should, although there is a little front to back play in the main shaft & spool that makes a little noise now and then but I doubt it would be a big deal while under tension and in action. I'd say pretty normal for a sixty year old real.   

I took the bail arm & roller apart and, interestingly enough, if there was a shim washer installed the line guide wouldn't roll. The enlarged portion of the bail is just the right length so that the tungsten line guide fits perfectly and rolls when the acorn nut is tightened all the way down. If you notice, your schematic notes "(as required)". Given my reel is a "G" I'm figuring there may have a little variation in the length of their line rollers at various times that may have required a spacer. Secondly, I'm not sure that my reel had ever been completely taken apart, cleaned and serviced, and that shim washer was under the bushing on the oscillation gear stuck in the old grease, as seen in the original second photo. Plus, it has the exact same ID & OD as the bushing. I'm pretty confident that's where it was originally installed. Everything seems to work as it should, smoothly.

Also, you can barely see it in my original photos but there is a bronze bushing inside the tungsten line roller and it fits perfectly, no play, on the enlarged portion of the bail. I took a couple of better pics today while I had it apart.

[Paul Roberts]

Thanks for the clarifications, Tom. Couldn't tell in your photo the diameter of that shim. The shim for my roller was too large a diameter for the oscillation stud. But I'll double check to see that my roller is rolling freely. I did see the "as needed" comment too and wondered the same. This might suggest that there were quality control checks during the manufacturing process.

Interesting that you were able to find the bushing inside the carbide roller! Apparently they're supposed to be integral. Mine, separated from the roller, has indents all the way around suggesting it is not supposed to move free from the carbide roller.

It's all academic at this point, as both reels are functioning properly, but thanks for checking.

My reel has some minor front to back play in the shaft too. It's rotational movement that caused the oscillation block to clack. Took me a bit to get just the right sized piece of felt in the right spot to take up that slack and not just gum up the works.

Fred, I found a copy of the Thommen book you mentioned. It's on its way here. Thanks for the heads up. Should be an interesting read.

[foakes]

Thanks for the clarifications, Tom. Couldn't tell in your photo the diameter of that shim. The shim for my roller was too large a diameter for the oscillation stud. But I'll double check to see that my roller is rolling freely. I did see the "as needed" comment too and wondered the same. This might suggest that there were quality control checks during the manufacturing process.

Interesting that you were able to find the bushing inside the carbide roller! Apparently they're supposed to be integral. Mine, separated from the roller, has indents all the way around suggesting it is not supposed to move free from the carbide roller.

It's all academic at this point, as both reels are functioning properly, but thanks for checking.

My reel has some minor front to back play in the shaft too. It's rotational movement that caused the oscillation block to clack. Took me a bit to get just the right sized piece of felt in the right spot to take up that slack and not just gum up the works.

Fred, I found a copy of the Thommen book you mentioned. It's on its way here. Thanks for the heads up. Should be an interesting read.

Fred, I found a copy of the Thommen book you mentioned. It's on its way here. Thanks for the heads up. Should be an interesting read.

Great, Paul!

My (2) Thommen books —- '49 & '54 —- are quickly accessible —- and set right next to my books by Ben Wright and Michael Cacioppo.  These are the Bibles to me.

Best, Fred

[Midway Tommy]

Interesting that you were able to find the bushing inside the carbide roller! Apparently they're supposed to be integral. Mine, separated from the roller, has indents all the way around suggesting it is not supposed to move free from the carbide roller.

I'm pretty sure they were pressed in. I had an exact size punch and tapped it a couple of times and it didn't budge a bit. I sounded solid as a rock.