UCSD fishing team needs help with Okuma spinning reels

[fishucsd]

I've gotten word about this awesome reel repair forum at a recent San Diego Angler's meeting from our good friend Steve Carson that directed us here. We're basically trying to figure out how we can fix our spin reels that have been sanded out.

We started the first ever fishing club at UCSD just this summer and we've been fishing together ever since! However, due to our lack of experience, we surf fished at Black's beach for corbinas about a month ago and now 2 out of 4 of our Okuma Rox combos from Walmart are frozen from all the sand damage. Hopefully with the know how of most of the community here we can save some money fixing our club reels instead of getting new ones! 

I figured since I couldn't find any reel breakdowns on youtube about these cheaper reels, I would try to post my current status of the repair and hopefully some advice can be told. I'm hoping to use some of my dad's wd-40 to blast out the sand once I get the internals open. I've spent my whole night trying to get the internals open...photos are attached .

1. I've unscrewed all easily accessible screws and the handle
2. I am now stuck on loosening the final bolt to completely open up the internals
3. I've tried using my dad's bolt opener but I am afraid its teeth are damaging the bolt and its not quite loosening smoothly

any advice on loosening up the reel bolt and cleaning the sand out before winter break ends would be MUCH APPRECIATED!!! thank you! - Richard

[Crow]

That nut is *probably* left-hand thread...so, instead of "righty-tighty, lefty-loosy"....it goes the other way. Once it's off, the "rotor" will pull off the shaft.

[RowdyW]

First get rid of the pliers & put them back in the tool box. Then get the proper wrenches & sockets for the reel work. You probably have to remove the nut to remove the yoke next. From the looks of it you are already chewing up the soft brass nut. Use proper tools for proper work. Hack tools are for hack work. And welcome to the forum.        Rudy

[Donnyboat]

Richard welcome from sunny Western Australia, nice to have you & your crew with us, before you start asking questions, try to do some reading, in the forum, such as " tools a lubricant, & various topics in that area, As Arlyn, ( Crow ) said if it dont turn very easy try the other way, also if you open the gear area on the reel there should be a crew or clip, near the bottom of the shaft, release it then the center shaft should come out, then you can get a socket, to fit properly, make sure you use good fitting crew drivers & other tools.
    after fishing try to clean your reels out, & spray them with a good lube such as Inox MX 4 to 6, or maybe corrosion X oil, lube the bail arm as well, WD 40 is a good cleaner, but a very poor lube, good luck & leave some fish in the water for us, cheers Don.

[philaroman]

see that tapped hole, next to the rotor nut -- was there a short, little screw in it !?!?
(prevents normal rotor operation from unscrewing the nut -- otherwise, nut must be reverse-threaded)

in a perfect world, reverse-threaded rotor nuts are notched for immediate recognition

                                OR

tapped hole(s) for retainer screw/cover indicate normal rotor nut


both those "rules" are frequently ignored in budget reels for cost-cutting,
but THEY wouldn't actually install & waste the screw if it's not needed

[Gfish]

Welcome to the Forum!
I would soak the nut overnight with a penatrating solution("Liquid Wrench" or something similar). As it's soaking, like Donnyboat said, take off the gear cover and remove either screw(s) or pin(s) in the shaft that hold an ossilation unit. The shaft should then slip out. A socket wrench(probably metric size socket)might then remove the nut. If it don't turn, try heat via a hair dryer.

Saltwater is a thread/screw/nut, ball bearing and bushing killer. Do you guys rinse your reels directly after fishing? Hint. Sand is really bad. If you get it apart, a thin coating of grease on everything is invaluable(traps sand and protects against corrosion).
This one is interesting, keep us updated.
My Son went to UCSD. Seems like 1/2 the college ready population of Fremont, Ca. goes there.

[Bill B]

Richard welcome to the forum.   As Rudy has stated, first acquire some basic tools, open ended wrenches, an assortment of screw drivers, dental pick, and others as described in the Tools and Lubricants section.  You will need some grease, oil and degreaser.  A digital camera is also highly recommended.  Take lots of pictures as you take the reels apart, keeping one unopened for reference.  Once you get them apart, Dawn brand dish washing soap will help get rid of the grease and sand.  There is at least one bearing that will need to be opened and thoroughly cleaned out and re greased.  grease for this bearing is good as it wont affect free spool. (There is a tutorial on how to open it.)  During reassembly make sure all internal parts get a LIGHT! coat of grease to stop salt water corrosion.  The drag washers just need to be wiped off, not sure if they are carbon fiber or not, but if they are CF then Cal's Drag Grease can be applied. 

You are jumping into the deep end with these reels, I would highly suggest you take some time and read some of the tutorials in the Spinning Reels section to get familiar with these reels, you may find one that is similar to yours.  Take your time and take lots of pictures during disassembly to help you during reassembly.

If you get stuck just call out and anyone here will help you through this.  Dont expect the first couple of reels to be  quick, and the first will probably take a couple hours.  Not sure if we have any members in the San Diego area to lend a hand, but maybe they will chime in.

Bill

[festus]

Hi Richard, glad you dropped in, you're in the right place for answers.

A schematic for that particular reel can't be found to my knowledge on internet searches..  I've only serviced three Okumas and remember you have to get that nut removed and the rotor completely off for access to at least one more screw enabling you to remove the cover plate to access the gears. 

[fishucsd]

That nut is *probably* left-hand thread...so, instead of "righty-tighty, lefty-loosy"....it goes the other way. Once it's off, the "rotor" will pull off the shaft.

I think I went righty-tighty too many of a time last night!!   thank you Crow, am definitely trying to get the rotor off..

[fishucsd]

First get rid of the pliers & put them back in the tool box. Then get the proper wrenches & sockets for the reel work. You probably have to remove the nut to remove the yoke next. From the looks of it you are already chewing up the soft brass nut. Use proper tools for proper work. Hack tools are for hack work. And welcome to the forum.        Rudy

Hi Rudy!! i've definitely been using the wrong tools and i realized it when the nut started warping LOL. i'll take a look at the tools and lubricant page yourself and Donnyboat have recommended me so i can find better tools 

[fishucsd]

Richard welcome from sunny Western Australia, nice to have you & your crew with us, before you start asking questions, try to do some reading, in the forum, such as " tools a lubricant, & various topics in that area, As Arlyn, ( Crow ) said if it dont turn very easy try the other way, also if you open the gear area on the reel there should be a crew or clip, near the bottom of the shaft, release it then the center shaft should come out, then you can get a socket, to fit properly, make sure you use good fitting crew drivers & other tools.
    after fishing try to clean your reels out, & spray them with a good lube such as Inox MX 4 to 6, or maybe corrosion X oil, lube the bail arm as well, WD 40 is a good cleaner, but a very poor lube, good luck & leave some fish in the water for us, cheers Don.

Hi Donnyboat from sunny Western Australia!! My crew is very happy we can potentially stash a few extra bucks for our next twilight trip if i can get these reels fixed haha. Yes, i'll be looking at the tools and lubricant page as soon as i'm done replying to all the helpful comments. i didn't know how responsive this forum was LOL.

The nut was definitely loosening going left but it was going very inch by inch so i was scared something was going wrong. i'm pretty sure its because i used my dad's car pliers so i'll definitely look for the right socket to open it up.

Donnyboat, can you please clarify what gear area you're referring to? i'm kinda confused

So no WD-40? and thank you i'll definitely research the reel lube you've suggested (Inox MX4-6 and corrosionX) never dealt with lubing until now, its gon be good

Tightlines to you!

[oc1]

When you pay thirty bucks for a rod and reel combo you cannot expect too much.  Two to three outings in saltwater is probably about the average life expectancy.  Servicing the reel before the first use will help.  You will learn how it goes together before the corrosion starts to set in and you can grease all the screws.  I can't help on the particulars but hope you have the best of luck with them.  WD-40 is a decent solvent and cleaner but you need a proper reel oil.
-steve

[fishucsd]

see that tapped hole, next to the rotor nut -- was there a short, little screw in it !?!?
(prevents normal rotor operation from unscrewing the nut -- otherwise, nut must be reverse-threaded)

in a perfect world, reverse-threaded rotor nuts are notched for immediate recognition

                                OR

tapped hole(s) for retainer screw/cover indicate normal rotor nut


both those "rules" are frequently ignored in budget reels for cost-cutting,
but THEY wouldn't actually install & waste the screw if it's not needed

Hey Philaroman!! YES! there was a short screw, tiny little screw in the hole so they didn't skip out atleast on this one haha. i unscrewed it first before i attempted to open the brass nut last night. i should also probably not being doing this on the kitchen table but anyways

Actually, the nut is not reverse threaded. however there are two holes (picture attached) so is there a proper one to screw it back onto? as to prevent regular reeling in unscrewing the actual nut? THANK YOU

[Crow]

That Okuma is *similar to* (but not identical), to the reels I use on the beach. It's still "spitting rain", today, but, tomorrow, I'll try to shake loose enough time to do a "short" break-down on one, and post some pix ( I have to work outside, as my wife would go ballistic if I tore it down in the RV !!). They really are "bone simple" reels.....no frills, at all, and quite simple to work on. As Steve mentioned, they are "designed" to be a "limited use', or, "throw away" reel, but, with a bit of care , they will hang in there, quite a while.  rinsing / blowing the sand and salt off after each use is very important to ANY reel, but even more so on a "cheap" one.

[fishucsd]

Welcome to the Forum!
I would soak the nut overnight with a penatrating solution("Liquid Wrench" or something similar). As it's soaking, like Donnyboat said, take off the gear cover and remove either screw(s) or pin(s) in the shaft that hold an ossilation unit. The shaft should then slip out. A socket wrench(probably metric size socket)might then remove the nut. If it don't turn, try heat via a hair dryer.

Saltwater is a thread/screw/nut, ball bearing and bushing killer. Do you guys rinse your reels directly after fishing? Hint. Sand is really bad. If you get it apart, a thin coating of grease on everything is invaluable(traps sand and protects against corrosion).
This one is interesting, keep us updated.
My Son went to UCSD. Seems like 1/2 the college ready population of Fremont, Ca. goes there.

HI GFISH!! wow what a small world!! i'm from LA and you're so right haha i've met many of my friends in discussion and they all come from Fremont or SJ

I hope your son is doing well and also on this forum haha

Interesting tip, would i just smear on whatever reel solvent i get directly onto the brass nut? As i've been replying, a good socket and lube are musts.

Unfortunately, i don't believe we rinsed them directly after we came back . i did try to rinse them a couple of weeks ago but thats when i realized they were frozen! also i heard that maybe rinsing would drive the salt and sand deeper into the gears? is that true? Thank you and I HOPE TO SEE YOU AND YOUR SON OUT ON THE WATERS!!