D-A-M Quick 110N, a look inside of a partial rebuild

[festus]

Got this 110N with box, papers, a spare washer and spare bail spring for $29 shipped.  It was advertised as used, but it had either been taken care on the outside or used very little.  It has little paint loss, only on the underside where it isn't noticable.  It also had the original receipt when it was bought Apr. 22, 1978 for $24.97 from Gibson Discount Center.  However, it definitely needed serviced, it was so hard to turn the handle it wasn't ready to be fished.


Only real flaw I found was it's missing the safety ring which holds the drag washers in place to keep them from spilling when the drag knob is unscrewed.  Of course that's its only function as has nothing to do with the operation of the drag.



Very clean bail trip parts inside the rotor.  The last N series I posted was nasty in there, full of sand, grit, old oil and grease. The entire bail assembly was in good shape, snapping back very crisply, so I saw no need to take it apart.




The handle pin was easily removed with a 3/32" punch and a rubber hammer.  


After removing the handle, the wavy washer on the crank shaft is removed.


Unscrewing and removing the crank nut.


This isn't a good picture, but there is a c-clip that's needed to be removed from the crank shaft so the drive gear and shaft can be taken off.


Now you can see it.


One more coppery washer removed from the shaft.


Cover is removed with a narrow flathead screwdriver.


This reel had too much grease, especially on the inside of the cover.


First look inside the housing.  Old candlewax-like grease was bogging it down.


Removing the pin from the slide and axle.  It's easily pulled by hand since there are no threads.



Removing the c-clip known as the safety clip on the schematic.


The schematic only shows one washer on the slide, but this one has two.


Removing the slide.


There's the second washer on the stud of the drive gear.



Every time I tear down a D-A-M Quick, I'm amazed at the quality of metal of the gears.


Removing the axle which is also composed of some very good metal.


Not that dirty on this side of the housing.  But the cover plate side was really nasty.


Using an 11mm socket to remove the right hand threaded hex nut that connects the rotor to the pinion.


Left to right: Rotor hex nut, spring washer, and the drive plate.


A look at the bottom of the rotor.  Again, clean enough, no need to disassemble anything. It only needs a couple drops of oil.


A look at the anti-reverse assembly and snap ring that fastens the ball bearing and pinion.


Removing the snap ring.



A look at the snap ring, spring washer, pinion washer, ball bearing, and pinion gear.  No problem separating the pinion from bearing.


I used lacquer thinner to clean the gears and ball bearing, Simple Green got rid of the remainder of the grease.


The ball bearing was lubed with a mixture of Ardent Reel Butter Grease and Ardent Reel Butter Oil.  


Ardent Reel Butter grease on the pinion and drive gear.


Coppery washer and c-clip reattached to the drive shaft secures the drive gear.


Reattaching the crank nut.


Resetting the washer on top of the crank nut.


This punch in my left hand aligns the rolled pin with the hole so it can be tapped softly back into place on the right side with a rubber hammer.


Handle has been reattached, time to put the handle knob back.


Drive gear lubed and back into place along with the washer/spacer on the stud.


Slide back in place, here's the second washer that needs reattached.


C-clip put back into place, needs coaxed into the groove with a screwdriver.


Oiling the axle.


Slide and pin back into place.  It's time to fasten 'er up.



Of the D-A-M ultralight models 265, 110, and 110N, these 110N are my favorite for fishing.  I realize the 110 is a stronger reel.  But there's something about these 110N that feels better.  Maybe it's the quieter anti-reverse.  The bail wire on the 110N is thicker than the 110 and 265.  These 110N weigh 8.7 oz with no line, it might weigh a tad more than the other two models.  Got another 110N on a 5-1/2' light Berkley Cherrywood rod spooled with 8 lb mono that I use in a friend's pond for bluegill and largemouth. I'll spool this one with 6 lb. mono.

[Beachmaster]

Very nice tutorial there!  Why can't I find those kin of deals on ebay!?

[foakes]

Nice job, Chester!

Best, Fred

[Alto Mare]

Nicely done as usual Chester!
You got that reel for almost free... good deal!

Sal

[Midway Tommy]

Thanks for doing a step by step on the 110N, Chester! A lot has been written about them but now we can finally take a thorough look inside. Well done!

[mo65]

That's a sweet deal Chester...she's near mint! Great work.

[Balvar24]

Of the D-A-M ultralight models 265, 110, and 110N, these 110N are my favorite for fishing.  I realize the 110 is a stronger reel.  But there's something about these 110N that feels better.  Maybe it's the quieter anti-reverse.

I like everything about my 110n except the anti-reverse!  It's louder than my 265 and 110.  The clicks are so close together that it reminds me of one of those ratcheting screwdrivers with the big ball handles.

[happyhooker]

I don't know about y'all, but I always feel noticeably better when I see a reel body that's full of gloopey grease cleaned up by someone who knows what they're doing & put back the way it ought to be.

Thanks, festus, for my daily dose of "feel good".

Frank

[BocaSnook1]

Chester,

Thanks again for the great step by step tutorial. 

My friend found for me two weeks ago at the NC State Fairground - Flea Market in Raleigh a near mint Dam Quick 110.  Paint, internals all like new except for the Angle Lever on the bail.  This had a pronounced bend and would not allow the bail to function properly.  It must have been an extreme force that bent this lever.  Surprisingly no damage to the reel besides the bend in the angle lever. 

That is the second Dam Quick I have seen in the last two months with a bent Angle Lever.  Does anyone know what might cause this?  Or better yet the best way to straighten out the bent angle lever?

Thanks.

Tad

[foakes]

Generally, Tad --

Those levers can be brought back to straight with a Crescent wrench -- with tape on the inside of the jaws.

If it is too far gone -- I could send you one.

The bails often get tweaked -- which bends the angle lever. 

This is true on nearly any open-faced Spinner.

Best,

Fred

[BocaSnook1]

Fred,

Thank you.   I will follow your advice when I break down and service the reel in the next two weeks.

I have had DAM Quick reels since 1967 - the year I moved to Florida as a kid and bought a used Quick with a 9 foot Hurricane rod for surf casting (from the old Boca Tackle shop).  Since then I have acquired at least nine more - all highly reliable reels.

I had never encountered this bent angle lever situation before - but now in the last two months I have seen it twice.  Last month in Siler City, NC - Thrift store - another Quick reel in good condition - except it too had a very bent angle lever.

Tad

[handyandy]

nice tutorial I like the 110n and 220n I have as well. I agree with you I know they may not be quiet as strong as the 110 and 220 but the find I like the smoothness of the anti reverse better it's not as clunky and I just have better feel when I'm trying to tick the bottom with a finesse bait. Don't get me wrong I still like the older 110 and 220 as well, but I'm like you and just like the feel of N's a little better. When comparing the small reels my order of which I like the most would be the 265 microlite, 110n, then 110. I like them all really.

[thorhammer]

Chester, sweet job!


Tad, where are you? You practically have to drive by my house to get from fairgrounds to Siler City.


John

[Rancanfish]

I want to thank Festus for the pictorial process.  Was surprised I couldn't find another step by step like this.

Mine has some kind of problem, as yet undentified.

Hey can we sticky this one?

[basto]

Don't you just love those occilating arm to spool shaft pins that are not threaded.