alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Daiwa 2600C, a look inside
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
February 28, 2020, 01:39:53 PM *
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Author Topic: Daiwa 2600C, a look inside  (Read 314 times)
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festus
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« on: December 18, 2019, 01:05:16 PM »

Chalk up one more Daiwa silver that's been serviced.  I went a little farther on this one, took the complete anti-reverse assembly apart, cleaned it, then put it back together so it deserves a tutorial. This will probably be my last Daiwa silver for a while.  There are 3 more in this line that are larger reels, the 4000, 7000, and 9000, but this one is big enough for me.  This one felt pretty good, drag, anti-reverse, and bail worked just fine and it reeled very smoothly.





Removing the body cover.




Removing the oscillating slider screw.



Spool and axle are removed. A look at the underside of the spool and the click tongue.  This plastic click tongue deviates from the schematic which shows a spring, claw, and screw.


Drive gear removed.



Oscillating slider and oscillating gear are removed.




Removing the 14mm rotor nut and rotor.



A look at the anti-reverse assembly.




Removing the ratchet and click gear.



The ball bearing retaining washer and 3 screws need to be removed to get to the pinion gear and ball bearing.




The bearing and pinion were really stuck in there, so I reattached the rotor and rotor nut to give a better grip to remove them.



The anti-reverse components needed a good cleaning, so I took it apart.



Removing the anti-reverse lever and cam.




This reel was functioning ok before I took it apart.  It appeared someone in the past may have applied WD40 and added some oil recently.  It cleaned up pretty well.




The lubricated ball bearing and pinion gear are back in place, along with the reassembled anti-reverse assembly.



Reattaching the rotor.



Reinserting the plastic bushing.



Oscillating gear and oscillating slider back in place.


Lubricated drive gear back in place along with spacer washer.



Reinserting and fastening down the axle.



Body cover back in place.



Reattaching the handle.


Fastening down the cleaned drag assembly and attaching the spool.



Rebuilding this reel certainly improved it, feels good as new.  This one and the 1000C seemed to be the smoothest of the silvers I've worked on.  Definitely not a shelf queen, it has its share of scuffs and bruises.  The reel arrived with some grey braid.  I placed the reel on a gold 9' Eagle Claw rod and cast it a couple of times in the front yard and examined the line.  Line has no flaws, so I'll leave it be.  Appears to be larger diameter than 30 lb braid.  Overkill, certainly.  It threw a 2 oz bank sinker pretty well. Got too many trees and obstructions to make a long cast over 50 yards.  It weighs 18 oz. and has line capacity of 200 yds of 15 lb mono, 150 yds of 17 lb mono, and 125 yds of 20 lb mono.








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festus
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« Reply #1 on: December 18, 2019, 01:08:22 PM »

Schematic from the Daiwa official site.


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happyhooker
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« Reply #2 on: December 18, 2019, 06:38:02 PM »

Thanks for the post.  Always enjoy your "explorations".

Frank
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mo65
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« Reply #3 on: December 19, 2019, 06:07:26 AM »

   She looks like a good catfishin' reel Chester...nice work on the clean up. Have you tried circle hooks on braid for Channel cats? It seems to be the way to go for spinning reels...hook up ratio greatly improves.
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festus
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« Reply #4 on: December 19, 2019, 08:56:37 AM »

   She looks like a good catfishin' reel Chester...nice work on the clean up. Have you tried circle hooks on braid for Channel cats? It seems to be the way to go for spinning reels...hook up ratio greatly improves.
Yes I've used circle hooks and braid on my big Okuma ABF bait feeders for catfish in areas where there aren't too many rocks and boulders.  I like fishing tailraces in the swift water below dams.  They're full of rip rap so usually I'll go with 17 lb to 30 lb Big Game mono. 

Some of my favorite fishing holes are at culverts with water running underneath a road with water on both sides.  Usually the current changes direction several times a day.  I'll usually throw out a couple larger rigs for catfish then fish around the current with lighter rigs for panfish and bass. 


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mo65
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« Reply #5 on: December 19, 2019, 09:44:08 AM »

Yes I've used circle hooks and braid on my big Okuma ABF bait feeders for catfish in areas where there aren't too many rocks and boulders.  I like fishing tailraces in the swift water below dams.  They're full of rip rap so usually I'll go with 17 lb to 30 lb Big Game mono. 

   I hear ya...I use a 20-30 pound mono leader to the hook when fishing braid.

Some of my favorite fishing holes are at culverts with water running underneath a road with water on both sides.  Usually the current changes direction several times a day.  I'll usually throw out a couple larger rigs for catfish then fish around the current with lighter rigs for panfish and bass. 

   When we catfished Sandusky Bay on Lake Erie the captain stayed in the current flow from a culvert under the railroad. It was an ever so slight bit more movement than the rest of the water around it...but that's all it takes. Cool

   
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Silvers
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« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2020, 11:34:28 AM »

Just a side note...

the 2600C was the latest model of the original silver series if you except the 2 smallest 500/700C.
It was a new build for the outgoing 2500C.

The 2600C is one of only very few which you can easily upgrade to an silent A/R.
All what you need for them are the parts from a GS2/3 or from a SS2000/3000.

The bigger reels like the 4000/7000/9000 are different built, the A/R ratchet is here screwed into the rotor....not possible to break this under normal fishing situations.
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