alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Shimano Baitrunner 12000D Rebuild by Dale Matlock
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: Shimano Baitrunner 12000D Rebuild by Dale Matlock  (Read 25815 times)
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dalematlock
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« on: November 27, 2011, 07:13:26 AM »

First off, let me give a huge thanks to Alan Tani and all the members of this website! The wealth of knowledge that can be found here is just unreal. But I got to feeling guilty for taking advantage of all this knowledge and not contributing. So...This is my first rebuild post that I have ever done and my first time tearing down this reel and BigT's rebuild of the 6500 was a great reference for me, but there were a few good differences on this reel that can really throw you for a loop if your not paying attention. And yes...like BigT's post...you will need to clear your schedule for the afternoon and make sure you have several strong beverages on stand-by. Enjoy folks!!


The Patient, the Shimano Baitrunner 12000D.



First, we are gonna remove that spool




The retaining clip comes out easily.


Here is the drag stack...from right to left is how it should go back in.


The spool has a little crud in it...a quick wipe out and some thin coat of grease for added protection.


A little bit of Cal's Drag Grease in the drag stack housing.


A generous amount of cal's on the drag washer to fully impregenate the pores.


And the excess removed will leave you with a super smooth drag!!

Now to tackle the Baitrunner Lever. It comes off in 3 pieces.







You can see just how vulnerable this spot can be to salt and water intrusion! We'll fix that later  Wink "Don't lose that little washer there!"

Now to proceed further, the sideplate is recessed under the housing of the rotor (#13580), so you will need to remove the Rotor Nut (#714) and Rotor Nut retainer (#5799) and gently pull it away exposing the top half of the sideplate for removal as seen below.






The side plate removed.


Now I took off the left side ball bearing and out of curiosity took off the shield to see just how badly lubed this thing was so I would know what to expect from the other bearings. Now did I do this for every bearing? Heck No! This is where Alan Tani and his awesome bearing packers come into play...if you haven't bought these by now and you rebuild your own reels....man, get them now!!!


The bearing packer in all it's glory  Cool


Set aside these washers along with that bearing so you don't lose them.

Ok, like BigT's disclaimer: "This is where things can go horribly wrong! Stay calm, take a deep breath, and go slow and methodically. Oh, and grab another tasty beverage before you embark on the Baitrunner Mechanism"


Ever so carefully remove the Baitrunner Click Spring (#2963)



Next remove the 2 screws holding down the mechanism (#642 x2)


Carefully remove the mechanism, take note of the clutch pawl spring (#2605), BE CAREFUL that thing doesn't go flying off into the abyss!


Mechanism removed.

Next, we are gonna tackle the Main Shaft (#13576). This is where things are different from Big T's rebuild of the 6500. At this point, you have to remove the main shaft BEFORE the Drive Gear (#13585).


First remove the screw holding down the Oscillating Slider Retainer (#13590). Now this is the part I REALLY LOVE. Unlike the 6500 where you have to "C" clips to remove...on this the retainer flips up and rotates out and it is SO easy to remove and replace. Thank You Shimano!



 Grin


Now the main shaft should slide right out.


And you can safely set aside the Rotor for now.


Remove the oscillating slider (#13591)

NOW, if you are able to do this part now it will help you later!!! Take note of the ARROWS on the Drive gear(#13585) and on the Oscillating Gear (#13592). Take note of how they are lined up and jot a little picture down or something. These gears are like swiss watches and there is a timing involved. When I went to put my reel back together I noticed horrible binding up on the gears and couldn't figure it out and knew that these darn arrows had something to do with it. I eventually ended up going gear click by gear click until the reel turned butter smooth. How tedious! And when I got to that point I made a little picture of where the arrows were which I'll include later for you.



Remove the Drive Gear (#13585)


A shot of what's remaining still! Hang in there, your'e doing GREAT!



Remove the Oscillating Gear (#13592) and notice the Oscillating Gear Bushing (#13594) which simply slides out from the gear.


Remove the right bearing and put that ol' trusty bearing packer to work again!!


Remove the Clutch Spring (#13243) It's under a good bit of tension so be careful.



Remove the dial click (#13599) and screw


Remove the screw to the Baitrunner Pawl Guide (#13600)


Now you can wiggle out the Baitrunner Lever Shaft (#13595)


And then the Baitrunner Pawl Guide (#13600)

Moving on to the Dial Mechanism....


First, we are going to simply slide out the top Dial Retainer (#13223)



Remove the "C" clip from Free Spool Tension Shaft (#3043)


Then the Baitrunner Ratchet (#3033)


Then the spacer (#3034)



Undo the spring and remove the Baitrunner Pawl (#13598)


Now in this picture you will see Dial Retainer B (#13224) How you get to this is pretty easy when you first look at it it is rotated away from you underneath the dial mechanism. Simply get a dental tool or something small and point and just rotate it 180 degrees until it's on top just like you see in the picture and then just pull it out.





Then you can remove the rest of the dial mechanism and in the last picture there from left to right is how it should go back in.


WHEW, that wasn't so bad was it?! Undecided

Now, another disclaimer: The Roller Clutch Assembly (#5447): I DO NOT recommend disassembling the Roller Clutch Assembly as it is under tension by many small springs and roller bearings. A simple shot of carb cleaner a brush and compressed air should do you just fine. IF and a big IF, you are braver than me, knock yourself out and give it a go, but you better have your wits about you when you try and maintain all those springs and whatnot.


These screws are color coded. You want to remove the silver ones to remove the assembly. DO NOT remove the BLACK screws, they are what holds the assembly itself together. You will see in a later picture I actually took a sharpie and drew arrows to the black screws and wrote "No" next to them  Cheesy


Roller Clutch assembly slides off along with the Pinion Gear (#13583) and Ball Bearing (#13582)


Remove the Pinion Gear Bushing (#13584) and clean it up.


Remove the rubber Friction Ring (#7599)


With the exception of the bail you now have one disassembled Shimano Baitrunner 12000D!

For reassembly, I won't be as descriptive, but I will pop in little notes here and there of what I found to work best.


Some Evinrude Triple Guard for added protection  Smiley


Friction Ring


Pinion Gear Bushing


Installing the anti-reverse tension thingamajig (I did not see the part listed on the schematics)






All back together!


Free Spool Tension Shaft




Free Spool Tension Washer and then install the rest of the components in the order like I showed you before


The dial taken apart from left to right is how it goes back together.


Stick that dial in there and get ready to install the retainer rings.


slide on Retainer B, the one with the 3 small notches in it. Then rotate it down 180 degrees.


Retainer A slides right on top.


Next, lay the baitrunner pawl in there.



Then, install the spacer, Freespool Tension ratchet, and C clip.

The reason you do the baitrunner pawl first is so you can latch it to the ratchet as seen below...



Don't forget to attach that spring!


Baitrunner lever shaft


Baitrunner Pawl Guide


Dial Clicker


Clutch Spring

For this next part, remember how I told you there was a timing to these gears...Well...AFTER I went through the tedious process of going gear click by gear click...lo' and behold there is a freaking picture of the alignment right on the stupid schematics!! Don't I feel dumb!!  Roll Eyes


Install the right side bearing


Then the oscillating gear.


Then the oscillating slide, you kinda have to make sure it is to the rear here so there is room for the drive gear.


Then the drive gear.


Then loosely slide on the rotor. Don't tighten it down quite yet.


Then the main shaft.

Don't forget to make sure those arrows are lined up like the schematics so you don't have that horrible binding of the gears.


Then put on and rotate your oscillating slider retainer back on and screw it down.

Now here I found out that it helps to screw on the right side of the actual baitrunner lever which aligns the baitrunner lever shaft so you can easily install the baitrunner mechanism.


Install the right side of the Baitrunner lever.


Now the alignment should be good for you to reinstall the baitrunner mechanism, screw it down and don't forget to reattach your Baitrunner Click spring.


Install your washers.


Slide on the bearing.


Put on the left plate.


This picture here shows why we didn't tighten down the rotor quite yet. It was so we could get that left side plate on. Once it's on, and since you already installed the mainshaft, it's ok to tighten it down


Snug it iup.


Put the Baitrunner Lever back together, make sure you grease up this area nice and good as this is the main entry point I found for salt and water.

My camera was starting to die on me...so the next few pics are of the bail...but it's pretty straight forward and simple to do. If you get lost look at your schematics!!












I just coated the washers and metal surfaces with some grease and then oiled the line roller.



When it's all said and done here is the end result with hopefully no extra pieces! Hopefully this rebuild helps you out....and surely this is worth a Penn Wrench eh? Alan?  Grin

Cheers,

Dale


























































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Irish Jigger
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« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2011, 08:17:22 AM »

Brilliant tutorial Dale. Very clear pics.,will certainly help those like myself who shy away from Spinners. Thank's for sharing.
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #2 on: November 27, 2011, 08:55:49 AM »

Very nice tutorial, are you sure that it is your first rebuild? Undecided. Thanks for sharing!
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Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.
dalematlock
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« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2011, 09:17:57 AM »

It's my first rebuild of a spinning reel...I have always been too scared to dive into it and finally the winter blues were kicking in for me yesterday and I got bored while dreaming of warm, sunny beaches and summertime fishin'. It's my first tutorial as well. Believe me...I left out all the interesting parts on how I had to disassemble certain parts a million times and start over because I went in the wrong order or got things mixed up, lol!!!

But I have used this site plenty of times to rebuild my Avet EX Pro 80/2, Penn Int. 50VSW, and various Senators.

So, I figured due to how many times I have used this site for my personal gain and keeping my gear up to snuff why not pay it forward!  Wink

-Dale
« Last Edit: November 27, 2011, 09:20:33 AM by dalematlock » Logged
alantani
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« Reply #4 on: November 27, 2011, 09:37:58 AM »



When it's all said and done here is the end result with hopefully no extra pieces! Hopefully this rebuild helps you out....and surely this is worth a Penn Wrench eh? Alan?  Grin

Cheers,

Dale


indeed!  send me a pm with an address and i will get it out to you.  all of this is very much appreciated.  alan
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send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!
JasonF
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« Reply #5 on: June 11, 2012, 10:18:32 PM »

Well done!  I am new to servicing my reels but this gives me the confidence that I need to do the much needed service on my Baitrunner 12's.  Thanks!
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jigmaster flash
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« Reply #6 on: September 01, 2012, 05:08:35 PM »

dale can i ask about the main gear cog alignment........

there are 2 obvious arrows on the cog but what do these line up with? noticed there are two arrows on the oscillating gear.... is there a clue there?

(do the main gear cog arrows line up with the shaft when arrows on oscilating gear cog are in a certain position?)
« Last Edit: September 01, 2012, 05:17:16 PM by jigmaster flash » Logged
george.s
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« Reply #7 on: September 01, 2012, 05:29:29 PM »

dale can i ask about the main gear cog alignment........

there are 2 obvious arrows on the cog but what do these line up with? noticed there are two arrows on the oscillating gear.... is there a clue there?

(do the main gear cog arrows line up with the shaft when arrows on oscilating gear cog are in a certain position?)

G'day mate you have to line the two arrows on the main gear with the pin on the oscilating gear.http://www.shimanofish.com.au/media/fishing/techdocs/en/BTR12000D_v1_m56577569830685348.pdf
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johndtuttle
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« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2012, 03:33:46 PM »

Thx for that fine post.

No matter how you slice it, a Baitrunner is a lot of reel (and parts Smiley) for the money.

best
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lois
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« Reply #9 on: July 26, 2013, 02:46:58 PM »

oh my god, this is priceless. thank you Dale! first time doing one of these.
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swoffer
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« Reply #10 on: January 10, 2016, 06:29:49 PM »

oh my god, this is priceless. thank you Dale! first time doing one of these.

3 years later , I concur.
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Aaronr5178
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« Reply #11 on: October 22, 2017, 05:47:48 PM »

Hi, I know this is an old post.... but i cannot see the pictures Sad.

Can anyone help?

Cheers
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philaroman
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« Reply #12 on: October 22, 2017, 08:40:48 PM »

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=22453.msg249521#msg249521
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